I just spend 11K on a new Carrier Infinity Central Air and r-8 duct replacement. I see lots of water in the emergency drain pan and around the duck work connections. The unit doesn't cool well, and its humidity control (carrier makes it out to be the best thing since bread and butter) doesn't work (can't get the humidity below 55%). Funny, the techs come and make it ~70%, I want it at 50% or less! This was a ~2000.00 option and I want it to do the job it claims to do (I'm realizing it can't do it, and keeps the unit running therefore creating overwhelming amounts of water). Specific questions:

Should I see any water in the emergency drain pan?

Why are some of the vents (registers) leaking? Puddle of water leaking out of 3 vents.

Should I see any water (condensation) around the duct work, registers, plentum, etc in the attic?

Is this "dehumidifier option" in the carriers systems a joke?

Thanks,
S deRada

No water in secondary pan and none out the registers, none out the duct or plenums, you need to have a different service tech take a look at this system, the question I have is the primary drain, is it draining, is the air handler level, is something blocking the drain in the air handler, is there a trap on the drain?
A trap on the drain line keeps the air handler from sucking air back through drain into pan and drawing the condensate away from the drain , also check for a double trap in drain line, this could be a p-trap with a sag in the drain line forming another trap (2 traps) This causes an air lock keeping it from draining. Is this unit drawing air out of the attic into the return? Also duct sizing is very important to keep it from freezing up, which could drip past the primary pan and leak into duct and secondary pan. Mike
Let us know what you find out is your problem. Thank you...

Sounds like the ductwork was poorly insulated. If it's still under warranty, I'd get it taken care asap before you start seeing other issues.

55% humidity is perfectly normal, if you live in a humid climate (especially Florida). If you live, say in California, than that's a bit high.

Measure the temperature of the air coming from the ducts, and it should be from 52 to 58 to adequately cool the house (assuming it works right in every other way).

I want to add details to my original post (question) as I see some helpful answers that warrant details from me:

A top of the line Carrier Infinity System (temp and humidity controls and PURON refrigerant) was installed 6 days ago along with the entire duct work in my house. I replaced and old Ruud unit which worked 1000 times better than this one. They also replaced the main drain which does have a P-trap and emergency drain lines. They basically replaced everything but the refrigerant lines which now concerns me because I had a FREON based AC before. Everything concerns me now. I'm so unhappy with this unit. The amounts of condensation are unbelievable, there is water everywhere, the entire unit sweats, the plenum, the couplings, the connections to the duct work, everything! I checked about 10 other units (one of the Carrier) and I did not see a drop of water anywhere, a couple had a minor amount where the regrigerant line entered the furnace.

I live in hot-humid Southern Lousiana (New Orleans Area).
2200sq.ft. house with a 4-ton AC split unit (variable speed blower/furnace in attic, and 2-stage compressor).
The 55% humidity is comfortable, but we like 50% or less because we've read lots of literature that recommends 50 or less to prevent mold, spores, dust-mites, etc. I run a $200.00 dehumidifier that does the job pretty well. The dealer told me I wouldn't need it anymore, wrong!

They asked me to turn off the system overnight so they could re-mastic everything and they came yesterday to fix the duct work, it was strapped pittifully. They ask me to keep the unit off until the mastic dried, they said about 3 hours, but it was so wet in the seams between furnace and plenum, it took about 10 to dry fully. I finally turned it on last night about 10pm, set it to 70 (hold) and went to bed. My wife woke up hot and with a headache, I woke up and it felt hot and humid. I looked at the control and I saw: 78 outside, 76 inside, and still set to 70 degrees. The status showed the unit was running in "low stage". What a ridiculous thing with a 6 degree differential. I think the compressor/condenser outside shut off again (it has done so 3 times already since they installed it). My little $60.00 window unit (Katrina saver) kept us more comfortable at night than this. I so much regret getting rid of my old one, it was old, rusty, no heater, leaking into the emergency pan, but not sweating like this, but it worked just fine.

The dealer has tried to fix it, really, I'm sure they don't want to keep coming to my house. I've had a Carrier installed in my old house ~12 years ago and never had to call for service, I checked it this weekend, and it is still running perfectly without a single drop of water -sweat. I just faxed a letter to the dealer to take it back. I'm pretty convinced now that it is either a lemon, flawed by design or not appropriate for this area, or it is damaged. I haven't found anyone with an Infinity System in this area, I think I'm the guinea pig.

Any and all comments, answers, tips, are appreciated.
Sderada

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Is this unit drawing air out of the attic into the return?

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Interesting. I will check when I get home and let you know. See my extensive response earlier to other questions.

You say you have a variable furnace, this furnace has a DC motor in it that has dip switches on the control board to tell it how much air it needs to move , it sounds like it needs to move more air (running slow will cause a greater temperature differential and more sweat) Your installation instruction book will tell you about adjusting it. They provide two books one is installation and one is homeowners book, sounds like the controls are not set up properly ,
The best of equipment can be screwed up by the least qualified. Mike

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Originally Posted by acetc

You say you have a variable furnace, this furnace has a DC motor in it that has dip switches on the control board to tell it how much air it needs to move , it sounds like it needs to move more air (running slow will cause a greater temperature differential and more sweat) Your installation instruction book will tell you about adjusting it. They provide two books one is installation and one is homeowners book, sounds like the controls are not set up properly , Mike

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Mike, Wow, I think you may just be right on the money. The tech that was supposed to set the dip switches was a bigger joke than Carrier Infinity. The amount of BS coming out of his mouth was enough to regret dealing with this dealer ("I forgot to charge it but I overcharged the unit this time", "water in the emergency pan is normal" I almost lost it when he told me that). He's the one that installed the outside unit. Anyway, I wouldn't trust a bit what he did. I will speak to the owner about it. I already told him not to send that tech anymore. Can I do it? Sure, I have the manuals and a good brain, but the minute I open that box, they're going to say "I broke it".

I would not attempt to change the dip switches if I were you , read the INSTALLATION instructions and may be you can point it out to them but they should be the ones to make the changes so that they can't blame you. This furnace is not just a plug in and go like many furnaces and the installer HAS to read the book to set it up correct, By the way this equipment has been on the market for some time and is very good equipment if installed correctly,Mike
PS all Carrier Residential condensing units come precharged.

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Originally Posted by acetc

I would not attemp to change the dip switches if i were you , read the INSTALLATION instructions and may be you can point it out to them but they should be the ones to make the changes so that they can't blame you. This furnace is not just a plug in and go like many furnaces and the installer HAS to read the book to set it up correct, By the way this equipment has been on the market for some time and is very good equipment if installed correctly,Mike
PS all Carrier Residential condensing units come precharged.

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Yes, I know, I won't touch it, but I did read about them. Questions: What should the CFM be for a 4 ton unit in a 2200sf house? Any rule of thumb on that?I had a miserable night again, wife got up several times to turn the temp down from 72 to 70 to 68 (that should be cold and crip, but it is so muggy we can perceive the any cool) and now another 2 registers in the bedroom are dripping water, it's not just a drop or two, it's puddles. I got up in the attic and checked to answer a few of the questions you (all) had:

1) The duct work is R8 (highest insulation rating), so it's well insulated, but noticed that there are still registers that are not strapped tight and are leaking cold air.

2) Main drain pipe seems to be draining and has p-trap, but the clean out T does not have a cap. There's water in the p-trap and in the emergency p-trap drain as well (I heard this is proper to avoid sucking air from the attic).

3) I don't see any openings (holes) in the plenum that the unit would be sucking air from the attic.

4) I also noticed that the filter usage status is totally random, This morning it was showing 60% and the $90 media filter is only 4 days old. G it's going to cost me a fortune in filters!

There's so much water that everything is sweating, everything! Unit, duct work, plentum, connections, registers, you name it. I'm spending all my time at home mitigating damage to my property. I faxed the dealer to take the unit back. It's a lemon!

Thanks for answers and help.

The CFM per ton should be min. 350 to 400 ,so your system should be 1400 to 1600 CFM( I prefer 400 CFM per ton But Carrier says 350 CFM is suficient.) The clean out does not need a cap but should be on the leaving side of the trap. R-8 is good for insulation, what type of filter do you have? Ask your installing contractor if he has an air hood to check the total amount of air the system is moving.This is a true way of telling exactly how much air the system is moving. There is a clue here in the last post you said the filter usage status was at 60% after four days, could it be that the problem is in the return air ? Could it be to small, blocked, some how restricted,the air flow hood would reflect this. Mike