Hi all

I found this site as there are a few of you who have run into this problem but mine is slightly different. The ACG (ALT) (S) fuse keeps blowing in my civic e.g. hatch after a d16z6 swap. The swap was from carb to fuel injection and I kept the original tank (which had no internal fuel pum) and bought a new walbro 225 inline pump. I wired this as from the original fuel pump wires. 1st click is OK but when second click comes on the fuse blows. The cel light stays on permently with the oil light. Sounds like I have short somewere but I'm not sure what I can test??

Not sure your system, However if you insert light in fuse socket, will light up if a load or short present, if you remove wire from pump, and light goes out, it tells you no other load, and may be defective pump. Or draw too much for fuse, worse case, may have to use a relay. To make sure no increased load, on fuel pump circuit.
What are the 2 clicks? ON/Start?

Hi yss the click are ig1 and ig2. The third would crank the engine.I can hear relays clicking but am not sure how to test them? As you say insert light into the fuse holder, what do you mean by this?

Any 1:eek:

. Clean main ECM ground on thermostat housing.
. Check for codes.
. Run K-Test on ECM.
. Jump Main Relay Terminals 5 and 7, turn ignition to ON, and see if the fuel pump runs. If it blows the fuse now, the problem is with the fuel pump or wiring.

Hi

Were would the thermostathousing be found and what is a k test?

I'm sure that there is no power to the ecu as mu apexi rev/speed dose not fire up on ig1. I tested the positive feed on the pump on ig2 but got no volts. I will try the main relay and let you know.:) I cannot get no codes from the ecu as the check engine light dose not turn off after a few seconds??

The thermostat housing is where the radiator hose attaches (intake manifold). Look for 3-P brass connector.

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt.

Most likely, your ECM is bad.

Your right from before! The problem was with the fuel pump as I removed the positive feed from it and turned the key. The fuse didn't blow and the check engine light went off after 2 seconds, my apexi rev/speed came on as well. As its an after market fuel pump I think it has a bigger load on the system so would I need to put an extra relay for it? If so how would I do this?

Use the factory fuel pump wire to send a signal to a relay rated for the amperage on the inline pump. Pull a (correctly sized fused) wire from the battery + terminal to the relay > fuel pump. Insure pump / relay are grounded properly to avoid overloading circuits > pumps > relays. You might check that you have a good ground on your current set-up. Check the inline pump paper work / label for recommended wire size and fuse rating. If it is the same as the factory fuse size then I would suspect the pump you mounted is not grounded properly causing it to draw excessive amperage.

Lol I do electronics for a living and didn't relize how similar most of auto electrics is. :cool:

So being the relay I need to have pin 85 to ground, pin 87 to fuel pump, pin 86 to ignition switch + and pin 30 to the positive battery terminal with a inline fuse and maybe even a switch with the same ampage rateing? :D

Instead of 86 to ignition+, how about to fuel pump feed wire. No load except the relay.

So just swap the two wires around I take it?

After wiring in the relay it did not solve the problem and on after testing the relay I found the it had blown! This led me to bwlive that there was a short in the wiring somewere:mad: I then tested the fuel walbro fuel pump and it was fine. Turned out to be the wire rings for the pumps terminals were creating a short as I removed the plastic bits from the terminal :eek: wired up pump straight to main relay as noramll and it worked:cool: thanks for all the help people!!