Appreciate any insight. 1999 Honda Civic 1.6 SOHC 5sp with 142k on the motor. Decided to change belts (including timing), plugs, rotor... regular PM items. Picked up a Haynes manual (had a lot of fun getting the crank bolt off), button it back up and... no start.

Crank sprocket lined up on oil pump arrow and cam sprocket "up" with marks level to top of cylinder head. Good compression, fuel, and spark (spark based on pulling each wire and grounding with a dummy plug). All fuses checked. Distributor position looks like, when TDC, the rotor is at the tail-end of #1. No engine mods - all stock. No issues prior to this PM.

Note - On the block by the crank sprocket is a mark (like felt pen blue) which is about one tooth after the oil pump mark. On the head is a similar mark a little after TDC. These marks appear shifted together, so I assumed they were just a check to something at the factory.

Engine turns over no problem / have gas and good battery / but not even sputtering or a solid cough. CEL goes off after a few seconds as normal and you hear the relays kicking.

Thanks for your time.

1. Set the crankshaft so that the No. 1 piston is at top dead center (TDC). Align the groove on the teeth side of the timing belt drive pulley to the arrow pointer on the oil pump.

2. Align the TDC marks on the camshaft pulley with the cylinder head upper surface

Did you skip Step 1?

Appreciate the fast reply TXGM. I've read through many of your previous posts - great information. As to TDC and marks - it checks out. Matter of fact, I thought maybe I set the tensioner too tight and reworked the whole process - the marks were on. Buttoned it back up the second time and same problem. I'll double check the spark and compression this evening just to be sure I have not overlooked something. Even it I'm off one tooth on the cam, the crank is on (based upon the pointer mark on the plastic cover and the white notch on the pulley) so the motor should at least cough.

Are Honda's know to have (1) temperamental ignitions or (2) odd timing marks?

Drives me nuts... can do a small block blindfolded but the wife's Honda just doesn't like me.

Thanks.

The camshaft timing marks are very engine specific. For instance, some use the cylinder head upper surface, while others use the pointer on back cover.

It's best to place a mark (e.g. Whiteout or white paint) on each pulley and corresponding point on the side of the old timing belt, before removing. Then, remove old belt, transfer marks exactly to new belt, and reinstall with confidence.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ernie T

Appreciate any insight. 1999 Honda Civic 1.6 SOHC 5sp with 142k on the motor. Decided to change belts (including timing), plugs, rotor....regular PM items. Picked up a Haynes manual (had a lot of fun getting the crank bolt off), button it back up and ....no start.

Crank sprocket lined up on oil pump arrow and cam sprocket "up" with marks level to top of cylinder head. Good compression, fuel, and spark (spark based on pulling each wire and grounding with a dummy plug). All fuses checked. Distributor position looks like, when TDC, the rotor is at the tail-end of #1. No engine mods - all stock. No issues prior to this PM.

Note - On the block by the crank sprocket is a mark (like felt pen blue) which is about one tooth after the oil pump mark. On the head is a similar mark a little after TDC. These marks appear shifted together, so I assumed they were just a check to something at the factory.

Engine turns over no problem / have gas and good battery / but not even sputtering or a solid cough. CEL goes off after a few seconds as normal and you hear the relays kicking.

Thanks for your time.

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Take off your distributor cap and make sure the spring that completes the coil to cap circuit isn't missing and that the carbon button in the center of the cap is still there.

Follow-up. Thank you for the quick replies to my question - it's great to have folks willing to take time to help out.

The vehicle is running like a top and the change took care of the belt noise... you have to look at the tach to tell it's running. So what resolved the issue:

Cleaning the IAC valve and taking a second look at the distributor cap.

I did a quick cleaning of the cap terminals and tested with the meter... all was well. I neglected to test the sides of the terminal (where the spark hits) and found two terminals had a glazed coating on them. (Rule #1... just replace the stupid cap and rotor).

The Idle Air Control Valve... if stuck... can cause two main symptoms - either a no start or throttle surging. The IAC gets coated with gum/varnish and mine was very difficult to move - a few squirts of wd-40/toothbrush freed it up.

Logic - The IAC opens up wide on cold start to let additional air in... it was stuck closed... so you get fuel and spark but not enough air.

Again - thanks for your inputs.