In my basement I have an old shower stall that was installed by the former owner. The stall also has the air conditioner drainage hose directed through the bottom of shower stall and it drains into the shower drain. That is not my idea of sanitary! Also, there is no top (cover) over the stall. When you look up you are staring into the floor joist of the upper floor. Then there is the cement shower base that is cracked with a leaking drain pan.

First, I need to know how I can re-direct the air conditioner drainage hose from the shower over to the laundry room sink. To do the hose must go up and over. Since water doesn't usually travel uphill I need some suggestions here. It seems I remember hearing somewhere that Home Depot/Lowes may have a gadget that can do this. Has anyone ever heard of this?

Next, what is the best way to handle the cracked concrete base? It appears to be just a slab of concrete that was built up right on the cement floor with a drain added. I don't want to remove or change the drain. I would like to keep it intact. It appears to be the standard shower stall in size about 32". I want to simply replace the stall with a new stall that has a PVC base and just replace the fixtures. I thought all I would really need to do is to break up the concrete slab, replace it with the new base. I just have to make sure I can get a base that has the drain hole where I need it to be.

Lastly, can I put a cover over the stall. The bathroom has an exhaust fan. Would that be enough to keep steam from traveling up to the joist if I put a cover over the shower stall? Do stall tops come with the shower stalls or do I have to improvise here? If so, what are your suggestions?

I know this seems like a lot, but I really need the input. I can't afford to hire someone in for all this stuff so I have to learn how to get it done myself. I appreciate everyone's help and advice.

Thanks loads,

johndaniel1

The AC drain can be handled by a condensate pump. They are about $80 and most home stores sell them for this exact application. The concrete can be patched with a concrete caulk that comes in a tube like most caulk. You could also use concrete patching cement for less than $10. May even consider an epoxy paint with some sand added for traction. The stall can be boxed in by building a stud 2x4 frame around , up and over it. You could cover the top walls and ceiling with greenboard but I'd go with Hardibacker and ceramic tile to do it up nice.

Doing the repairs yourself is possible, but I would recommend getting a good How-to book, or getting online to get step-by step instructions on installing a shower pan.

Even with a PVC base, it is a must that you install a mortar pan underneath or you could destroy your house's foundation. You will need to put down a layer of mortar, then put down a membrane liner, cut to fit the stall, and then another layer of mortar, before installing the pvc base. You can also use a layer of sand that is sold to go under pvc shower pans. Home Depot and Lowe's should have these items. The membrane liner must extend up the sides of the shower, behind either the ceramic tiles or the pvc shower stall walls, if using a pre-fab system. You will also need to use a waterproof cementitious backer board behind the shower wall surface.

For the ceiling, I am not aware of a completely enclosed shower stall like what you are describing, but I would recommend using a good mildew/water resistant dry-wall, such as DensArmor with a skimcoat of joint compound over the surface to prevent mold growth. It will also protect your joists.

Redoing a bathroom is labor intensive, even just the shower, so I would see if a friend can help you out.

Oh, and there is a way to place the ac drain elsewhere. You need to install a pump. I don't know if your home has a sump pump (if it does, then direct the line there), but you may need an inline discharge pump or something similar to a bilge pump. I would recommend for changing drainage in a subsurface area, that you call in an expert. That shouldn't be an expensive task if you do the bathroom all on your own.

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

The AC drain can be handled by a condensate pump. They are about $80 and most home stores sell them for this exact application. The concrete can be patched with a concrete caulk that comes in a tube like most caulk. You could also use concrete patching cement for less than $10. May even consider an epoxy paint with some sand added for traction. The stall can be boxed in by building a stud 2x4 frame around , up and over it. You could cover the top walls and ceiling with greenboard but I'd go with Hardibacker and ceramic tile to do it up nice.

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If the ac doesn't produce a lot of drainage then a condensate pump is the way to go.

But the shower stall may need more than cement filler. Concrete's a notoriously bad subsurface for showers because it cracks and spalls. Mortar is better, particularly with sand on top of the liner. If it's old concrete, then it could crack again elsewhere, and you'd need to rip everything out to fix it again. Sorry to disagree on that one.

The bilge pump is actually called a condensate pump and anyone can install it without any knowledge of plumbing. No pro needed for that. A cracked pan is not going to destroy your homes foundation, water actually makes concrete harder. However, leaks may cause mold or mildew so it does need to be repaird. Replacing the entire pan is not necssary unless the repair caulk fails.

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

The bilge pump is actually called a condensate pump and anyone can install it without any knowledge of plumbing. No pro needed for that. A cracked pan is not going to destroy your homes foundation, water actually makes concrete harder. Howver, leaks may cause mold or mildew so it does need to be repaird. Replacing the entire pan is not necssary unless the repair caulk fails.

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Repair caulk almost always fails if more isn't done. I know that there are differences of opinion on this repair, but water getting into concrete cracks causes the cracks to grow, and if it was bad concrete in the first place, then it's going to continue to crack and need repair. I'd hate to say I haven't seen a messed up foundation because of water leaks, but I've seen it many times. Mortar's not that expensive, and is laid over the concrete subfloor. If the job takes a little longer and is a little more expensive at first, and he avoids the pain of making additional repairs when the concrete fails again, isn't that better?

And sorry about the pump thing. A bilge pump is usually found on a boat. I had a brain fart and couldn't come up with the word "condensate." It happens. Unfortunately for me, it happens all the time. Plumbing's not my thing. Construction, specifically construction defect, is what I deal with, so I tend to only see things after they go bad.

ballengerb1 and GoldieMae, you have both given me a lot to think about. I certainly would prefer to find a way to fix the cracked concrete without actually tearing everything up if I could make it look a littler newer. However, a PVC base would look so much nicer and I think easier to maintain.

It seems to me that patching the concrete would be only a temporary measure as you said probably more cracks would just show up in other places and it would be a never ending process. Unless I could just put another complete surface layer of mortar over the entire base. Would that work? Then all I would need to do is replace the drain pan? The main problem is the leaking cracked base. I would like the base repair to be as inexpensive as possible, but want the problem resolved for long term.

I like the idea of the 2x4 frame over the stall and using green board or hard backer board with ceramic tile. I thought green board was the way to go in bathrooms where there is dampness. Also, isn't it kind of difficult using thinset and ceramic tile overhead?

Both of your suggestions are good. I am going to purchase the condensate pump for sure, but my sump pump is on the opposite end and the laudry sink is closer.

I have been in my home for 10 and have never used the shower located in the basement because of the things I have mentioned. I would just like to get it to a usable condition.

I have definitely been reading the how-to books and watching the TV shows too, but sometimes it can get overwhelming!

Thanks again to you both. I will be checking into your suggestions.

johndaniel1

I appreciate Goldie's brain fart comment, I have had a few lately and they seem to get more frequent.
Greenboard used to be the standard for bathroom showers and tubs but not anymore. It can sag overhead and Hardibacker is much more rigid. Cement board is also a good option. Modified thinset is a bit more difficult overhead but not that bad. It sticks like glue and your tiles will not fall out like you might picture. Each tile gets a slight twist as you set it and they stick. You do need to monitor your ceiling tile for a few hours but once it is grouted you are water and steam tight. Good luck, Bob

Thanks you have all been so helpful. I have two major projects to undertake; replacing ceramic tile in the kitchen and redoing my basement shower stall. I believe that is enough to start with. But, I think I will use my head and get a proffessional to help me with that concrete base slab. Think I want the expert to check out how things were done in the first place since it does look like it may have been done by the former owner.

johndaniel1