Here’s what I want to do:

I am basically making my own power strip. I want to control each outlet with its own switch. I want to use an extension cord for my wiring by pulling out the wire. What do I run to each screw? Please see the pictures for the details. If the pictures are confusing, let me know or ask. If anything is wrong, please correct me.

I HAVE NEVER DONE ELECTRICAL WORK!!!!!
So I need a LOT of help.

Sorry the pics are so small. The 39.1KB limit is too small.

Thank you for all the help in advance.

Pictures got so small that you couldn't read the captions.

power cord run (custom) (custom)
Top right side with red wiring:
Power cord from inlet cord.

Top left side with black wiring:
Power going to the outlet to allow power to come on.

Bottom right side with red wiring:
One power cord comes in (green) to one side of the outlet. The other power cord (red) goes in past the outlets and up to the bottom screw on the switch. Then it comes back down to the other side of the outlet. This completes th circuit.

Left side by light green screw:
What do I run to this screw (light green)?

In general, outlets are wired up with white to the nickel plated screw, black to the brass screw, and green or bare to the green screw or frame. All connections must be in a UL approved box. The terminals may be labeled. Some outlets have holes you can just shove the wires in. #14 solid wire works best with them. I am not sure if it is available by the foot, but you could buy some 14-2 with ground NM and remove the jacket.

What all do you plan to plug into this? I have over a dozen devices feeding off my surge protector that has a 2 amp circuit breaker. If you are plugging in some things that draw much power, you may need to use heavier wire. If you are starting with a 15 amp circuit, the total needs to be less than 1200 watts. If a device give its power rating in amps, multiply that times 120. Most heavy duty extension cords are only 16 gauge, or at the most 14 gauge. You may want to buy some ''T'' wire. Any of several kinds should work for your project, T, TW, THHN, etc. Hardwares and home centers sell it by the foot in different colors, in both 14 and 12 gauge. Wire gauge is counterintuitive, the smaller the number, the bigger the wire. 0000 is very big wire. You may not see any at Ace or Lowe's.

The switches should be connected to the black wire. The black is hot, 110-120 volts above ground. The white carries the same current, but is grounded at the breaker box. The green or bare is also grounded and protects against shock if anything shorts out. By connecting the switch to the black, everything is grounded when the switch is off.

Best thing to do with pictures is to post them somewhere else and give a link, http://www.photolocker.net/images/La...lagretchen.jpg

I am going to use it for my computer. I will have my computer, monitor, printer, speakers, and accessories (all of witch are on their own switch).

I wanted to make this because I thought it would be neat.

I do not plan to use the boxes you have to use in a house. Instead I plan to make a custom wood box. The box will look like a wedge you use to keep a door open, just bigger.

If so, you may not need to worry about wire size. I doubt wooden boxes meet code. Be very careful with your grounding. Make sure the frame of the switches and outlets are tied to the ground wire. Most of the commercial power strips and surge protectors have the outlets too close together to accommodate the transformers many things come with.

Since I went to cable, with the monitor plugged into the computer outlet, my old Mac just uses an outlet for its self and one more for its printer. This desk is cord city with the PC, surge protector, UPS, monitor, printer, stereo, lamp, cable modem, router, and VOIP adapter. I also have cable in, and phone and ethernet out to the rest of the house.

I plan to use the 2 screws that come with the outlets/switches to screw them to the wood.

For grounding I am using the socket in the wall, but will it gound to the wood or though the cord to the wall. If it grounds to the wood, do I have to worry about touching my METAL screws?

How can I make the grounding work properly?

Do I also have to run a grounding wire up to the switches?

Dry wood is an insulator, and will not ground anything. The screws that come with outlets and switches are machine screws designed to screw into tapped holes in metal. The tapered wood screws you need should run less than $1 for the whole project. In picking out outlets, make sure they have a green screw in the frame and connect the ground wire to them. That way, the third prong, the frame, and all the screws holding it together will be grounded. I think the newer toggle switches used as wall switches have grounding screws for the frame now.

Although not code compliant, your outlet strip will be safe, if you carefully connect the incoming green or bare wire to the frame of all the switches and outlets. The frame is the metal part with the holes for holding them in place. Nobody should ever get shocked if they touch any of the screws except the brass ones inside holding the black wires.

So I have to ground the outlets and switches.

OVERVIEW
I will run the black wire to the switch and then to the outlet. The white wire will go directly to the outlet. Don't worry, my outlets are labeled. The green or bare wire will go to the green screw on my outlets and switches.

Does this sum up how to wire it?

Sounds good.

I am going to buy the wood from Home Depot where it is kept inside.

So I want dry wood, right? How can I be sure it is dry wood.

P.S.-what time zone are you in? I'm in Central Standard Time.

I am sure the wood from Home Depot will be fine. Wet wood feels cold and damp. The kerf will swell shut when you try to saw it. Whether it starts wet or dry, before its moisture content will depend on the humidity of the house.

As for my time zone, I won't say. I have offended some kooks on the net and some of them might actually hunt me down and kill me. More likely, they might simply complain to people I associate with about me.

The room is air conditioned, in a basement, and has a dehumidifier. I think I will be OK.

Thank you for all your help. :D ;) :) :cool: :rolleyes:

If I need more help, "I'll be back".(the terminator)

As an Electronics Engineer, I have to say that you should just skip the building and PURCHASE a commercially made SURGE SUPPESSOR! All you are doing is making a switch box that will not protect your computer equipment. Look for a surge suppressor that offers a warranty of up to $20,000 on the equipment that is connected to it. This class of suppressor typically starts at about twenty five bucks. It will protect against voltage spikes and power transients that would otherwise damage your equipment.

The warranty isn't all that great EXCEPT for the fact that if a company is willing to put their money where their mouth is, you can bet that they put the right parts into the surge suppressor. Don't waste your money on a cheap suppressor and expect it to work when you plug all of your equipment into it. Back when I was "paying my dues" as a technician, I repaired a substantial amount of equipment that was damaged by surges, but never once did I have to work on anything damaged by a surge that was plugged into a decent suppressor