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-   -   Replacing bathtub and shower fixtures (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=10750)

  • Jul 4, 2005, 01:47 PM
    sstewart
    Replacing bathtub and shower fixtures
    (1) When replacing bathtub "snout", shower controls etc.. Do you caulk around the fixtures or use plumbers puddy? The original installation had plumbers puddy.

    (2) Do you place the caulk so the fixtures "sqeeze" out some material or just inside the fixtures? Example: I've obtain some information that says you only need to caulk around the shower control flange just inside so water can't find its way into the hole in the tub/shower. Other say caulk around all devices and smooth out what sqeezes out.

    (3) What would the cause be for the tub to not hold water. It slowly drains even if the control arm is lifted to "seal" the drain. Also, how do you adjust the linkage arm if that is needed?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • Jul 6, 2005, 03:42 AM
    Flickit
    Plumber's putty...
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sstewart
    (1) When replacing bathtub "snout", shower controls etc.. Do you caulk around the fixtures or use plumbers puddy? The original installation had plumbers puddy.

    (2) Do you place the caulk so the fixtures "sqeeze" out some material or just inside the fixtures? Example: I've obtain some information that says you only need to caulk around the shower control flange just inside so water can't find its way into the hole in the tub/shower. Other say caulk around all devices and smooth out what sqeezes out.

    (3) What would the cause be for the tub to not hold water. It slowly drains even if the control arm is lifted up to "seal" the drain. Also, how do you adjust the linkage arm if that is needed?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    ... is easier to work with but I don't know of any that can be dispensed as can caulk. Either will do the job but make sure you choose a caulk made for bathroom use. This caulk is very sticky and difficult to clean up.
    2. Caulk around all devices and let the excess ooze out. This makes the best waterproof seal.
    3. The adjustment can usually be found by unscrewing the control arm fixture and pulling it away from the tub.
  • Jul 6, 2005, 06:49 AM
    speedball1
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sstewart
    (1) When replacing bathtub "snout", shower controls etc.. Do you caulk around the fixtures or use plumbers puddy? The original installation had plumbers puddy.

    (2) Do you place the caulk so the fixtures "sqeeze" out some material or just inside the fixtures? Example: I've obtain some information that says you only need to caulk around the shower control flange just inside so water can't find its way into the hole in the tub/shower. Other say caulk around all devices and smooth out what sqeezes out.

    (3) What would the cause be for the tub to not hold water. It slowly drains even if the control arm is lifted up to "seal" the drain. Also, how do you adjust the linkage arm if that is needed?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Good morning Stewart,

    (1) We caulk with Dap White Tub and Tile Caulk. The older installations used plumbers putty.

    (2) We grout the spout, chrome covers, etc. after they are installed. We run a ring of Dap around the installation and smooth it in with out finger and wipe the excess off with a damp cloth.

    (3) If you will remove the two chrome screws that secure the cover plate and lever on the tub waste and pull up you will be left holding the linkage and lift bucket, (small brass plug that seals the drain). The reason your tub leaks water is the lift bucket isn't dropping down far enough to make a seal. You will see threaded adjustments linking the lift bucket to the trip lever. Make SMALL ADJUSTMENTS lengthening the linkage until a seal is made and the tub holds water. I have a diagram but it's too large to attach to this post. If you give me your E-mail addy I'll send it down. Good luck Tom
  • Jul 6, 2005, 09:29 AM
    Flickit
    Is plumbers putty...
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by speedball1
    Good morning Stewart,

    (1) We caulk with Dap White Tub and Tile Caulk. The older installations used plumbers putty.

    (2) We grout the spout, chrome covers, ect. after they are installed. We run a ring of Dap around the installation and smooth it in with out finger and wipe the excess off with a damp cloth.

    (3) If you will remove the two chrome screws that secure the cover plate and lever on the tub waste and pull up you will be left holding the linkage and lift bucket, (small brass plug that seals the drain). The reason your tub leaks water is the lift bucket isn't dropping down far enough to make a seal. You will see threaded adjustments linking the lift bucket to the trip lever. Make SMALL ADJUSTMENTS lengthening the linkage untill a seal is made and the tub holds water. I have a diagram but it's too large to attach to this post. If you give me your E-mail addy I'll send it down. Good luck Tom

    ... OK otherwise? The reason I ask is because I have the worse luck with caulk (no artist here!) and had found the putty much easier to clean up afterwards.
  • Jul 6, 2005, 10:13 AM
    speedball1
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Flickit
    ...OK otherwise? The reason I ask is because I have the worse luck with caulk (no artist here!) and had found the putty much easier to clean up afterwards.

    We use Dap White Tub and Tile Caulk because it finishes off neat, fills any cracks, leaves a professional looking job and because it's water soluble and cleans up with a damp cloth. We haven't used putty to grout for over 40 years in my area. Cheers, Tom

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