Hello,

We recently bought an older (54 yrs) home with a septic system. The tank was replaced 14 years ago and has a PVC access pipe on top of it. This pipe was broken off in the union (am I using that term right? I'd call it a collar, but I'm not a plumber) set in the top of the tank before we bought the house (one of a number of things the sellers neglected to actually fix).

On our septic inspector's recommendation, I'm trying to repair/replace this pipe. I've dug out around the pipe to the point it meets the tank (thankfully only about 1' down). Unfortunately, because of the nature of the break I'm not sure how to proceed. Part of the pipe is still in the union, so I can't just insert a new, clean pipe.

http://ripp.com/img/Septic_access_pipe.jpg
1 - Broken septic access pipe, set in place (not attached).

http://ripp.com/img/Union_in_tank_top.jpg
2 - Union w/ broken pipe segment, set in septic tank's top.

http://ripp.com/img/Broken_pipe.jpg
3 - Upper part of broken pipe.

My apparent options are to A) Clean the union and broken pipe as best I can then try to "glue" them back together with PVC primer and solvent; or B) To try to chip out the portion of pipe that is still in the union and then insert a new pipe. I'm not really too confident in either option.

My understanding is that this pipe is used to visually inspect the tank, and provide access for a hose if necessary. It therefore doesn't have to be watertight. This makes me think option "A" might suffice, but I'm concerned about how strong the joint would be. I'm wary of option "B" because if I can't get all of the old pipe out of the union, then I'm stuck and can no longer do option "A".

Can you offer any recommendations on how to proceed?

Thank-you very much!
Michael

Option C: Replace the PVC pipe altogether

Since the tank is surely concrete, probably pre-cast, there must be a place/fitting/coupling/joint where the pvc pipe enters the tank. Dig down there and just replace the whole PVC pipe. Use Schedule 80 PVC for a stronger option for the future.

~aaron

Ps: I'm NOT a plumber, and this is just an idea. It's what I'd do though. It's always cheaper to do it right than do it again.

I'm going to go along with scriocco on this. This is not a union that I see. It's either a coupling or a male threaded adapter. Either way dig down and bare the connection. If it's threaded then unscrew it and replace with schedule #80. Good call scriocco! Tom

It looks to me like you are already down to the tank. Put a strap or chain wrench on the fitting and see if it unscrews. If not, you could try to pry it out. Once you have it out, you can identify what is was and replace it.

If the access isn't required by local code, you could bust the thing out of there and just put a cover over the hole. Many people have strong, but conflicting opinions on how often a septic tank should be pumped. I am not sure who to believe.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikeNJ

Can you offer any recommendations on how to proceed?

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You are actually very lucky in that the installer used a medium bodied clear glue in the installation instead of a hotter blue glue.

Make a few vertical saw cuts in the broken pieces of pipe inside the fitting and then chip them out with a chisel and hammer (they will come out very easily).

You can then square off the broken piece of pipe with a handsaw and reglue it into the fitting.

Use lots of purple primer to clean and soften up the cleaned up hub and then use a hot blue PVC glue to reglue the pipe into the fitting.

Thanks for all the great responses! It turned out that it was a coupling, and not a threaded adapter. I was able to "coax" the broken pipe segment out of the coupling with a screwdriver and chisel. It actually came quite easily once I managed to break it in one spot.

I squared and shortened the upper pipe segment with a hacksaw then cleaned everything as well as I could (it IS a septic tank, after all). Using purple primer, then pipe cement, socked it in nicely. I was especially proud that when all was done and the dirt shoveled back, the top of the pipe was perfectly flush with ground. No more tripping or lawnmower hazard (which I think broke the darn thing in the first place).

Thanks again for the assistance. This site, and the people on it, is/are great.