I just replaced my appliances in my kitchen and when installing the Fridge they had to plug it in to a different outlet from before. I didn't think it should share an outlet - but I looked at my circuit box and there doesn't seem to be a dedicated Fridge outlet. The electric range is on it's own circuit. The diswasher is separate. But it seems like everything else (except the light?) is on the same circuit. It's a small place. I have a med size micro, range hood light/fan, toaster oven and now the new Fridge all on one circuit. Does this seem OK? I'm probably being a little paranoid, but... The new Fridge is a 18 cu ft. and the old one was probably 14-15 cu ft. All thoughts are appreciated. ;)

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Originally Posted by LaurenM

I just replaced my appliances in my kitchen and when installing the Fridge they had to plug it in to a different outlet from before. I didn't think it should share an outlet - but I looked at my circuit box and there doesn't seem to be a dedicated Fridge outlet. The electric range is on it's own circuit. The diswasher is separate. But it seems like everything else (except the light?) is on the same circuit. It's a small place. I have a med size micro, range hood light/fan, toaster oven and now the new Fridge all on one circuit. Does this seem OK? I'm probably being a little paranoid, but... The new Fridge is a 18 cu ft. and the old one was probably 14-15 cu ft. All thoughts are appreciated. ;)

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... require a dedicated circuit for a fridge although common sense may. Check the fridge paperwork for the load (amps or watts) and repost. I think you will find a fridge is a featherweight when it comes to energy use, especially a new unit. The pigs are microwaves, electric ranges, electric skillets, etc.

If you read the book that came with the fridge, it plainly says it should have its own circuit. What else was on the circuit with the old fridge? If it is less heavily loaded, you might use an extension cord if it is the length of the cord that is the problem. Not any extension cord, but one of the short, heavy duty ones meant for air conditioners, #14 or heavier wire. Make sure it isn't subject to damage or accessible to children or pets.

Unfortunately, it seems many places have marginal wiring. Perhaps that is why the code keeps getting stricter. Paul Harvey discussed today how much more power many of the newer, huge TV's draw. Many of our electronic goodies don't draw that much power, but it all adds up.

My house was built in 1970. When I moved in in 1977, I added several circuits including outside outlets. Three of the circuits were separate ones for the fridge, freezer, and microwave. I think it is still adequate. Likely, the biggest problem is the 100 amp service coming in. I could convert to 200 amp like my neighbor did, but that wouldn't help much since the electric company refused to upgrade his service entry wiring. That house is oler than mine.

Another thing that scares me is the prevalence of 3 wire cord appliances with a 2 prong adapter plugged into a 3 prong outlet, defeating the important safety feature. I just realized that many of them may have been delivered and installed by non professionals that were making their living that way. Aruuuuuuuuuuuugh!

Thanks for the feedback. I have looked and looked through the booklet that came with the item - but nowhere does it say how many amps / watts. It says "It is recommended that a separate circuit serving only your refrigerator be provided" and "Do not use an extension cord". I don't believe I have any options as to putting it on its own line because apparently my condo doesn't have one dedicated. I just wanted to make sure that this isn't odd/dangerous. I also have a small-med size microwave in the kitchen and a toaster over.

If the circuit is really overloaded, it should trip the breaker before anything is damaged. Sometimes things still happen. The refrigerator will have a plate on it maybe inside the door, under the grill at the bottom, or near the power cord giving the power used. The booklet may cover several models.

I have found the sticker inside the door and it says it is 6.5 amps. The micro doesn't specify the amps. It does say 1.5kw. I don't know anything about kw. But, I am guessing that the micro doesn't pull more than 8 amps when running. It is btwn 700-1000 watt unit.

1.5kw x 1000watts/Kw / 115v = 13 amps. Even if it is #12 wire and a 20 amp breaker, it is over loaded. I think you would be better off with the fridge on a different circuit even if it means using a short, heavy extension cord. At least limit what you use at the same time. You can have a 100 amps of stuff plugged in the same circuit as long as you never turn too much on at once.