I am remodeling my bathroom and when I pulled the old tile up there was 3/4 inch plywood underneath. I didn't put the plywood back down and now the flange is about 1 inch above the tile. I have a slab floor and am unsure of why the flange was set high to start with. The area around the flange is really rough so I think it could have been reset for some reason in the beginning. My pipe is cast iron and I know I need to lower it. I can chip away some concrete around it to put an outside adapter if that's what you suggest. My concern is I am not sure how I can cut the cast iron pipe. You really can't get to it with anykinda of saw. Will a grinder work I have never worked with cast iron and have been told that its really hard to cut.Do you have any suggestion or any other option I can consider. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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Originally Posted by tom ferguson

I am remodeling my bathroom and when i pulled the old tile up there was 3/4 inch plywood underneath. I didn't put the plywood back down and now the flange is about 1 inch above the tile. I have a slab floor and am unsure of why the flange was set high to start with. The area around the flange is really rough so i think it could have been reset for some reason in the beginning. My pipe is cast iron and i know i need to lower it. I can chip away some concrete around it to put an outside adapter if thats what you suggest. My concern is I am not sure how i can cut the cast iron pipe. You really can't get to it with anykinda of saw. Will a grinder work i have never worked with cast iron and have been told that its really hard to cut.Do you have any suggestion or any other option i can consider. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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Good morning Tom,

When I'm faced with a cast iron flange that has to be lowered I take a small block of 2 X 4 and holding it against the pipe wall start to work it down by using a hammer and tapping the block all the way around the pipe. Make sure the greatest force is directed against the inside part of the flange next to the pipe wall and not the outside next to the slots. Remember, cast iron's brittle so tap lightly but firmly, don't try to beat it to death. Slowly tap your way around the flange until it's down against the floor line. You will not have to pour a new lead joint however, The lead seal will be loosened so you will have to take a set of inside and .outside caulking irons and recaulk the lead joint. You will be left with a few inches of 4" cast iron pipe exposed. I take a cresent wrench, and taking small bites "nibble" the pipe down to the joint. If you recaulk the lead joint and the joint is tight you can take the pipe down piece by piece until the toilet can be reset. A jagged edge left on the pipe's Ok since the throat of the bowl will extend below the flange line and nothing will catch on the pipe. Good luck, Tom