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-   -   Running power to a detached workshop (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=100159)

  • Jun 10, 2007, 03:48 PM
    freeware101
    Running power to a detached workshop
    With apologies for what might be a stupid question. I'm thinking or running power to my workshop (40 feet) and busy reading up on what is involved... I plan on doing the job myself as I'm a reasonably experienced handyman. I'm told I should run something like 8/3 2 feet underground although not much load will be involved... no heating, just a couple of lights and some sockets but with only one bench top power tool in use at any one time... max. 15 amps I reckon. I plan on running the line from a 30 amp double breaker on the house panel to a small sub panel in the workshop and probably incorporate a disconnect shut-off as well. I have way more than enough 14/3 cable for the whole job... here's the daft question... if I run 2 lengths of 14/3 together and connect each pair or wires together at each end, does this give me the equivalent of 7/3? 8/3 or even 10/3 cable is very expensive here in very rural Nova Scotia Canada! Lastly, I've seen references to "pigtails" being used for "multiple" cable hookups to breakers but I can't find anywhere that explains in simple terms what these are.
  • Jun 10, 2007, 06:44 PM
    Washington1
    I say do it the right way: Run 10-3 or 8-3 UF (protection needed if merging from ground on outside of structure) or 10 or 8 THWN; THW; or TW in conduit entire length of run. (*Note: I highly recommend running an equipment grounding condoctor in conduit [with the serving conductors] when running either THWN; THW; or TW--even if you do not have a current carrying path between two buildings). Note: relate to the CEC and local code for grounding requirements. Once you install your sub-panel (make sure you isolate the grounding conductors from the grounded conductors.
    **Sorry I didn't get detailed

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