Hello,

I had my basement renovated last year and the problem lies in the water pipe making loud humming and vibrating noise when I use turn on the hot water in the shower.

Here's how I reproduce the issue quite often in the shower.

1.) Turn on the shower and let it run (duration is irrelevant)
2.) Turn shower off
3.) Turn shower back on (to hot water), it starts to make that loud humming/vibrating noise.

Now if I flush the toilet, then the noise stops and the water pressure immediately increases. I should say that initially the water pressure is lower than normal.

Does anybody know what might be wrong? Thanks!

A loose washer, probably in the cold water shower valve, assuming a two handle shower valve. If you have a stop valve in the cold water line going to that bath, it could be there.

Thanks for the quick reply, hkstroud.
I have a single handle shower valve for both hot and cold water.

I have some pics if that helps:

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/9217/dscf0052zt7.jpg
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/1191/dscf0053bj0.jpg
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/759/dscf0054xh8.jpg
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/2488/dscf0055ky2.jpg
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/6254/dscf0056pz8.jpg

I'd also like to mention that after I flush the toilet and the noise stops, the water pressure goes back to low after maybe 30-45 seconds.

Does shower have any kind of temperature or pressure balancing feature? Suggest that you isolate that Pex pipe from metal stud, could cause leak 10 years from now. Could also be source of hum.

AFAIK, the shower does not have any kind of temperature/pressure balancing feature.

Fh:
You can post images directly under "go advanced".

The pipes don't look secure. They need to be supported. Get the noise started and try to stop the noise by holding the pipe. Then you'll know which pipe to secure. The pipe seems close to the metal stud.

While you ar securing the lines I suggest that you check any stop valve you may have on the cold water line for a loose washer. If that does not stop the water fluxation back flush the cold water line at the shower valve.

Quote:

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Get the noise started and try to stop the noise by holding the pipe.

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KISS just gave you the trick we use to track down noise and vibration only we use a light touch and attempt to track it back. The more intense the vibration the closer you are to the source. Good luck, Tom

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hkstroud

While you ar securing the lines I suggest that you check any stop valve you may have on the cold water line for a loose washer. If that does not stop the water fluxation back flush the cold water line at the shower valve.

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How would I check the stop valves for a loose washer?

The white pipe in the picture is the hot water pipe and it vibrates. But the noise is much louder than mere vibration; almost like a horn.

The way the white tubing is asking for it. Any pulsation is going to move it against the metal stud a large distance and eventually you'll end up with a leak.

I'd consider two things:
1. Use a grommet. The metal is going to abrade the tube. http://b-line.com/pdf/Flyers/BA172F.pdf
2. Use a copper riser and elbow and meet the white tube horizontal.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

The way the white tubing is asking for it. Any pulsation is going to move it against the metal stud a large distance and eventually you'll end up with a leak.

I'd consider two things:
1. Use a grommet. The metal is going to abrade the tube. http://b-line.com/pdf/Flyers/BA172F.pdf
2. Use a copper riser and elbow and meet the white tube horizontal.

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Thanks for the suggestion, appreciate it :) Temporarily I have put some foam around the pipe which is inhibiting it from getting in direct contact with the metal stud.

Remove bonnet or packing nut of stop valve, remove the stem and tighten the washer screw. Tighten even if it does not appear loose. If hum still exist I would cut copper of cold water line to shower valve, temporarily add short piece of hose to pipe with clamp, point hose into bucket, turn on hot water set shower diverter to shower head. This should flush out any debris in the shower valve which will probably be a solder form soldering copper joints. If you have the tools you may want to just cut PEX piping and reconnect. If you have any solder joints upstream from the stop valve, the problem could be solder in the stop valve.

I suspect you have solder in cold water side of shower valve. I suspect cold water side because volumn is affected by toilet. I suspect shower valve, because vibration is being transmitted to hot water piping.

Thanks, hkstroud. I would still do as you suggested if the cold water in my shower works absolutely fine (good pressure and no noise) and just happens with the hot water, correct?

To some extent this is a guessing game. Do one side, if that doesn't work do the other. I'm thinking cold because flushing the toilet causes a change. However the reduced water pressure in the cold side could change the water flow in the hot side if the shower valve is set mid range.

One of the basic problems could be that the pipes were not attached to any of the studs, thus they move freely. Just about any home improvement show focuses on this problem, as the "shaking and banging" that you hear, the problem can only be solved by removing either all the drywall, or locating the area the sound is coming from, then remove the drywall in that area. Attach pipe brackets and reattach drywall.
This is more so when the water is shut off rather then when running.

Ok thanks, I will try looking at the pipes then.

I tried tightening the washer screw, but it still happens. What's strange is even after I tighten it in either direction, the water flow and mixture remains the same.

Also, this only happens when the water comes out of the shower head. When I let the water flow from the shower faucet, it never makes any noise and water pressure is very good.
I doubt the shower head itself is faulty since it works perfect with cold water only.
Might it be something between the shower head pipe and the water diverter/stop valve?

Secure the copper line going to the shower in 2-3 places.

Ok, I just noticed that I completely forgot to mention this, but in the shower, the tub faucet works perfect. It never makes any sound and has consistent pressure. Only when I lift the "blocker" where the water then has to be diverted upwards to the upper "faucet". Now considering this new clue: Could something be wrong with my diverter? Tub faucet? Pipes? Thanks!