I have a gas powered electric hot water heater with an electric push button start.
Ever so often (more recently now even) the pilot has extinquished. I have to place the dial setting back to the pilot light position, and press the started button each morning to get it lit again, and then turn the dial to the desired heat setting. It usually starts right back up.

There's not any air travel or wind to blow this out as well.

Why is the pilot going out, and what do I have to do to fix it?

Does it have a thermocouple?

This will be a small probe that sits directly in the pilot flame when it is burning with a copper line running out to your reset box.

These do wear out, and if it is not working properly, will shut off the gas to the pilot.

It is a fairly cheap and not to difficult fix.

If you replace the thermocouple and still have a problem
: Look out near the gas meter. You should see a inverted tee, (tee turned upside down)with a pipe pointing down. This is a drip loop installed to collect moisture so that it won't get in your gas line. Over time this drip loop will fill up and needs to be drained. If it's not drained water will enter with the gas and put out the pilot light. Some drip loops have a petcock at the bottom so you can drain it. Others have a hard cap that must be remover with a wrench. Shut off the gas at the meter, open up the drip loop and drain it. If it has a hard cap, don't forget to wrap the threads with teflon tape before you put it back. When you turn the gas back on paint the threads with liquid soap and check for leaks,(bubbles). Hope this helps and thank you for rating my reply. TOM
Answer : Let me paste up a article I found on the web that you may find of interest.
Troubleshooting Gas Water Heaters
Knowing how to light the pilot is one key to living with a gas water heater; see the instructions on the tank. For safety, a gas heater has a thermocouple. This is thermoelectric device that impinges on the pilot flame and shuts off the gas if the pilot light goes out. The gas flame should be blue. If it's orange, adjust the shutter; if it's still orange, call for service.
Twice a year, inspect the flue assembly to be sure it's properly aligned and all its joints are sealed. Then check the flue by placing your hand near the draft diverter (with the burner on); air flowing out indicates an obstruction that should be removed. Every year or two, shut off the gas, remove the access panel, and clean the burner ports, using stiff wire or a needle. If you ever smell gas, get out of the house immediately and call the gas company.
There is no hot water.<<
Check for:
Unlit pilot light.
Pilot light won't keep burning.<<
Clogged burner
Defective thermocouple.
The gas is not coming out.<<
Remedies:
Carefully relight the pilot.
Make sure the gas controls are completely turned on. Then check the thermocouple and be sure it is firmly connected to the gas control unit and positioned near the pilot flame.
Call a qualified contractor.
Replace the thermocouple.
Call the Gas Company.
There isn't enough hot water.<<
Check for:
Incorrectly set thermostat.
Defective thermostat.
Exposed hot water pipes
Too small of a water tank
Clogged burner.
Sediment has formed in the tank.
Leaking hot water faucets.
Remedies:
Turn the thermostat higher.
Call a qualified contractor.
Insulate the hot water pipes.
Install a larger water tank.
Call a qualified contractor.
Turn off the gas and drain the tank.
Repair or replace the faucets.
The water heater is very noisy.<<
Check for:
Scale and sediments in the tank.
Remedy:
Turn off the gas and flush the tank.
The water is too hot.<<
Check for:
Wrong setting on thermostat.
Defective thermostat.
Blocked exhaust vent.
Remedies:
Reset the thermostat.
Call a qualified contractor.
Check the vent and clear it.
Water is leaking from the heater.<<
Check for:
Leak in the draincock.
Leaking safety valve.
Hole in the tank.
Leak in the plumbing connection.
Remedies:
Close it tightly or replace it.
Check the water temperature. If it's too hot, the thermostat may be broken. If the safety valve is defective, replace it.
Buy a new water heater.
Call a plumber. <<< Before you call a plumber flush,(not drain) your heater. Good luck, TOM

The newer water heaters have a thermocouple with a diode that is set at 195 degrees. Around the bottom of the heater is screens and openings for air. If these openings get dusted over the burn chamber burns hotter and activates the diode. It is under warranty, call the manufacturer to get the replacement thermocouple and get a new push button starter. They wear out and you are stuck with a new thermocouple and no way to light it.
Also, a flue that does not give a good draft will overheat the burn chamber. The burn chamber is a sealed type to protect against fire. If you work on this and are not licensed you may void the warranty. The actual repair takes a bit less than an hour.

The pilot light is being sucked out when the main burner flame extinguishes. This happens a lot with the new style closed combustion hot water heaters. If all the other trouble shooting measures have been done, gas is on, pilot will light easy every time and burns blues, you haven't a problem, you just need an automatic pilot light relighter, easy to install (5 min)and you will never have to relight your heater again unless the gas is turned off for any period. I have permanent solution for you.

David,

Have you received approval from anyone to be selling these "devices"? Each state will definitely require a separate approval policy/approval number and even then I doubt most states or manufacturers will approve of such a device as you are messing with gas systems and their safety devices..?

Further, when you sell these devices to consumers, are you also telling them that all manufacturers require that the combustion door gasket MUST be replaced once the combustion door is opened... seems that will be super important in terms of liability for you, huh?

Finally, are you aware that you cannot advertise your product on this website?

Back to you...

Mark

Hey Mark,
Thanks for your reply, I of course didn't know I broke a rule here. I'm new at this and I see you are not.
BUT I did not say anything about anyone disassembling the burner of a hot water heater, that would not be good advice for most people here I'm sure.

Have a nice day!

Hi David...

No, you didn't say anything about "disassembling the burner" (I didn't say you did), but you did say something about the "automatic pilot light relighter" and that at the least suggested to me that you need to gain access to the burner CHAMBER and for that you need to remove the closed combustion chamber door and therefore your customers should know that they need to change out the combustion door gasket... an absolute requirement by all water heater manufacturers with the new closed combustion chambers that I know of... ;) Your product does go inside...or does it go outside the burner chamber???

Finally, have you gotten any approval for this device/product from anyone? I'm just thinking of the huge liability if something goes wrong is all and wondering how you are getting around that?

Finally, I guess I just don't understand your product as I have been repairing water heaters for over 30 years and the issue is almost never anything to do with the pilot going out unless there is 1) poor makeup air (via clogged filters), 2) a defective thermocouple issue, 3) a clogged flue pipe, 4) gas valve issue, or the flame/vapor sensor locks the system out and I just can't see how a "relighter" can be of any real help in 99.5% of these cases.

I am not trying to diss or hurt your product or sales of your product, but I'd like to discuss more if you have time, OK?

Thanks...

Mark

Hi David and welcome to The Plumbing Page on AMHD.
You piggybacked on a 3 year old dead thread Before you post look in the upper left hand corner for the date.. Thanks Tom