Have you ever wondered what it really means for your aquarium to be "cycled"?

This is referring to natures Nitrogen Cycle.
Here is a quick break down for a better understanding:

The Nitrogen Cycle is natures way of purifying itself.
It is the process in which nature creates beneficial bacteria to break down waste.
Just as in nature, an aquarium environment needs to develop a Nitrogen Cycle as well.
This cycle will be what converts the toxic fish waste (fish excreta, urine, and old food) into a non toxic form and is what will keep your aquarium environment clean and healthy.
This a lengthy process and takes much patience.

Just What Does The Nitrogen Cycle Do Inside an Aquarium Environment?

The Nitrogen Cycle has 3 major steps inside an aquarium environment.
When testing the Nitrogen cycle with water test kits, we are reading the byproducts of the Nitrogen Cycle.
These byproducts are ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

Step #1: Ammonia (the byproduct of fish waste)
Fish excreta, urine, and old food pollute aquarium water. The decaying process of this waste creates ammonia which is very toxic to fish.

Step #2: Nitrite (the byproduct of Nitrosomonas Bacteria)
Nature creates a beneficial bacteria called Nitrosomonas Bacteria to break down the ammonia. The converted byproduct of this bacteria is called Nitrite which is still toxic to fish.

Step #3: Nitrate (the byproduct of Nitrobacter Bacteria)
Nature creates a beneficial bacteria called Nitrobacter Bacteria to break down the nitrite. The converted byproduct of this bacteria is called Nitrate which is not toxic to fish if kept at low levels.

In nature, Nitrate byproducts happen to be a food source for plants and algae.
In an aquarium environment, we would not be able to keep enough plants to consume all the nitrate; therefor, we preform partial water changes to remove this byproduct before it reaches toxic levels.

So, the "cycle" moves like this:
fish waste = ammonia (toxic to fish)
Nitrosomonas Bacteria = nitrite (toxic to fish)
Nitrobacter Bacteria = nitrate (not toxic to fish if maintained at low levels)
water change (to remove nitrate)

A "cycled" aquarium should read:
ammonia: 0ppm
nitrite: 0ppm
nitrate: ideal range .1ppm - 40ppm ,
Warning: nitrate levels should never exceed 75ppm - Exceeding this level is toxic to fish.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AKaeTrue

Have you ever wondered what it really means for your aquarium to be "cycled"?

This is referring to natures Nitrogen Cycle.
Here is a quick break down for a better understanding:

The Nitrogen Cycle is natures way of purifying itself.
It is the process in which nature creates beneficial bacteria to break down waste.
Just as in nature, an aquarium environment needs to develop a Nitrogen Cycle as well.
This cycle will be what converts the toxic fish waste (fish excreta, urine, and old food) into a non toxic form and is what will keep your aquarium environment clean and healthy.
This a lengthy process and takes much patience.

Just What Does The Nitrogen Cycle Do Inside an Aquarium Environment?

The Nitrogen Cycle has 3 major steps inside an aquarium environment.
When testing the Nitrogen cycle with water test kits, we are reading the byproducts of the Nitrogen Cycle.
These byproducts are ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

Step #1: Ammonia (the byproduct of fish waste)
Fish excreta, urine, and old food pollute aquarium water. The decaying process of this waste creates ammonia which is very toxic to fish.

Step #2: Nitrite (the byproduct of Nitrosomonas Bacteria)
Nature creates a beneficial bacteria called Nitrosomonas Bacteria to break down the ammonia. The converted byproduct of this bacteria is called Nitrite which is still toxic to fish.

Step #3: Nitrate (the byproduct of Nitrobacter Bacteria)
Nature creates a beneficial bacteria called Nitrobacter Bacteria to break down the nitrite. The converted byproduct of this bacteria is called Nitrate which is not toxic to fish if kept at low levels.

In nature, Nitrate byproducts happen to be a food source for plants and algae.
In an aquarium environment, we would not be able to keep enough plants to consume all the nitrate; therefor, we preform partial water changes to remove this byproduct before it reaches toxic levels.

So, the "cycle" moves like this:
fish waste = ammonia (toxic to fish)
Nitrosomonas Bacteria = nitrite (toxic to fish)
Nitrobacter Bacteria = nitrate (not toxic to fish if maintained at low levels)
water change (to remove nitrate)

A "cycled" aquarium should read:
ammonia: 0ppm
nitrite: 0ppm
nitrate: ideal range .1ppm - 40ppm ,
Warning: nitrate levels should never exceed 75ppm - Exceeding this level is toxic to fish.

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How do you get things that measure nitrate levels??

Aquarium water testing kits - they are sold at pet/fish stores.

I have a 30l aquarium with an intank filter/pump with venturi fiiting for airieation with heater and single tube for light. I put several elodea in and a few broadleaf plant's in (not sure which) I left tank for about 4 days then I introduced 6 guppies into tank. I was doing daily water changes for a week or so but then wasn't about for 3 days when I returned 4 guppies had died. I immediately did a large water change but unfortunately another died that evening. I continued doing a lot of small water changes spread over the day for next few days but sadly found the last one dead this morning.
Now I'm guessing after reading up that tank hadn't had chance to cycle yet... but what I wanted to know was do I leave tank and water as it is now to continue cycling? Or do I clean it all out and try starting from scratch?

Ok this one I can answer because I did the same thing to my daughters guppies. You changed the water too much. Let you tank cycle for 72 hours before introducing any fish and then only one or two at a time. My pet store told me to wait at least 48 hours between fish. And to only do a 10% water change once a week. And 30 to 50% once a month. I haven't killed any more fish.

The problem I am running in to is that the Nitrite and Nitrate levs are way to high. Now I checked the ammonia lev and that is in the good area for the fish. So the only thing I can think of is that I have some major levs of the By products of the Nitrosomonas Bacteria, and Nitrobacter Bacteria.

So from what I am reading here I should probably do a 20-30% water change in the tank. And since it is a 10g tank. I will be taking out around 3gals of the water then.

The question I have here is, how long should I wait to test the water again after I do the water exchange?

Also would getting some live plants in the tank help maintain a lower lev of the nitrite, and nitrate as well?

Just to give a little insite to what I am running is a bio-wheel, and the whisper filter that came with the tank.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DocFisher

The problem I am running in to is that the Nitrite and Nitrate levs are way to high. Now I checked the ammonia lev and that is in the good area for the fish. So the only thing I can think of is that I have some major levs of the By products of the Nitrosomonas Bacteria, and Nitrobacter Bacteria.

So from what I am reading here I should probly do a 20-30% water change in the tank. And since it is a 10g tank. I will be taking out around 3gals of the water then.

The question I have here is, how long should I wait to test the water again after I do the water exchange?

Also would getting some live plants in the tank help maintain a lower lev of the nitrite, and nitrate as well?

Just to give a little insite to what I am running is a bio-wheel, and the whisper filter that came with the tank.

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I would wait probably a day or two, but that's just an educated guess. As long as you're not draining out the tank (thank goodness), there shouldn't be a problem.

Plants are great for maintaining water quality, but you have to maintain the plants themselves as well or else they might do more harm than good. Dead plants and leaves will rot. For a small aquarium, try anubias, java fern, or commercially available moss. Those are the hardiest and most low-maintenance, and they won't outgrow your tank.

The cycling of water tank is too much important, because if after a few day the amount of ammonia get increased in water tank. So water tank get cycled at a regular base maintained. To insure the status of water purity you can use water testing kit available at pet stores.