The problem I'm having is I'm installing a new toilet. Im also raised the floor 1/4" and have new tile down. i installed the new toilet flange to the soil pipe and then the toilet. The problem is when you flush it leaks (i can see the leak from downstairs) from where the toilet flange goes over the soil pipe. I used the primer and cement but im guessing that i didnt push the flange down far enough cause when i put the flange on about 1/2" down I could see the top of the soil pipe. The flange was screwed and flush with the new tile. Im wandering if I have to cut around the new tile and 1/4" plywood and seal the flange directly to the subfloor where it was before. Then if I do that how do I get the toilet flush with flange. Or could I just buy a wax ring with a funnel and make sure it goes down further then the soilpipe.

Thanks for any info

If we're talking about a PVC glue on flange it isn't going to be that easy to pull and reset it. You will have to cut out the old flange, toss it and then extent the PVC pipe up even with the floor line. This would mean opening up the area enough to cut the flangec out. Once you've glued PVC it melts the plastic and makes it all one piece. A better idea would be to pull the toilet, dry off the glue joint and clean it with primer and run some PVC cement around the flange glue joint and hope to patch the leak. Then use the wax ring with a funnel. Let me know how you make out. Hope this helps. Tom

When you say clean the glue joint, do you mean inside the flange where the soil pipe and flange are connected?

I have a 3" soil pipe and i would feel alot better if i could get a flange to fit inside but at the hardware store they only had 4"pipes to fit over the soil pipe.

The guys at the hardware store sold you a 4" flange knowing you had a 3" pipe to put it on? First, is the soil pipe PVC? Can you break the present glue joint and remove that 4" flange? Now go to any plumbing shop and ask to purchase a 3" closet flange. The throat of the flange will fit snug over the pip. Clean the pipe up if there's glue left on it and prime both flange and pipe and apply glue to both. Be certain you get it set right. With a glue joint you won't get a second chance. Let me know. Tom

Yes and its pvc, I was probably my fault because I went to home depot and I should have went to a plumbing store. Well the only way I think I can get the flange off is if I go downstairs and take a screwdrive and hammer and knock it up, what's the best way to clean the glue.

To remove PVC cement from a pipe I use a knife to scrap it off and plumbers sandcloth to smooth the pipe. Since PVC fittings are tight fitting and the fitting is tapered a bit, it's important to remove all the old glue before you attempt to glue in a new fitting. Sometimes the only way to remove a glued in fitting is to cut the hub of the fitting down to the pipe and then peel it off with a wood chisel. Stay in touch, Tom

My issue is with extending the mounting flange mounted on the drain pipe (cast iron) to raise the toilet mounting flange about 1 1/2" to accommodate a raised floor. The original (PVC) mounting flange apparently is cemented onto the cast iron pipe. I have tried double wax seals without success. How do I remove the flange and extend this? Is there a longer PVC flange mount available if I can get the old one off the cast iron soil pipe?

I removed the toilet today and found the problem I think, the glue joint at the pvc flange and soil pipe, the soil pipe has a little chip and I think this is where it is leaking to downstairs. I'm going to try and get a wax seal with a funnel and extend it beyond this point if this doesn't work I'm going to call a plumber and have him extend the pipe. I will know tonight.

If you've installed a 4" flange on a 3" pipe you're just asking for a leak. Yes. There is a flange with a longer piece that fits over the stubup. Ask for a deep flange. That will give you a inch or so more to go down over the pipe.
Sometimes the only way to remove a glued in fitting is to cut the hub of the fitting down to the pipe and then peel it off with a wood chisel. You won't have to hassle extending the pipe if you use a deep flange. Keep me in the loop. Tom

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Originally Posted by rdwatson

My issue is with extending the mounting flange mounted on the drain pipe (cast iron) to raise the toilet mounting flange about 1 1/2" to accomodate a raised floor. The original (PVC) mounting flange apparently is cemented onto the cast iron pipe. I have tried double wax seals without success. How do I remove the flange and extend this? Is there a longer PVC flange mount available if I can get the old one off of the cast iron soil pipe?

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To remove the old flange you may need a hammer, chisel, wire brush, scrapers, sand paper, time, and elbow grease. A torch might reduce the work. Once it is off and cleaned up, try a short length of 4'' pipe with a bell end. Glue the bell over the end of the iron pipe. You might even run a bead of caulk around the end of the iron pipe from the inside. Then glue on a flange at the right height. The belled pipe may be hard to find. You may want to look in the electrical department.

Originally Posted by rdwatson---My issue is with extending the mounting flange mounted on the drain pipe (cast iron) to raise the toilet mounting flange about 1 1/2" to accomodate a raised floor. The original (PVC) mounting flange apparently is cemented onto the cast iron pipe.---

I have to apologize. I missed the part about the closet bend,(drain pipe) being cast iron and thought both flange and drain pipe were PVC.
I'll never understand why a licensed plumber would install a PVC closet flange onto a cast iron pipe. You don't glue PVC to cast iron. It won't stick. You pour and caulk a lead joint. And even then it's "iffy". If you don't pour water on the joint as soon as it's poured it will burn through the PVC. Let's put this job to bed right now! If the soil pipe is indeed 3" cast iron and you have raised your floor the only way to resolve this is to purchase a 3" cast iron deep flange, ( a deep flange is made to connect to a short stub up. It has a much longer hub extending downward) and pour a lead and okum joint. Case closed! You won't have to hassle extending the cast iron soil pipe and the job will be done right. Again, I apologize for not picking up on this, so if I've missed anything else now's the time to tell me. Red faced and waiting for your reply. Tom

I have applied the new flange and installed a wax ring with a funnel and at the moment all appears that it is not leaking downstairs. I appreciate all your help, I will be putting the bowl on this afternoon.

Thank you

I had to move my toilet about 7 inches over because it was too close to a wall. I have rerun the drain pipes using a Y, but even with connecting the Y as close as possible to the 90 that goes up and with using a standard offset flange, I'm afraid the center of the toilet drain is still around an inch too close to the wall. I am wondering if anyone knows of another type of offset that might allow me to shift it an inch further from the wall. Someone thought they had seen one that was more oval shaped and had more flexibility but I haven't found one so far.

I am tearing out the 2X6 T&G flooring in my bathroom and installing a 3/4" plywood floor so I can lay tile. then I will cover it with cement backer board and then the tile. but the problem is that the toilet flange will now be about 1/2" higher than the tile floor. The toilet plumbing and flange is cast iron.

Is there an easy way to reduce the height?
Are there toilets that will accommodate this?
Or should I just instal and extra layer of plywood to even the height?

Thanks,
Rob

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Originally Posted by inafix2525

I had to move my toilet about 7 inches over because it was too close to a wall. I have rerun the drain pipes using a Y, but even with connecting the Y as close as possible to the 90 that goes up and with using a standard offset flange, I'm afraid the center of the toilet drain is still around an inch too close to the wall. I am wondering if anyone knows of another type of offset that might allow me to shift it an inch further from the wall. Someone thought they had seen one that was more oval shaped and had more flexibility but I haven't found one so far.

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You failed to mention the dimensions of the off set flange you're going to use.
Without extensive repiping a off set flange is the best way to move your toilet over 1". In the meantime you might want to check out; http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/b...nge_offset.htm
Good luck, Tom

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Originally Posted by gosick1972

I am tearing out the 2X6 T&G flooring in my bathroom and installing a 3/4" plywood floor so I can lay tile. then I will cover it with cement backer board and then the tile. but the problem is that the toilet flange will now be about 1/2" higher than the tile floor. The toilet plumbing and flange is cast iron.

Is there an easy way to reduce the height?
Are there toilets that will accomodate this?
Or should I just instal and extra layer of plywood to even the height?

Thanks,
Rob

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Hey Rob,
You've reached a old timey plumber that broke in on cast iron and lead and oakum joints.
First, take a small block of wood and tap around the inside of the flange until it's level with your new tile. Go easy with the hammer, cast iron's brittle. Since you have disturbed the lead joint you will have to recaulk the joint. If you haven't any caulking irons, (and who does?) just take a big old screwdriver and grind off the edge until you have a blount edge. Now take the screwdriver and tap around the inside and then the outside of the lead joint. Again, not to heavy on the muscle, you're recalking a lead joint, not driving a nail. You are now left with a pipe that sticks up higher then the flange. If the pipe's cast iron, what I do is to take a crescent wrench and make the jaws so they just fit over the pipe and nibble, bit by bit, SMALL PIECE by PIECE down to the level of the flange. Don't try to take big bites. Again, don't worry about the jagged edges of the cast iron. The horn of the bowl will extend below when you set the toilet. If you have loosened the flange a bit go over the lead joint and caulk it again. It wants to be tight to the pipe. That's what holds the bowl to the floor. Purchase a small tube of Dap Tub and Tile Caulk and after you set the toilet and test it out run a bead of white caulk around the floor line and smooth it out with a damp cloth. That will give your job a professional look and promote you to plumber first grade. Hope this helped and good luck. Tom