A row of outlets in my kitchen just stopped working one day. One of them is a gfci. There are 2 other outlets and 2 lights (light switches) on the wall that don't work as well. I checked all my fuses and other gfci in the house. All of them are good. On the gfci that doesn't work, I can't even push in the test button and when I hit reset nothing happens (test doesn't pop out). Do you think I just need to replace the gfci or any idea what the problem might be?

GFCI' are fairly delicate "instruments". They can be damaged by power surges, water and other gremlins. That said, they serve a good purpose and work as expected. Pull the GFCI out and first look for loose wires. Then see if there are wires attached to the LOAD side. Check for 120V at the line terminals. If you have 120V at the line and 0 at the load, replace the GFCI-$15, and see if that doesn't fix it. Make sure to tag the wires.

I pulled my gfci out of the wall and all that is connected is 1 white, 1 black and a ground. Does this mean my gfci is not running in circuit with the other outlets on the wall? If so what do you think is going on beings that none of them work. There are 2 separate outlets one of them has a double light switch on it that controls 2 lights above my countertop. All of these are not working right now

ACTUALLY... I was wrong. I just took a better look at my gfci and there IS 2 black and 2 white wires connected. BUT the white wire that connects in the back, looks like it has some sort of syrup looking stuff on it. Sorry for the poor description but it is the best way I can think to describe it. And the plastic area the white wire goes in too is melted. I would have to think this is where my problem is coming from. Any idea what may have caused this? Will replacing my gfci be the answer? Is the melted area and other substance cause for alarm? Thank you for the help!

Yes, it is most likely through wired and the cause of your problems. Yes, the melted area is a concern since the GFCI has been overheated and is most likely the culprit. You also probably have a burned wire. Hopefully you have enough extra to trim off the bad end. Is it a 15 or 20 Amp GFCI? Looking at the face with the ground hole down, if both slots are straight it is a 15. If the left slot is "T" shaped, it is a 20 Amp. Kitchen circuits SHOULD be wired with a 20 Amp breaker and 12 AWG wire. If you have a 15 Amp GFCI, and the breaker and wire are rated for 20AMP, get a 20 AMP GFCI. If the breaker is 15 AMP, use a 15 AMP GFCI. Note that the back says LINE and LOAD. Make sure you reconnect the wires as connected or the GFCI won't work. Turn off the breaker before starting. Good luck and let us know how things work, Brian

Okay, let's level set here.

The NEC requires a minimum of two 20 amp GFCI protected circuits for above the counter receptacles in the kitchen. They can also supply receptacles in the dining room or breakfast area.

They are not to supply lighting fixtures or receptacles in any other areas.

If this GFCI protected outlet, also fed lights, the circuit is violating the electrical code.

As to the melting, normally when connections weaken they generate more heat. This heat in turn can melt insulation and plastic and also cause a fire.

If you are not experienced with electrical circuitry, then I suggest that you call a licensed electrician to make sure your installation meets code.

The Nec is about safety!

If you do not have voltage to the line side of the GFI, it will not reset(newer ones anyway).