Hey fellas, getting close to starting this project and here is what I got listed so far.

1. Bobcat work, getting a contractor to come in a clear out a patch and remove the topsoil from my property. He'll go down at least 8 inches, and will keep going till he hits the hard clay.

2. I'll rent a compactor and flatten the ground, once this is done, I'll call in the gravel to be poured.

3. level out the gravel and compact it down. (using marked stakes to ensure level of gravel across the patch.

For the friend who is coming down to help with the concrete pour, I want to have as much of the grunt work down before he gets here so he can focus mainly on the technical parts of the pad build.

How thick of a gravel underlay is good for a 24x24 - 26x26 pad? I'm getting quoted a fully tandem load of it.I'm going with a 4 inch thick concrete pad, and researching whether to use the welded wire mesh or rebar.

As far as the forms go, once they're laid out I'll be digging a small trench around the inside of the forms so that it basically creates a sort of footing for the pad.

I have all the quotes and rates for tool rentals at the local home depot, bull float etc for finishing.

I'm basically looking for some tips on the initial part of prepping the ground for the pour, before setting the forms. If you have any tips of tricks please let me know. Sorry for the long post!

Thanks!

lbrowne

Is this an attached garage or an out building? Will you be heating it? If so, you will need to insulate below the surface with foam boards.

You may want to consider putting down a couple of inches of foam insulation between the gravel and concrete just in case. (use plastic under the foam as a vapor barrier)

And, even if you aren't going to heat it now, you may want to put in a radiant floor heating tubing anyway. It is much cheaper to do it now than later.

When you compact the gravel, make sure to do it in layers and not all at once. I seem to recall 3-4" layers work best. as long as you end up with a 4-6" layer at the end. The more time and effort you put in at this stage will mean a better result down the road.

I like the idea of the trench around the perimeter. It seems to make sense.

As for rebar vs. mesh. That is a personal decision. Does your buddy have a preference? Just make sure that whichever option you go with that it ends up in the middle of the pour and doesn't sink to the bottom.

Detached garage.

I was going to get my area cleared, pack down the ground and have the gravel delivered - but I was going to have it dumped in my cleared area. I guess I can spread it around and layer it but I'm a bit stumped on the area under the pile. :confused: I'll figure it out I guess.

Would it be a good idea to layer out my gravel, going beyond where my forms/footings would be and then place my footings after? That would seem to make more sense.

Make sure the soil is compacted. Then you can add the gravel. You may want to rent a "dingo" (thats what HD calls them.) They are a walk behind mini skidsteer. They come w/ a bucket attachment, augers, etc. This will help spread the gravel and save your back. You don't really have to compact the gravel as long as the earth is compacted but if you have the compacter then do it.
When you set up your forms you may want them pitched to the door opening area so any water runs out of the garage if your not installing a floor drain. When you install the forms make sur the stakes holding the forms are cut below so they don't interfer when you screed.
Diging out a trench at the form area is a good idea. This is what they call a monolithic pour.
Go with the mesh. As your pouring get a garden rake or a hooked tool and pull the mesh up into the poured concrete. You want it about half the thickness of the pour. Use your judgment when pulling up on it.
I would recommend the day following the pour to cut control joints in the slab so any cracking happens in the cuts and doesn't spider web across the floor.