Greetings all! My wife and I are purchasing a house built during the 1960's in Texas. I have some concerns about the electrical system.

It appears to be wired with 2 wire, non metallic cabling for most of the outlets in the living and bed rooms. All these rooms have 2 prong outlets.

The kitchen and bathrooms are wired with an unknown type wiring, but have 3 prong outlets. Using a tester, they report as grounded. (I have no used a multimeter on them, just one of those testers that light up when there is current) They have a bare copper wire that is screwed into a metal box; the ground path is through the screws that attach the receptacle to the box (there is no jumper wire). None of these outlets are GFCI outlets.

The main service panel is located on the exterior of the home, and does not have a main disconnect breaker or switch. I do not know what to look for to tell what kind of grounding system exists (if one does exist). I do not know what amperage it is, nor how to tell.

I have A lot of electrical stuff - 6 computers, 2 servers, 3 laptops, TV's, stereos, and gaming systems galore. I was planning on running a dedicated circuit for my computers anyway.

OK onto the questions:

1. How can I tell if the house is grounded?
2. If it is NOT grounded, what are the potential problems?
3. If I understand correctly, to properly ground the outlets in the living and bedrooms will require running completely new lines. Correct?
4. Will installing GFCI breakers help in any way?
5. An electrician said I need a new 200a panel with a disconnect for a cost of about $1,200. Reasonable?


Thanks very much for any help.

OK onto the questions:

My answers follow your questions.

1. How can I tell if the house is grounded?

The neutral is grounded someplace, or should be, this is usually done at the main switch. Can be done at the meter and/or at the utility transformer. There should be a main switch. Is there one at the meter or on a utility pole?

There may be a ground wire leaving the main, meter or transformer going to a city water line or a ground rod.


2. If it is NOT grounded, what are the potential problems? Abnormal voltages, breakers won't trip, shocks from energized metal appliances.

3. If I understand correctly, to properly ground the outlets in the living and bedrooms will require running completely new lines. Correct?

The best way is to run new wiring with a grounding conductor.

4. Will installing GFCI breakers help in any way?

GFI devices can be used to protect circuits and outlets from ground faults instead of running new wire. This does not create grounding , just protects from ground faults.

5. An electrician said I need a new 200a panel with a disconnect for a cost of about $1,200. Reasonable?

Very reasonable, as long as the installation is complete with new service entrance conductors, meter, main switch, and panelboard with all necessary circuit breakers, and of course, proper grounding.

Thanks for your prompt response. I will try to get out to the house as soon as possible and look for the items you indicated.

I am still a little unclear with regard to the GFCIs. I realize they will not provide grounds, but by installing them will I achieve the same net effect as a grounded outlet? (That is, protection from abnormal voltages, shocks, etc). Basically, would I be able to plug in my equipment and be safe and not have to worry about equipment damage or harm?

Regarding the quote, I am not sure what the scope of it included. The exact wording the electrician used was:

Quote:

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Replace outside panel with a new panel and new breakers(200 amp) all that is allowed by Code is 6 handles on an outside service to shut down whole service. This service is way out of compliance and needs to be replace. $1200

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He also gave me a separate quote for adding GFCIs to the house for $450, and to ground the home and replace all ungrounded outlets for $3,300.

Item #3 I'd look a little closer at. If it's 2 or 2 wire with a bare ground you can tell by takng off the cover to the fuse panel. A reminder that outlets now need a pigtal to connect the ground terminal of the outlet to a metallic box.

Since the quote to replace all of the ungrounded outlets is very steep, then it is really possible that there are only 2 wires.

With the kind of devices that you have, it might be wise to include whole house surge protection which could include a separate groundiing system for lightning/surge protection. This will offer much better protection than a individual surge supressor.

Without a ground devices with a 3 prong plug that depend on a ground for their protection devices to work properly or for a reference for communication there could be problems.

Breakers are for overload protection. They keep wiring from melting.

GFCI's look at the difference in the amount of current flowing in the neutral and the hot lines. If it exceeds about 10 milliamps, the breaker trips. A grounded outlet is not necessary for them to work, but he outlets need to be labeled as GFCI protected, no ground. Required for kitchen, bath and outdoor areas. They basically prevent shocks. It only takes about 10 milliamps of current across the heart muscle to stop the heart.

AFCI - Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter is a relatively new device that is capable or analyzing the signiture of a "spark". This type of fault can occur when the insulation of a wire breaks down. It's now required in bedrooms and living rooms.

Is it a slab on grade house or a perimeter type foundation ?(realtor can tell you this) Is there good attic access ?(room to get around in?) adding circuits to a slab on grade house with a very low pitch roof(or even worse open beams) is very difficult without cutting open walls. Recommend you put computers on dedicated circuit(s). Land the neutral as far from where the feeder comes from the meter lands on the neutral bar as you can.(DO NOT change any neutral's position on the bar or disconnect without turning off power at the Main) Put the breaker for these circuits close to the lugs where the wire comes in from the meter(by the way your lights should be the first breakers next to the lugs,big things with motors,welders at the other end(farthest)DO use a Good surge protector with your computer/TV/stereo equipment (lots of lightning in tornado country)

It is slab on grade and yep it has a low pitch roof.

I figure I can do the grunt work of wiggling around the attic pulling wires. I am also expecting to have to knock holes.

Would it be OK if I just ran new lines and left the old ones laying up there and in the walls but not connected to anything?