We are purchasing a home in Florida (Miami Dade Codes) that was built in the early 60's. There is currently a 150amp fuse box in the house which was originally a 2 bedroom house. We are having the panel upgraded to 200amp and breakers. We are also having new wiring installed for a washer, dryer and hot water heater (never done correctly).

Our roof is MAYBE, 12/2 pitch (very low pitch), and therefore there is not a lot of wiggle room in the attic to get all done, major appliance addition wiring will be routed via conduit outside the house.

We also have a 500 sq ft garage that my husband will utilize for a sheet metal and wood working shop.

We were recommended to upgrade service to 200 amp service and run 100 amp service to garage.

At this time we have a meter that is probably older than dirt outside, the wire running from the meter to the house panel is aluminum and will be changed out.

HERE IS THE QUESTION(S)...

"""Is there a preferred box that we should be installing for our household breaker box at this time?""" We will be doing this in stages and do not want to have to go back and redo something later when we run power to the garage!

I noticed that there are upgrade boxes for the meter which include breakers in them, but those examples also said that there was still a load box in the home for it's service.

:eek:

Features to look for:

1.Local availabilty of breakers or easy to get.
2. Whether 2 pole, single space, independent breakers are available.
These allow 2 circuits in one space.
3. Whether a lockout kit is available that will only allow the main breaker or one nearby so that only one may be on at the same time. Future planning for generator.
4. Number of spaces

Meter base.
Disconnects at the meter may be required by code if distance to main box exceeds a certain distance. There are meter bases that can contain a GFCI outlet, say a 200 amp main and say a 100 amp main. You can then run wires from the meter base rather than inside the house if it's easier.

IF garage is detached:
A disconnect is required in the structure. You can use a main panel with a main breaker rating greater than the feeder as a. A ground rod will be required in this setup.

Aluminum wiring for the main power feed is common.

You really need to contact the Power Company to find out if they will have any problem with taking you to 200 Amp first.

May I suggest that you call several electrical contractors in the area and see what they bid for the job. Tell them exactly what you need them to do, including the subpanel for the garage.

There is no need to change the Aluminum drop wire, unless the power company needs to change it out.

I'm not at all familiar with the FL Light and Power company's processes for upgrading service, but I suspect that they would have to do the work from there transformer to the meter and the electrician would own the work internal to the home.

There are several responders to this board that are located in Florida and the will be much better resources for you.

All municipalities that I have ever dealt with use a version on the NEC Electrical Codes and whatever State and Local codes.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 200ampservice

We are purchasing a home in Florida (Miami Dade Codes) that was built in the early 60's. There is currently a 150amp fuse box in the house which was originally a 2 bedroom house. We are having the panel upgraded to 200amp and breakers. We are also having new wiring installed for a washer, dryer and hot water heater (never done correctly).

Our roof is MAYBE, 12/2 pitch (very low pitch), and therefore there is not a lot of wiggle room in the attic to get all done, major appliance addition wiring will be routed via conduit outside the house.

We also have a 500 sq ft garage that my husband will utilize for a sheet metal and wood working shop.

We were recommended to upgrade service to 200 amp service and run 100 amp service to garage.

At this time we have a meter that is probably older than dirt outside, the wire running from the meter to the house panel is aluminum and will be changed out.

HERE IS THE QUESTION(S)...

"""Is there a preferred box that we should be installing for our household breaker box at this time?""" We will be doing this in stages and do not want to have to go back and redo something later when we run power to the garage!

I noticed that there are upgrade boxes for the meter which include breakers in them, but those examples also said that there was still a load box in the home for it's service.

:eek:

---

Thank you for your imput and after posting question I realized that I didn't ask the appropriate questions...

1) we are not addressing the (detached) garage as of yet, we are going to disconnect the foul hook up that is in place at this time and start fresh
2) we are wondering if since we are not addressing the situation with the garage now, can we just install the 200 amp breaker load box to replace the fuses, make necessary connections (new) to laundry room and if so, is there a recommended load box with the understanding that we would like to have enough to eventually have flat screens in all bedrooms (only large one in living, some say they draw much more power)...
3) we noticed there are boxes on the outside of the house that are available through retail/wholesalers that have the meter on them but also have breakers, is that where the 100 amp drop takes place...
4) guess we are looking for correct terminology to use with the contractors, we've had several tell us to have 200 amp service with a 100 amp drop to garage (detached) but we do not understand if that comes off the house's orig. 20 0amp service or if it's additional to... and while we are in the construction industry and my husband has installed several breaker boxes in the past ~ we have never dealt with a drop to a garage/workshop and we want to make sure that when we do the updates for the interior and laundry room of the house that we cover all bases and do not repeat the work later with additional needs and expenses once we address the garage.

Thank you again, any more input is greatly appreciated.

(1) I know. Just mentioning special requirements.

(2) Recommendation of a load center. Would require some research. Thinking outloud again: There are "lighting" panels available. Options like dimming modules, scene ontrols etc.
Yes, you can. The shop drop/feeded CAN come from this panel.

(3) Read this: http://www.fcpud.com/pud%20meterb
Ase%20requirements.pdf
Note that this locality REQUIRES and outside disconnect. The feeder to the main panel and the 100 Amp garage panel CAN originate from here. I think if the distance between the meter and main panel exceeds 10', you have to have a disconnect outside. You cable and telephone should be grounded at this point too.

(4) 200 Amp is "total service" from the utility. Drops can be made at the disconnect or from the main panel. Your locality dictates special requirements. It makes a lot of sense to have one utility entry point for a property and have an exterior means of removing power in the case of say fire that doesn't require anybody to enter the structure. The exterior disconnect does increase cost, but it's probably a convient way to get power to the garage at a later time. It also allows complete main panel upgrades at a later time.

(5*) Don't dismiss the option of a generator. A family member could get sick and requre an oxygen generator. All that's required is the interlock kit and the space reserved to be occupied by the generator main breaker.

Thank you so much for your help KISS!

Take a look here. https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/electr...se-123290.html

Especially the 2nd and third link so you know what an interlock kit looks like.