Hello! Seems like there's a lot of questions regarding water pressure on this site and I think I've read about a million of them but I'm not finding an answer to my specific question. I bought a house with a private well (a deep well) and my water pressure is lower than I'd like throughout the house. The gauge at the pressure tank shows the pump kicking on at about 36psi and shutting off at about 64psi. At the valve on the tank it was reading 42psi and I pumped it up to 54psi. There is a label on the tank stating "Max Working Pressure 100psi". Should I pump the tank up closer to that 100psi range? Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

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Originally Posted by toofast4this

Hello! Seems like there's a lot of questions regarding water pressure on this site and I think I've read about a million of them but I'm not finding an answer to my specific question. I bought a house with a private well (a deep well) and my water pressure is lower than I'd like throughout the house. The gauge at the pressure tank shows the pump kicking on at about 36psi and shutting off at about 64psi. At the valve on the tank it was reading 42psi and I pumped it up to 54psi. There is a label on the tank stating "Max Working Pressure 100psi". Should I pump the tank up closer to that 100psi range? Any input would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!

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The pressure at the valve at the top of the tank should be set 2 pounds below the cut in point. So, in your case, with your pump cutting in at 36, the pressure at the top of the tank should be 34. Cutting off at 64 is about as high as you would want to go. Most switches, I believe, come preset at 20/40. I am running 40/62. The higher your tank pressure, the harder the pump has to work to get the pressure up and the shorter the life of the pump.

Whatever you do, don't set any pressures at 100! That refers to the maximum tested pressure for your tank. It is NOT a recommended pressure.

Thank you! That's exactly the kind of answer I was hoping for. I don't want to replace the pump any sooner than necessary so thanks again for explaining so thoroughly. I guess I'll start looking at other options to increase the water pressure. Take care jlisenbe.

I know this is an old thread but... how can you tell what your switch is set to? My pump seems to be kicking on A lot!

Thanks, Dan

Watch your pressure gauge. With a faucet running, let pressure drop until you hear the switch "click" on. Turn the faucet off, and watch the pressure gauge until the switch "clicks" again, turning the pump off. Those two pressure measurements are where you pump cuts on/off. Depending on the size of your pressure tank, you should be able to get at least five or six gallons of water before the pump has to cut back on again. If you are only getting a small amount of water, your tank might have problems.

Hi danofresh and welcome to The Plumbing Page at AskMeHelpDesk.com

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.how can you tell what your switch is set to?

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. The cut in/cut out points are printed on your control box.

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My pump seems to be kicking on A lot!

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Let's check the tank and if it checks out we'll set the tank up pressurewise.
With the pump up to pressure pop the air valve on top of the tank, If air comes out we'll go on to the next step but if water comes out the tank is faulty and must be replaced.
If the tank checks OK then shut the pump off at the breaker and open a cold water faucet to bleed off the pressure. Now pressure the tank up at 2 PSI UNDER the cut in point on the control box. Turn the breaker back on, pump to pressure and you're back in business. Good luck, Tom

Eeek! I followed your instructions and got water. Guess I'll be calling my local plumber. Too many pipes touching copper for me to tinker around with. Drats! Thank you!

You have a ruptured bladder in your tank, Replace the tank! This isn't a big deal, Get the tank and I'll walk you through the installation. You can do it, Simply unthread the old tank and thread in the new one. Let me know what you want to do. Regards, Tom

Going to get a tank around noon. Looking at it, do you think its going to be necessary to replace all the other stuff that's connected? Or can I get away with just replacing the tank?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wn6owccoke...mp_Diagram.jpg

I know its been a while since the last post to this thread but I have a potential issue. I followed the instructions on the #6 post except I wasn't able to turn the pump off without turning the pressure regulator off at the same time. It appears they are both on the same circuit. Once I bled out pressure from the system, I then turned the pump and regulator on at the same time. I watched the pressure continue up until it got to 67 psi and then got worried and shut off the system. The regulator is a 30 on and 50 off model. Should I be concerned if the pressure continues up past the 50 psi off spec? Will I blow something?

Hopefully someone is still monitoring this thread.

David

Please explain what you mean by pressure regulator. A pressure regulating valve (PRV) is a mechanical device used on a municipal water systems. Most residential water systems operate at approximately 60 lbs. Municipal water distribution systems often have to operate at pressures much above that. The PRV is used to reduce that pressure. It is not commonly found on well systems.
The pump switch is used to regulate the pressure on well systems. It normally has a 20 lb. differential. Usually set 20-40, 30-50 or 40-60. Your preference.

The PRV is a mechanical device and has no electrical connections.

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Once I bled out pressure from the system,

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Please explain that statement also.

Never mind folks, I found out how to adjust the range on the switch. I've got a 30/50 switch set to 40/60. If anyone sees an issue I might run into, feel free to reply.
Thanks,
David

Thanks for the reply
Speedball 1 had a post #6 saying to let all the pressure out of the system then pressure up the system to 2 psi below the "on" level. In this case (38) psi since I am adjusting the switch to around 40/60. All of this I figured out since that first post earlier this evening. I hope I'm a little more clear. Do you think my system is good at that range?
Thank you

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Originally Posted by hkstroud

Please explain what you mean by pressure regulator. A pressure regulating valve (PRV) is a mechanical device used on a municipal water systems. Most residential water systems operate at approximately 60 lbs. Municipal water distribution systems often have to operate at pressures much above that. The PRV is used to reduce that pressure. It is not commonly found on well systems.
The pump switch is used to regulate the pressure on well systems. It normally has a 20 lb. differential. Usually set 20-40, 30-50 or 40-60. Your preference.

The PRV is a mechanical device and has no electrical connections.

Please explain that statement also.

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Yes, your system can operate in that range.
When setting the pre-charge pressure be sure that the tank is empty of all water.
What you are doing is pressurizing your tank to 2 lbs. less than the cut on pressure of the pump switch. That makes your pump come on just before you run out of water in the tank. You adjust the cut on/cut off pressure of the pump switch by tighten or loosening the large spring of the switch. You adjust the range between cut on and cut off by adjusting the small spring.

That's great info Harold, when setting the pre-charge pressure, is that done by adding or letting out pressure with the valve on top of the tank? The tank manufacturer says the factory has pre-charged the tank at 38 psi.

If I am running water in the house with the pump off until the tap runs dry, is that indicating the tank then is empty of water?

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when setting the pre-charge pressure, is that done by adding or letting out pressure with the valve on top of the tank?

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Yes.

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pump off until the tap runs dry, is that indicating the tank then is empty of water?

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Yes, assuming that there is some air pressure in the tank. Just pressurize the tank with a faucet open, should have correct pressure.

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Originally Posted by hkstroud

Yes.


Yes, assuming that there is some air pressure in the tank. Just pressurize the tank with a faucet open, should have correct pressure.

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Pump air into the tank just like I was filling up a tire, with a tap on in the house. Filling the tank to the factory 38 psi. Is that correct?

Then turn the pump on and all is good?

Yes, pump should come on, then turn of at 60 lbs. If necessary fine tune switch setting.

This is a really good site. I've learned a lot between here and some other YouTube videos I've seen. Thank you again Harold

How to recharge an existing pressure tank that may have lost its pressure.

1. Turn off well pump and open a cold faucet/bath tub or shower to relieve all water pressure in the lines.

2. Use an air compressor to pump air into the top air valve on the tank until it reaches 2 psi less than the Off setting for your pump switch.
A 20/40 rated switch would require 18 psi. a 30/50 rated switch would be 28 psi. a 40/60 rated switch would be 38 psi.

3. Check the air pressure in the tank and replace the cap once the proper psi is reached.

4. Turn on the power to the well and let the faucet run for a minute to purge any air accumulated within your water lines.

5. Gently close any open faucets and take a reading at the pressure gauge for the maximum pressure it reached.

6. Fine tune the pressure reading on the switch by turning the adjustment nuts to either lower or raise the on/off limits for that particular switch.

The pump should run less often and if it reverts back to a much more frequent cycle time say every 10-15 seconds, then the pressure tank bad and should be replaced with the similar size that was originally installed.