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I have a maytag performa PYE4500AYW dryer. It was working perfect, never had any problems. All of a sudden after a load of towels it won't turn on. No power at all. I check the breaker and even removed the back where the power cord is to make sure its still connected. I checked the wall outlet and there's no problem there either. I really can't afford a new dryer right now.

I figured out the Thermal fuse is blown. After I replaced it, 5 seconds later it went out. What else could be tripping it? There's a burning smell near the coil. I can't afford to keep replacing the thermal fuse... Help

Did you ever figure it out... same dryer, same problem.

Is it the one on the vent housing? If so the reason in blew is because the vent is clogged up or a pinched vent between the dryer and where it exits the house. The burnt smell is the lint. It will continue to blow all the fuses you put in until you correct problem. Good luck .Post back with results as it will help others in the future

I have the same problem with a 4 year old dryer that gets little usage with only 1 person. I've replaced the thermal fuse along with the thermostat. I've also had the vents cleaned and 6 months later it's dead again.

Sprtbke:::- I agree with Esquirel, IT don't take long for lint to accalate ehere you don't want. Clean you lint trap before drying each load of cl;othes, Clean the vent, even through the wall ,and clean the whole inside , I always used a shop vac.. . Disc-onnect power First While you are inside the outer case, chect all the wireing, for shorts , burnt blackened Wires, Broken Wirerswires pinched Wires Good luck GOD < F>B>E.

The thermal fuse on your dryer is located directly above the heating element. The replacement kit comes with 3 thermostats 1 high limit and 2 thermal fuses 1 pink 1 yellow. First when you did the load of towels was the cycle completed (finished the cool down) when you removed the towels? This dryer is sensitive to missing its cool down and will trip the thermal fuse. Second did you also replace the supplied high limit and use the correct thermal fuse in the package? Next did you check the heating element to verify it isn't touching the housing causing a direct short? Did you check your air output by removing the vent from the back of the dryer and verify the blower wheel is turning? Remove your lint screen and take a wrapping paper tube and fit it over the end of your vacuum and insert it into the lint screen duct and suck up any gathered lint in that area. The shop vac is a good idea but after 15 years in this business an electric leaf blower inserted into the vent (pointing outside of course) works the best. Verify your flap or louvers are opening up properly outside the house and that there is no obstruction in front of the vent outside. Your venting should be as straight as you can possibly get it with a total run not to exceed 15 feet. Keep in mind every elbow in terms of air throw is considered 4 feet of run. If all else is good you are probably "fixing" a symptom not the problem which may be a failed cycling thermostat on the blower housing.

Just my 2 cents...

We have the same dryer and same issue- replaced the thermal fuse about 3 times.
My husband has taken the whole machine apart and vaccumed it 3-4 times (about every 6 months) it doesn't even make it through a load without shutting itself off.

I'm having this same issue, dryer just died, won't turn on. Assuming it's the thermal fuse, can it be verified by simply checking continuity w/ a meter?

Also, can someone recommend where to buy replacement parts?

I found this site:

Maytag PYE4500AYW

And this kit:

Partselect.com - Maytag Dryer Parts And All Brands of Appliance Parts

http://www.partselect.com/assets/par...177300_1_M.jpg

Thanks

Sprtbke - IF you want to test the heat protectors . USEINGthe VOLT-OHM meter ,set it on RX1-scale. #1- unplug the power cord from the wall:: remove the back panel so you can get to the area you need to get to ;; #2- Disconnect one of the wires (LEADS ) GOING TO IT , CLIP ONE OF THE TWO PROBS FROM THE METER TO EACH ONE OF THE TERMINALS : IF THE METER READS (ZERO ) THE PROTECTOR IS GOOD< IF THE READING ON THE METER IS HIGH THEN THE PROTECTOR IS FAULYU< REPLACE:: #3- check all of the protectors the same way,Leave meter seting the same on all of them; #4 - check all wires and terminals for burnt terminals ,and wires, pinched,etc. RE place bad parts and replace all wires you removed ::: T) TEST THE HEATING COIL:: #1- DISCONNECT THE LEADS (WIRES) <INSERT one of THE METER PROBS INTO HEATER TERMINAL, AND TOUCH THE OTHER TO THE HEATER DUCT< IF THE
METER READING IS HIGH< HEATER IS GOOD< IF THE METER NEEDLE SWINGS TOWARD THE LOW END < THE HEATER IS GROUNDED:: : TO TEST THE HEATER COIL FOR OPEN CIRCUIT:: DISCONNECT THE LEADS TO IT AND INSERT VOLT-OHM METER PROBS IN HEATER TERMINALS< IF METER READS BETWEEN 8 & 20 OHMS< THE HEATER IS OK< IF IT READS HIGH IT IS DEFECTIVE <REPLACE:: :: Don't FORGET TO REKOOK UP THE WIRES YOU TOOK OFF: I HOPE THIS HELPS YOU WITH YOUR PROBLEM::
HEERS WISHING YOU AND YOURS A VERY HAPPY AND SAFE NEW YEAR:: GOD BLESS::: F.B.E. ( HELLO DOUG< SAME TO YOU ALL ) F.B.E. ( ps -DOUG GAVE A GOOD ANSWER )

Got it going! It ended up being a bad high limit thermal fuse. When I put an Ohm meter on it, it was open. Bought a replacement kit locally for $26.

http://www.postimage.org/aV1zVpei.jpg

I believe I have the same issue - dryer just stopped. From the picture in the answer above, where is the circled thermal fuse located? I've located the one pictured in the center just above the coil.

I believe I have the same issue - dryer just stopped. I've located the thermal fuse pictured in the center of the diagram in the previous post. Can someone tell me where the fuse circled in red is located?

I found the blule thermal fuse under the lid where are the other ones located?

I found the main thermal fuse it came with the main one then a smaller one where do I find the smaller one in the dryer?

Same problem, and I figured out where the thermal fuse is (the circled one in the picture). It is actually underneath the blue one. You will have to remove the heating coils box and it's on the right side of this box. Another hint, look for the two white wires hooked to the coils box. These white wires are plugged into the thermal fuse. Good Luck.

What you have to do is a major cleaning. Remove front, then belt and drum and clean out everywhere air moves and the motor. Take apart all duct work and cover on heating coils and scrape out and wash out lint deposits. Also, check vent because it can be clogged or pinched off. Driers just have a problem of lint buildup no matter how well you clean the filter and try vacuuming it out, which does not work since buildup is like concrete. Someday someone may invent a drier that solves this problem. DrTom4444

I had the same problem... burnt 3 thermal fuses... then went online and found a forum that said that what may be burning the fuse is the heating element that when it gets too hot one of the wires touches soemthing that makes the fuse go out.

As soon as I replaced the heating element (check ebay) my problem was solved...
No more burnt thermal fuses and dryer works perfectly well

:D

Look at these manuals and see if they help: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Maytag%20Dryers.zip
You trace the wires and use an ohm meter to find the blown fuse. You have to totally clean the dryer out to stop the blowing of fuses. Anything you miss will cause problems and blown fuses. If you will send me jpegs I will tell you what they are, but you need to test with a meter; a meter answers all questions.