Where is the fuel pump and relay for a 1992 honda accord ex?

. Fuel pump is in the gas tank.

. Main relay is located under the dash, left of the steering column (hidden by silver cruise control box, which needs to be removed).

A mechanic said that the fuel pump was under the back seat (and he actually commented that it was great because it was easier because the fuel tank doesn't have to be taken off)... but I needed to know where at under the back seat...

Thanks!

It's located in the gas tank, but access is gained by removing the rear seat and a cover plate on the gas tank.

What's not great is that the fuel pump is likely fine and he'll likely be wasting your money. I have never seen a Honda fuel pump go bad. Mechanics replace them, when they really don't understand how the Honda fuel system operates--it's big money. Go slow!

So do you think the problem may just be the fuel relay? If it is that would be great!

That's possible, but the problem may be much simpler.

. Check all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter. Particularly test the ACG(ALT)(S) fuse, located in the under dash fuse box.

. Clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing. Look for a 3-wire brass connector.

. Test the ECM (computer). Does the Check Engine Light come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

The check engine light has been on since I bought the car 8 months ago.
Could you please give me suggestions as to what I should get at the auto store? I have to use a bus to get to the auto parts store and I really need to get this car moving because my friend to the doctors on Monday. Thank you for helping me, I really appreciate your help!

Mechanics love to sell people on the idea that the fuel pump or main relay is bad, without first diagnosing why the Check Engine Light (CEL) stays on. Usually, it's a waste of money.

If the CEL does not go out (i.e. stays on), most Hondas of this generation will not spark and the fuel pump will not run. Therefore, all efforts should first be directed to correcting that problem.

If the CEL does not come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to Position II, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) 15 amp fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

Ok what I need is the car to run because I need it... so I don't understand if you are saying that I need to go through the steps you just said to get the cel to go off or get the car running or both?
Sorry to be confusing but I am new at this.

Thanks for being patient with me

Yes, you need to go through the steps I outlined. They really are not too difficult.

How long has it been since the car started and ran normally?

The car was running fine the other day when I drove it, then we had a really bad storm and it hasn't been driven in about 2 days. And this morning it sputtered and conies out about 3 times before it completely died. It tries to turn over but doesn't.

1. Are you saying the starter motor cranks the engine but it won't start?
2. Do you suspect the battery is drained?
3. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), can you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run?

It sounds like your CEL has been on for 8 months, because it has thrown one or more codes. It would be good to have someone read those codes for you. The CEL staying on, from previously thrown codes, may be interfering with you using the CEL to diagnose the problem at hand.

1. Yes
2. No the mechanic put the charger on it
3. I don't know, what is it supposed to sound like?

Thanks

I don't know how to get someone to read why my CEL is on because I can't move the car.

Go out and turn the ignition switch to ON. Open the lid to the gas tank and tell me if you can hear the fuel pump motor run for 2 seconds. Have someone else listen, if necessary. Can you do that?

Here's how to check for codes yourself:

Service Check Connector (SCC): Reading OBD-I Codes

When the Check Engine Light (CEL) is on, it will be necessary to locate the 2-pin Service Check Connector (SCC) on OBD-I (pre-1996) Hondas. It is normally located under the dash, approximately 1 inch (2.5cm) from the right kick panel. Take a small screwdriver and carefully pry it from the rubber mount. The other 3-pin connector in the rubber mount is the Data Link Connector (DLC), which should be left alone. Jump the SCC with a paper clip, turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), and count the number of times, if any, the CEL flashes. Reference a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) chart to identify the code being displayed.

You have an old code(s) that have caused the CEL to stay on. Clear the old codes by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 10 seconds and then reconnect it. Then, turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II) and tell me if the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out. If you can also hear the fuel pump run, during this 2 second interval, then is suspect you have a problem where the Ignition Control Module (ICM) inside the distributor may have failed. It could also be moisture inside the distributor cap, since you mentioned rain. I'm very skeptical the fuel pump has anything to do with your problem.

Don't have someone else to listen and I tried to hear it myself but I didn't hear anything. What does it sound like?

Humm. Crank driver's window down, while you listen.