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Originally Posted by themzcman

Hi Folks...
I fought with this problem myself... took me a year to figure out... but I had the exact problem that you did; here is how you fix it.
The Main Relay on the Honda Accord is called a "Fuel Injector Relay." If you go to your local part store it should run about 58 bucks. Purchase the part first... it will help you to know what you are looking for. (A gray little box with a plug at the end.)
This is how you fix it.
1. Get in the drivers seat.
2. Keep door open and look on the left side of the dashboard. You will notice a removable panel labeled fuses. NOTE: You can only see it with the door open.
3. Remove the panel by pulling out.
4. Two (2) screws hold a bottom panel under the steering wheel. Remove the screws (Black and Brass) and remove the panel by pulling outward and down.
5. Look through the cluster of wires and you will see the FIR (Fuel Injector Relay)
6. Use a 10 mm rachet to remove the bracket holding a plastic pin and the FIR.
7. Use a small flat head screw driver to remove the FIR
8. Unplug the old... plug in the new.
9. Reverse these steps to reassemble your panel under your dash.

A honda dealership tryed to get 3000 bucks out of me to find and fix this problem. After much research I found the answer for under 60 bucks.

Good luck... this should fix your issues!
Be well.
Let me know if this works for you! The best advice is cheap if not free!
MySpace.com - Tim ONeil - Detroit, Michigan - Ambient / Classical / Acoustic - www.myspace.com/composertimoneil

Sincerely,
Tim O'Neil

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Thank you Sir!

That sounds like a pain in the *ss but I will give it a try.

Dave

My wife’s ’98 Accord (4 cyl) will no longer start but it has nothing to do with the temperature or weather. I’ve read through everything (including the FAQ) but I can’t seem to find a similar situation.

I took the car out on Saturday and it started very hard and ran extremely rough / choppy for a few seconds. I gave it some gas and everything smoothed out. I drove it for a bit and made a few stops and it started up normally each time. Monday morning, the car wouldn’t start. It’s now Wednesday and, after multiple attempts, it still won’t start. When I turn the key, it cranks so it’s not the starter or battery but it never seems to make an attempt to actually start running.

The fuel pump starts up and the relay clicks, all the fuses are good, and no error codes are being reported. I also replaced the spark plugs and checked them for spark. I don’t see any leaks or cracks anywhere in the distributor or anything else related. Any suggestions?

. Plywood20, running through the tests in Sections A and B below should help you pinpoint the problem:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

. Be sure to use a test light or multimeter to check all under-dash and under-hood fuses. Here's how:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Run the K-Test on the ECM.
. Check for spark.

If you still cannot locate the problem, focus on the distributor. They go frequently--the problem could be unserviceable internal sensors (CKP, CYL, and TDC) or a bad ICM or coil. ICMs and coils can be checked for free at AutoZone. If the internal distributor sensors are bad, you should install a new Honda distributor housing and reuse ICM and coil, if they test okay.

For some odd reason, the car is starting every time now. However, the first time it started up, it was extremely rough / on the verge of stalling and the garage was instantly filled with exhaust fumes. I haven't made it into the distributor but the MAP sensor was throwing around 3 volts - not normal but not excessively low. Should 3 volts at the MAP be a concern?

3 volts at the MAP Sensor is a very real concern. My bet is that your ECM is failing. It's intermittent, now, but soon is will likely completely die. I suggest you install a remanufactured ECM, with a lifetime warranty.

If you perform the K-Test at various times, you'll likely get varying results. Sometimes, it will be very low and the car won't start or run well; other times, it will be more normal. Eventually, it will be very low (.3 volts), stay there, and the car won't start. My advice is to replace it now on your terms.

NHTSA Campaign ID # 02V120000
Potentail units affected 1000000 honda accords
1998 accords electrical system: ignition switch. Recall date: 05/16/2002

Summary: on certain sedans,coupes, electrical contacts in the ignition swictch can degrade
Due to the high electrical current passing through the switch when the vehicle is started.

Consequence: worn contacts could cause the engine to stall without warning, increasing the risk of a crash.

Remedy: dealers will replace the ignition switch. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact honda at 800-999-1009

My wife drives a 96 Honda accord EX (6cyls) and we had this starting problem since early on , 2000 (?). I've tried replacing distributor cap and rotor, genuine Honda spark plug wires, spark plugs, had the fuel injector clean by mechanics. Problem still persisted, come and go.

When the problem comes, it is always after the car siting in the garage for a while or overnite. To start the car, I press the gas pedal half way and hold the key. I was able to start the car most of the time and lots of smoke came out. Once it's started, the car will be OK for a while. It would not stall for anytime during the day. No dealer or mechanic can figure out why. Oh, yeah, I had the car in them numerous times to no avail.

I've been using fuel injector cleaner (good and expensive ones) every other week. I've not had starting problem for a while, may be once every few months. And I was able to start it with the procedure I gave above every time. The car now has over 130,000 miles and still running well except this occasional starting problem.

Tim O'Neil,

I will definitely try your suggestion. I'll let you know how it turn out.

Me too! A buck 99 versus 150.00 is worth a shot.

I have a 1993 Honda Accord LX it also was running rough at low RPM's and just quit one day driving down the street. Checked it out and it had no spark would turn over easy but no spark. The problem was the Ignition Control Module. It cost $70.00 at Advance Auto Parts. It is an easy fix. Disconnect the battery cables. Remove air filter and air filter box so you have room to unscrew the three screws from the distributor to remove the distributor cap. One the distributor cap is removed take a flat screw driver and pry off the rotor from the shaft and remove the cover so you can get access to the inside of the distributor. You will see the Ignition Control Module there are two screws that hold it inside of the distributor the are located on the outside below the ICG Module unscrew the two screws and be careful not to strip them use a good phillips screw dirver and a lot of pressure on the screw as to not strip them. Once those two screws are unscrewed remove the four wires and be careful not to break the wires other wise you will have to sodder new wires. Once the wires are removed it will slide right out. Take and unscrew the two screws on the back of the ICG and remove the bracket you will need the bracket to install on the new ICG. Use the gel between the two medals so that it will not corrode later. Reinstall all parts in the reverse order that you removed them. This is a known problem and it will no doubt fix your starting problem. Easy fix only nine screws total.

I have a 98 Accord with 301,000. Mind you I too have been having this stalling problem. I can cruise around and all of sudden the engine dies and starts itself back up. I know within 10 or 15 miles I will completely stall. I have to crank and crank while driving and usually within 5 or 6 attempts it will startup. I have stalled at 75 mph and at 10mph, going straight down the highway or turning on a local street.
What I have noticed when I stall, is that if I hold the key forward and don't release the key the car stays started. I do hear a slight grind sound of the starter, but it is enough to get me out of harms way. 100% of the time holding the key keeps the car started, once I let go it stalls, and I do my 5 or 6 attempts. Also, if I run the car an 30 or 40 minutes and turn the car off and try to quickly start it back up it won't start up. I have to do my 5 or 6 attempts or wait 5 or 10 minutes. When I get gas, I always worry if it will start back up and that seems long enough for it to always start up.
Is this the fuel pump or the main relay or the ignition switch?

With the mileage on your car, I would replace the ignition switch and main relay.

Likewise, I have a 99 V6 Accord which had a stalling problem. It stalled inconsistently, in any weather conditions, freeway driving or stopped at a light, in a turn, etc. It was pretty scary sometimes because I live in Colorado. It did not seem to match any of the typical symptoms. For over a year I tried to figure it out and nobody could help. The ignition switch and EGR valve were already replaced. I tried a tune up, premium gas, and additives. Even the dealership said it was more likely a fuel issue. But after replacing the $50 EFI main relay my problem was SOLVED. No stalling for six months. Good luck, I hope this helps.

My honda accord don't want to start the batteye is good

I also had this nightmare of a problem!! For the past 10 months my 1998 Honda Accord(155450 miles) would completely shut off when I am driving. It would just die but what I did notice every time this happened, for some strange reason the clock would remain on?? I talked to a lot of people regarding this problem and I got a lot of possible problems from fuel pump, bad distributor, bad fuel injector relay, distributor module, you name it I was told to replace everything or check it. Well me being so stubborn I didn't take it to the mechanic I replaced everything myself , I have spent well over $450.00 trying to correct the problem. And notthing fixed the problem!! :mad: :mad: To make a long story short I came to this website and someone posted that same problems and fixed it by installing a new IGNITION SWITCH!! Guess what that done it!! I have put well over 500 miles on my car since and haven't had this problem come back. I went to Auto Zone and the part was $42.00. Very easy to install if you are handy with a screwdriver. This website helped me out with a lot of headaches, and saved me money because I was getting ready to install a new fuel pump and these can get pretty expensive. If there is someone out there with the same problem you can email me and I can guide you step by step with instructions on how to install the switch. Thank god for the internet!! :) [email protected]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by h20mobius

Mom has a 98 Accord. Car dies intermittently, and then won't start.

HOW IT DIES: The RPM's gradually drop (at random) until the idle no longer keeps the engine running. If you notice it dropping, you can give it gas and "ressurrect the idle" - which seems to be fine for awhile after.

AFTER IT DIES:
After the car dies (at random), it will turn over with a healthy crank, but not start unless you let it sit for 5 minutes or so. So far, this has happened in relatively warm weather (75+).

AFTER IT RE-STARTS:
No check engine lights are flagged, and the car runs fine for an indefinite amount of time (sometimes days).

My theory is, it has to be related to Engine Management (sensors, OBD, etc), Fuel Delivery (pump, relay, filter) or Ingition (spark, distributor, etc).

Has anyone experienced this? Dealership says they can't find out what's going on...

Many thanks.

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I am having the same problem with my honda accord sir 98
But now it won't start at all like no gas can get through, when was going id be going about 100kz but every now and then it would feel like it wanted to cut out
I would have thort the filter is blocked and not letting gas through
But took it to a michanic and he told me I do not have a filter?

Perform the tests, in Sections A and B, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

Honda Chick, every Honda I have ever seen has a fuel filter. I recommend you take it to Honda for servicing. Replacing the Ignition Control Module, coil, main relay, and fuel filter will likely solve the problem, providing the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II). If the car cranks but won't start, the odds are greater than 90% that the problem is electrical-related, not fuel.

Honda Chick
I own a 1998 Honda accord

Had this problem happen to me. Car would idle and stop. Mechanic could not find a problem but Noted when he checked the fuel pressure it was in the 40 something psi range. I read it suppose to be 50 -55 range so I took a chance and changed the fuel regulator myself and it solved my problem. It holds the fuel back pressure on your system. Heard the Honda fuel pumps are pretty reliable so went with the regulator.

Same problem. I will not be purchasing a Honda product again. Poor service.

95% of the time Hondas that don't start in hot and humid weather is the result of the deteriorated solder welds on the FUEL MAIN RELAY. I've had this happen on not only my Acura but my girlfriends Accord. She was told her rims were too hot by the original owner. Ridiculous! Actually, it's an easy fix. I picked up 2 cheap on eBay. It took 5 minutes. To replace under the left side of dash... under the coin drawer. Both cars start every time now regardless of the temperature. If you can't replace the relay yet, you must make it cool off. Parking in the shade helps. Opening the doors for 10-20mins may be your only other option. Hope this helps!