We have removed the check valve and tried with or without the CV. I am going to pick up another foot valve and try. I did find a used pump (less than a year old) locally for sale, it is 3/4 horsepower, with 400 feet of wire, but it's the one with the control box, the tank it is less than a year old... with control box or without which is better? We are figuring we need to rebury our pipe anyway so the burying of the cable would go along with that... we would have to get about 50-75 feet more wire though.

Try the FV first before buying a pump. Might end up saving some money.

Not sure what you mean by a control box. If this is another jetpump, then I assume you mean another pressure switch. If it is a sub pump, then many of them use a separate box to control the startup for the pump. As far as I know, it would work fine.

Yes, I checked online and there are 2 wire and 3 wire pumps, the 3 wire actually have 3 wires and a ground and the control box is separate, while the 2 wire have 2 wires and a ground wire and the control box is inside the pump... not sure how they work differently but that is what I read on Ebay. I went to town and bought one and bought a CV also that is the brass type that was shown here before, instead of the big clunky round one with a flapper that is hinged on on side inside, whilst this one had a round thing that goes up and down and should work better if we need it.

Okay so we got the foot valved replaced and did not stir up the water, and filled it from inside. It only took about 4 quarts of water, so thinking we have air to get out of the line. A 400-450 feet line, with a few ups and downs, how many gallons of water would it be reasonable to think it would take to get all air out of the line. Hubby didn't want to put the check valve on yet... This pump was bought as a new pump in the box that she bought 2 years ago, she had the receipt with her, and it still is under limitted warranty for about a month left, do you think a limitted warranty would replace it at this point? Just wondering if the pump might not be good... we are still pumping, going on 90 gallons we pumped out of it now... Hubby has not removed the little hose from the pump to the electrical box yet... to make sure its not plugged... going to pump a third 45 gallon barrel then and see if that takes all the air out. Right now it goes to 50, then bounces 3 or 4 times down to 30 and stays off for a second or 2, then bounces back, like it is sucking back.

Looks like we MIGHT have got our water going. THe check valve on, and the new foot valve and we filled several barrels of water, and we have WATER! Yeah, hoping it won't loose its prime while sitting all night, we will see in the morning! It is SO nice to have spring water again, without having to haul it from 3 miles away on the truck in barrels!

Hooray! After everything, it was a ten dollar footvalve. Let us know tomorrow if everything is still wonderful.

Is this the new CV?

Yes, its one of the brass ones, like someone showed me earlier, the one I had was a big clunky looking one with a flap that was flipping open, the new one has a round thing that the whole thing goes up... and now I have tons of Sharkbite connectors, and etc that I bought thinking I might use, but don't think I have the receipts to take back, LOL, but still less than having a plumber come out!

ARGGGGGGG I figure we have a leak, SOMEWHERE in the line, we bought 300 feet of hose and started at the spring. After sitting all night, I forgot to check the pressure before flushing the toilet, but after flushing it was down to 5 lbs of pressure, guessing we have a problem below the check valve in our line where its sucking air in! UGGGGGGG back to the drawing board today!

First, check to make sure you still have prime at the pump. That will at least tell you if the CV is doing its job. Won't take 5 minutes.

I will check. So hubby thinks it's the foot valve sucking or joints near it sucking in air, but there is only one that is above the water level, and I will check it, other than that... I should really have checked the pressure BEFORE trying it this morning as that would have told me if it was below the check valve. If the pump was full of water and full pressure, and only when it started trying to pump did it loose pressure then I would have known it was below the check valve.

Okay so I suspected there was a problem with under the house, the only piece of pipe I never changed, so I undid the pump from inside the house and took it to across the driveway where there is a splice... and hooked the pump up with NO check valve, it pumped up and shut off, the pressure went down to 40 when it shut off, didn't stay at 50, but is that okay?

SO inside the house, with a lift of about 5 more feet, and with 50 feet of pipe more, it is back to bouncing, but when you unplug it when its close to 50 lbs of pressure it only goes down to 30... so guessing the check valve will work, but want to make sure that the water will not drop below the check valve enough to loose prime once I put it on, so letting it sit for some time to see if it drops in pressure when unplugged before putting the check valve back on.

Check valve worked, system was working fine, but after sitting it would not pump up, so figure we have a small leak somewhere (I had let it sit without the check valve for awhile but it was fine, but not a long time)... so back to trying to get everything perfect tomorrow. Would putting the larger tank on help any minor problems? I am getting so discouraged, something works for a bit then we have trouble again! If we ever get this going right! UGGGG... I just don't want to have to buy a submersible pump right now! All that wire would be expensive!

Paint, you really should call the company that made the pump. The warranty is running out and they might have a really good answer for you. Chances are, they have seen the situation on several other occasions.