Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

. No, the ICM doesn't affect starter signal power.

. Depress clutch and turn the ignition switch all the way, as if you were trying to start the car.

. You'll have to use your own judgment regarding the rear seat.

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I depressed the clutch and turned the ignition switch to start and I observed voltage not quite 12v somewhere around 8-9v.

I did manage to remove the back seat but I am not sure where the fuel pump harness is. The only cover plate I found was on the passenger side, Is this the tank unit (float)?

OK, I checked for voltage at the pump using the yellow wire on the three pin connector next to the sending unit and got 12V. Does that mean it is the pump for sure?

I'm not sure what that is--it doesn't look like the fuel pumps I've seen on Hondas. You usually see a fuel line going to the pump and a sending unit next to it.

This is what it should look like:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...Text=fuel+pump

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

I'm not sure what that is--it doesn't look like the fuel pumps I've seen on Hondas. You usually see a fuel line going to the pump and a sending unit next to it.

This is what it should look like:

AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection | Year

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That is the fuel tank sending unit in the picture. The harness is shared by the fuel pump, I had an old Haynes manual that showed me what it was, but it was a little obvious that it was a tank unit being on top of the fuel tank ( I just wasn't certain at first).

So power at the fuel pump harness sort of leads to one conclusion. I will jumper the fuel pump from the harness tomorrow though.

Is that corossion on the left harness wire and bolt, near the seatbelt? If so, clean and apply dielectric grease.

Here is another update about my fuel pump problem. I have dropped the fuel tank and removed the pump. I can see why it was not working. The entire tank is filled with sludge. Now, I wonder if I should just change the sending unit for good measure since I have the tank out already. Anyway, I am going to finish tomorrow since it is late, dark, and I am tired.

Yes, I would change the sending unit. Fuel pumps require fuel for cooling--your's likely burned out from the sludge. Your hard work will likely extend the life of your Accord by many years. Nice job.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Yes, I would go ahead and change the sending unit. Fuel pumps require fuel for cooling--your's likely burned out from the sludge. Your hard work will likely extend the life of your Accord by many years. Nice job.

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Here is the update,, I installed the pump and the pump works strong. But it leaks. I dropped the tank again to look for the leak and can't find anything unusual, the banjo bolt is tight and the hoses are fine. I thought maybe the pump seal was leaking so I pulled the pump again and checked it. It is installed correctly and appears to be serviceable. It still leaks.:mad:

I am not giving up, but I will be able to open my own shop after this.:)

Was it a new pump? Where does it leak? Change the fuel filter--it may be so plugged from sludge that the fuel pressure regulator doesn't direct excess fuel and pressure back to the gas tank. Instead, it's forced out somewhere.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Was it a new pump? Where does it leak?

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It is a new pump and it runs well, but it leaks from where I do not know:confused:

Why do you say that the pump leaks?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Why do you say that the pump leaks?

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Because fuel was dripping from the top of the tank, mostly from the front. When I dropped the tank to check the leak, I noticed residual fuel on the top of the tank near the pump. There was never a leak up there before the pump was changed.

Did you install new copper washers to the banjo bolt and torque it to, I believe, 20 lb.-ft. They are "crush" washers. Check the spring clamp and integrity of the other fuel line.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Did you install new copper washers to the banjo bolt and torque it to, I believe, 20 lb.-ft.? They are "crush" washers. Check the spring clamp and integrity of the other fuel line.

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Yes, the new pump came with them. I torqued everything down.

The Sending Unit is likely located in front of the Fuel Pump on your tank. Did you check the seals to the Sending Unit? I'm just asking the obvious now. Sorry, not much else I can contribute.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

The Sending Unit is likely located in front of the Fuel Pump on your tank. Did you check the seals to the Sending Unit? I'm just asking the obvious now. Sorry, not much else I can contribute.

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THe sending unit is to the right of the fuel pump and is accessible from the trunk through a removable panel. So I have been able to leak check that from the top already.

Still not fixed yet but I think I found out why the new pump assembly is leaking. The bracket on the new pump that secures the banjo bolt does not let the fitting sit flush. I didn't catch at first because with the washers installed on the bolt you can't see the gap. I checked against the old one and without the copper washer the fitting sits flush. On the new one without a washer there is a gap a 16th of an inch on the front side.

So, I think I will just install the pump kit with the strainer and return the assembly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mightyboosh

Still not fixed yet but I think I found out why the new pump assembly is leaking. The bracket on the new pump that secures the banjo bolt does not let the fitting sit flush. I didn't catch at first because with the washers installed on the bolt you can't see the gap. I checked against the old one and without the copper washer the fitting sits flush. On the new one without a washer there is a gap a 16th of an inch on the front side.

So, I think I will just install the pump kit with the strainer and return the assembly.

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Partial success... The pump is installed not leaking and the car turned over!:D

But it is running really rough, the battery is completely dead, and the radiator fan is not running... again. So the fuel delivery system seems OK, but why is it running so rough?

. Remove and fully charge the battery--AutoZone will do this for free. Clean battery terminals and cable connections.

. Install a new fuel filter.

. Add Chevron Techron Fuel Injector Cleaner to the gas.

. Read this link on fixing radiator fans:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1642158

. Install new NGK spark plugs.

. Clean the Idle Air Control Valve:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1054149

. Clean air box, with a damp rag, and replace air filter.