Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    tanjan023's Avatar
    tanjan023 Posts: 6, Reputation: 2
    New Member
     
    #1

    May 13, 2009, 12:45 AM
    I had a clogged toilet. When I plunged it-sewage backed up into my bath tub. I ended up taking the toilet up, running a snake through the dain pipe... and fixed it. The toilet works fine. All other drains in the house are fine-the septic was pumped a few years ago. THE TUB... is still clogged. I bought a dumbbell, took the drain out, (we have a shower in another bathroom so this tub is never used-twice in the last 8 years) there was nothing in the drain. I ran a snake through the drain hole and also took the faceplate off the over flow and ran a different snake about 8 to 10 feet down. It still won't drain. I poured liquid gel plummer down the drain 5 days later it still hasn't gone down. I used a cup to drain all the water from the tub. I can't seem to get the over flow assembly out of the hole. After I took the face plate off, there's a hard plastic piece with a hole where the screw goes in to hold the face plate on. So I have been snaking around the screw hole which sticks out and is about the diameter of a pencil. Should I try to take the assembly out? It seems stuck. Is there a special tool (like there was for the drain) to pull the linkage? I can't even get my finger through the hole because of the plastic piece where the screw goes in to hold the face plate on. This tub's plumbing is all inside the walls-cant see anything. Do you think I broke something off in the linkage/trip lever while I snaked it? I don't want to give up yet-I want to fix it-But The plastic piece which is exposed when you take the face plate off that slides (from what I've read) down into the pipe seems stuck. I'm afraid if I break it, then the sheet rock will need to be cut to get to the pipes? Wrong?
    I appreciate your help! Thanks Janna

    I posted a question about my tub not draining-I guess I left out a few things and I did not use the correct words. I will try this again. I have been calling the face plate the round silver plate that has a large screw in it above the drain. (Near the top of the tub in the center) I read what is on the plate and it says Price Pfeister under the hole which the screw goes in it says Bath Clean Out. When I took that plate off, I ran my snake about 8 ft to 10 ft down to try and get the water to pass through. I thought that was the place to run a snake to clear a clog-not "through the drain hole at the bottom of the tub. I also bought a tub drain wrench to unscrew and take the piece that comes out of the "drain hole" at the bottom of the tub. There was no hair or anything there (this tub is a extra tub in the house-used 4 times or so in the last 8 years) The drain stopper in my tub is a screw in type that you push down on But it stays in the tub on the bottom of the tub-(You can completely unscrew it all the way out and what shows after that is the cross with the hole for the screw-which you just unscrewed all the way out.) There is no lever in the center of the tub under the water spicket to keep the water in the tub. Its just on the bottom of the tub Whatever that style is called. I may have misrepresented that in my last question. I may have called the face plate and linkage and assembly the wrong thing. So I will try to clarify what I can not pull out. The plastic piece that becomes exposed after took the silver plate that says bath clean out. Once it is out...it appears to be a plastic black pipe that runs down but in the center of it is a hole for the screw that held the silver plate on that says bath clean out-Pfister. I don't know if I need to pull that out or not. I hope I am more clear about what I am doing and what I need help with. Thanks so much Janna

    Sorry! I tried to "edit" my question
    I am brand new to this and did not see anywhere to "edit" my question
    That is why I tried to keep the title and my name very visible so they would see its the same person-I tried calling the help desk to ask them and keep getting disconnected

    Tom and Mark thank you for your response. I am sorry that I started a new post. This is the first time I've used Ask Me Help Desk I was informed by another person NOT to start a new post. I did not know how else to respond-Anyway, I started a new post and maybe that will clarify what I am talkin about and what type of drain I have.
    Again, Thank you
    Sincerely,
    Janna


    Hi Mark,
    First, thank you for your concern and help!
    The drain I have is similar to the picture on the far right which you attached in your first response. After I unscrewed the top part and took it out, I used the TubDrain Wrench to uncrew the part that was screwed into the drain hole. Again, there was no hair, lint etc...there was nothing there. As far as the snaking goes, I bought a 1/4 x 25' cable Power Snake and attached it to my power drill. (It has a plastic black "hose?" around the snake) When the snake was 7 ft or so down in the over flow it got stuck, so I gave the drill a bit more throttle and it got so tight (I realized this when I broke it) and the snake was not moving down and turning to release the energy from my drill but it was just getting tighter and tighter until the energy released up by the drill bit and "exploded the plastic piece the snake is attached to-that has the drill bit on on itl" So I went back to the store and got a Drum Auger same size 1/4x 25 ft cable. I was able to get that about 10 ft down or so but I can't seem to get it to go any further. Then, I tried to use a bigger diameter snake (The big guy I used after I pulled my toliet out and stuck down that drain pipe) but it won't make that first turn in the pipe in the tub. Its too stiff. With the Drum Auger snake, I have pushed and pulled and done that over and over by force of my hand but it still seems to be at a stop. (I quit using my drill with it because the snake won't move and it starts to coil up right away in the first 2 inches of the overflow.-I kinked a different snake, and then it seemed worthless because it just wants to coil where the kink is)SO by hand only now.......
    All of the plumbing is in the walls so not able to get to-or see the plumbing (no crawl space etc)-The tub is on the 2nd level of the house. The only thing in the basement- (garage) is a clean out trap (if that's the correct word) which I think connects to ALL of the drain pipes. That is the only clean out trap (?) visible. (It looks like a round pipe poking out of the wall with a square in the middle of it to put your wrench on to unscrew?)
    I didn't know if there are any parts down in the overflow that I need to take out. When I first put the snake in ..about 14 inches (or so) down, it seems like I am hitting a spring loaded latch or something because it sounds like when I back off of it, it closes or something?? Which made me wonder if my clog is somewhere in that area not in the main pipe?-except when I push and release, the water doesnt move down the drain. But the black plastic piece that the bath clean out plate screws on to doesn't seem like it comes out unless I need a special tool. Or maybe I don't need to mess with that part at all??
    I hope I make sense.
    Again, thank you! I greatly appreciate it!
    Janna


    PATTHEPLUMBER
    I think I have been using some wrong words-I dont think I have a lever assembly if I have the type of drain that you plug at the bottom of the tub right? Or do all tubs have that regardless of what type of "drain plug you have?" Its actually a bath clean out (thats what the silver cap says) that I unscrewed and ran my snake down. But I wasn't sure if I needed to pull something else out of that overflow area after taking the "bath clean out plate off" I did try plunging the drain hole on the tub floor several times already with the wet rag stuffed in the over flow hole. It just swooshes the water but it still doesn't drain. I don't know what the shoe of the tub is that you mentioned... what is that? But when my toilet was clogged a bunch of sewage did get in my tub- I pulled my toilet, snaked it, its back in business... and All other drains in the house work fine So I am still dealing with this clogged tub! The liquid gel plummer that the hardware store employee told me to use only got rid of the sewage smell and I scooped the rest of the sewage water out of my tub by cup-the only water left is what is barely visible in the drain hole. Maybe the problem is right there around the tub not 14 feet down in the drain pipe? I just don't know how they connect to the MAIN pipe --how far I would need to snake before it reached the big MAIN pipe.Thank you ! Janna
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #2

    May 13, 2009, 05:49 AM
    Hi Jana, You can not snake a tub through the drain so let's get that stopper assembly out of there. That stopper assembly, (see image) has got to be removed. A steady pull should get it out. As you can see there's nothing holding it.Simply pull up and out. When you replace ikt you can lube the stopper with Vaseline. You may now run your snake down the opening. You'l;l hit a return bent, the trap, about 18" down but omce around that you only have to put out 10 more feet. Good luck, Tom,
    Attached Images
      
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,818, Reputation: 1211
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #3

    May 13, 2009, 06:47 AM
    I'm a little confused Janna... If you have a one hole face plate then there will not be any linkage assembly present in the overflow..?

    You said, " After I took the face plate off, there's a hard plastic piece with a hole where the screw goes in to hold the face plate on. So I have been snaking around the screw hole which sticks out and is about the diameter of a pencil. Should I try to take the assembly out? It seems stuck. Is there a special tool (like there was for the drain) to pull the linkage? I can't even get my finger through the hole because of the plastic piece where the screw goes in to hold the face plate on".

    You also said, "Do you think I broke something off in the linkage/trip lever while I snaked it".

    Need to know if this is a trip lever type of tub waste assembly as in Tom's picture above or is this a tub drain like the picture below?

    If it is like the picture below the chrome face plate gets removed and either the overflow is attached to a spanner bar with 2 screws making it a one hole hanger for the chrome face plate OR the spanner bar at the center will spin off as a unit attached to the overflow... spin off counterclockwise.

    Let us know more here.. O.K.?

    MARK

    Hey Janna... got the info. At the other post. I'm sure Tom will merge them anyway so you're all set there.

    Thanks for the clarification. You were doing all the right things... snaking down the overflow is the right approach. Continue to work the snake just like you have been.. see if you can clear that drain.. may need to go in and out (back and forth) a few times or more.

    Are you using a hand-held snake or an electric hand-held snake? Is this pipe accessible from underneath in the basement..? Let me know... OK?

    MARK
    Attached Images
      
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,379, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #4

    May 13, 2009, 04:48 PM

    You should not start a new post, just add to you old post. You had 2 great plumbers already helping you so go back to https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/plumbi...in-353194.html Tom and Mark will help you get that tub draining


    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/plumbi...in-353194.html
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,379, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #5

    May 13, 2009, 04:55 PM

    You can't edit your question but editing an answer is possible for 24 hrs. Click on the link I gave you and you will be right back with Tom and Mark.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,818, Reputation: 1211
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #6

    May 13, 2009, 05:36 PM
    Hey Janna...

    Thanks for the clarification. You were doing all the right things... snaking down the overflow is the right approach. Continue to work the snake just like you have been.. see if you can clear that drain.. may need to go in and out (back and forth) a few times.

    Is this pipe accessible from underneath in the basement..? Let me know... OK?

    MARK
    pattheplumber's Avatar
    pattheplumber Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #7

    May 13, 2009, 07:42 PM
    You said that you ran your snake threw the overflow my question is did the lever assembly come out before you did so if not your snake will not get down the line ,the lever assembly has to be removed in the passed I used a coat hanger for this ,now because you said it started with your toilet this would indicate a main line stoppage and it is possible toilet paper backed up in your tub ,try putting water down your overflow is it goes we can isolate the problem in the shoe of your tub (this is where your tub drains)if so you can cover the overflow with a wet rag so that it does not get air and plunge the shoe
    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 4,002, Reputation: 251
    Ultra Member
     
    #8

    May 13, 2009, 09:25 PM

    Hello Patteplumber, Welcome to this site.
    Janna is in good hand Tom and Mark are the experts and they have responded with excellent advices, Thanks.

    Regards,
    John
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,818, Reputation: 1211
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #9

    May 14, 2009, 03:51 AM
    Hi Janna:

    OK.. if your tub stopper looks like my second picture then there should NOT be a linkage assembly present in the overflow.

    It would be nice to remove the crossbar at the overflow pipe but since you said you saw no screws and the crossbar doesn't SPIN off counterclockwise AND you have been able to get a snake as far down as you have I think we'll concentrate on unclogging the drain... O.K.

    I wonder if you have an ACCESS PANEL behind the tub wall.. If not, you should probably cut one in at this point... can always plug off the hole using a spring-loaded access panel (sold at home depot for $10.00... see 1st picture) for future access. If an access panel is present or you can open one up, I would have you see what kind of trap you have behind the tub... a PTRAP (2nd picture) or a DRUMTRAP (3rd picture).

    If Ptrap then the snake should meet some resistance into the drain at about 18" and then after that it should go pretty smooth. If drum trap is present then you can't snake this drain without getting into the drum trap itself and then cleaning the drum trap and then snaking from the drum trap out to drains. Since the asssembly is ABS plastic, you may be able to disconnect the overflow and then snake directly from the overflow in back of the tub.

    The snake should not need to go any further than the distance between the tub and the toilet... tub should connect directly into the toilet drain upstairs... so maybe 8-10 feet away... maximum (usually).

    And finally, Janna... if you call a reputable plumber in your area he may be able to unclog this drain quickly for less than you might think... ;) Never hurts to call a local guy and see what he would charge... could be about as much as you have spent on tools so far... never know so as a last resort... keep that in mind, too!

    Try these things first... let me know what you think...

    MARK
    Attached Images
       
    tanjan023's Avatar
    tanjan023 Posts: 6, Reputation: 2
    New Member
     
    #10

    May 15, 2009, 12:19 AM

    Hi Mark
    I don't have an access panel that is visible. All of the pipes/drains are in the walls (except what is visible under the sinks) I DO get some resistance about 18" into the drain and then it does feed down about 10 feet or so- So it sounds like the Ptrap...but I use alot of muscle power with the 1/4" snake getting it to feed down 10 feet. Its not like putting a straw into a drink- for sure! I think you are right-I have put A lot of time and effort into this drain-and like you said-the money I have spent on my tools! I will check the yellow pages tomorrow morning. I really appreciate all of your advice and help SO MUCH-And crazy as it seems-I really enjoyed doing what I could on my own-Makes me appreciate a plumber even more! Thank you so much!
    Sincerely,
    Janna
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,818, Reputation: 1211
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #11

    May 15, 2009, 03:54 AM
    Hey Janna...

    Sorry we couldn't help you unclog the line... sounds like some stuff got up the tub drain when the main bathroom drain was clogged and that it will take a few tricks to clear the drain.

    If you are unhappy with the estimates or you decide you still want to mess with this then open up a sizable access panel in the wall behind the tub pipes and then pop back and we'll try a couple other things... anytime!

    MARK
    tanjan023's Avatar
    tanjan023 Posts: 6, Reputation: 2
    New Member
     
    #12

    May 16, 2009, 12:42 AM

    Hi Mark
    Sounds like a good plan. I did not get around to calling a plumber today-just glad to have made it through the work week :) I hope to do that next week! I will post back to let you know what sort of gadget was in the pipes Ha-Thanks a million
    Janna

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Connecting to 1 1/2" copper drain with pvc kitchen sink drain trap [ 8 Answers ]

I'm trying to rehook up the kitchen sink pvc trap to the old copper drain pipe but the connector doesn't fit tight enough and the water links out. Any ideas how to stop this leak?

Vent for Washing Machine Drain Attached to Existing Drain Line [ 0 Answers ]

"Current setup for a washing machine has the discharge hose "hooked" into a laundry tub. Tennants would like something more "permanent." The laundry tub has a normal trap followed by a horizontal run of about 2 feet (2" threaded pipe) then "T's" into a vertical drain/vent. The vent line goes...

Copper sink drain too slow, not clogged which type drain is best [ 2 Answers ]

We just refinished bathroom with double vanity copper sinks. They have a flat grid drain in the bottom, not vented. Is there a different drain that would allow the water to drain easier? We have to swirl water or stir water to get it to begin draining, like there is a suction...

Outgoing Drain Behind Vanity Cabinet Not Aligned with Sink Drain Tube in New Sinktop [ 1 Answers ]

I'm installing a new vanity cabinet and new marble vanity top, both slightly larger than the originals. The problem we've encountered is that the drainage pipe that will exit sink water from the sink to the house -- the PVC pipe in the house/wall -- is not aligned with the new location of the sink...


View more questions Search