Toilet flange above floor level
I've seen plenty about the opposite problem - maybe this is something less common: my toilet flange is above the anticipated floor level. I recently removed old tile from the bathroom floor, planning to install new tile. In so doing, I discovered that the old tile was set on about 3 inches of thinset/mortar - which had effectively built up the floor 3 inches. Now once that's been removed, I've got a toilet flange with a base/bottom approx 3 inches above the floor boards. Once the new concrete backing board and tile is placed on the floor, I'll probably still have a couple of inches of flange protruding from floor level. Is there a safe way to push the flange down into or towards the drain somewhat? I haven't checked for sure yet, but I think that it's a straight (unbent) flange - unless there isn't such a thing. HELP!
Thanks,
Re: toilet flange above floor level
Tom:
Thanks for the quick reply - it's a cast iron flange.
ABS & flange too far above floor
Quote:
Originally Posted by labman
Can you find 2 places where you have a couple of inches of pipe that could accept a coupling? <snip> Black PVC? Make sure it is not ABS.
Unfortunately the flange is slightly angled to go into a long sweep elbow, which has a short piece of pipe (black ABS) connecting it to a long sweep Y. The short length of pipe is just barely long enough to cut, but not long enough to glue anything to.
We could possibly use on of the flexible couplings on it if we could attach it on at leat one end to the elbow , rather than to pipe - is this feasible? Out only other option seems to be to take it all out to the junction at the other end of that long Y - but that's really beyond our skills, I think, and we'd need a plumber.
Thanks for your help so far.
Jeanne
Installing a Closet Flange
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1timer
I hope I'm not hijacking this thread, but this is close to what I'm experiencing. I believe I have 3 inch pvc long turn or sweep wye coming up from the bottom. The closet flange that goes on top of this is not level and it is three and a half inches from the floor. I've read this thread and I'm hoping the response pertains to me. Obviously I want to lower the flange and or pipe to the ground and have it leveled. I will be installing ceramic tile and mortar, so I would have to include this in making sure that everything fits flush. Will this quote "Simply cut the old flange off at the floor line, making sure that you file, sand or cut back any part that isn't level with the floor line and then glue in a new 3" PVC flange" solve my problem or will I have to bust the cement back up again and go with another aproach. thank you.
Install your ceramic tile, leaving a 3/8" opening around the 3" PVC for the new flange to slip over and then to use your words, "Simply cut the old flange and PVC off at the floor line, making sure that you file, sand or cut back any part that isn't level with the floor line and then glue in a new 3" PVC flange".
That should get the job done. Regards, Tom
3" Copper Plumbing Return
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedball1
You gave us all the information we need except what material the flange is made of and what secures it to the copper pipe. We have to know this in order to help. Let us know and get a answer back ASAP. Are you the same Henny with a cabin you wish to add a bathroom to? Tom
Tom,
I'm a different Henny, not wealthy enough to afford a cabin! :) Upon closer examination of the flange it appears that they took a flange (cast metal, it appears & feels) and caulked it to the exterior of the 3"+ OD copper return tube.... kind of a Jerry-Rigged arrangement, but possibly the way it has been for the whole 40 years of this houses' existence.
I was thinking about the following to remedy the situation. Above the supply tubes that run horizontal, but right next to the 3"+ pipe, I would cut off the pipe and find one of those rubber (vinyl?) adapters with the worm gear clamps to clamp onto the OD of the copper pipe and step it up to 4" PVC. I would then use one of the "slip-in" flanges for a 4" pipe that have allen head screws on the inside that expand a seal outward to create the seal between the 4" PVC and the adapter peice. My only real worry with a set-up like this is the potential for external leakage at the joint between the smaller ID of the rubber peice and the OD of the 3" copper pipe... Thought I might be able to improve the robustness of the joint if I were to be able to form some type of a bead on the OD of the copper pipe, but don't know a practical way to accomplish such a thing given my confined space. I also don't know if it is even a concern given the very low pressure that the return side of the plumbing typically sees.
Thanks for giving this your thought and Best Regards!!