Hello -

I don't have very many details, since I don't know where to start. We live in South Carolina, and our home is just one story. We have a well with a pump, the water pressure inside the house is very strange. When you turn on the water in the house/tub, it may trickle for up to 4-5 minutes, and then we will get a blast of full pressure, then it will start to slow down again. This issue has been going on for months now.

In the garage we have a tank, which I guess is some type of water filtration system to pull out the sand in the water, not sure if that helps.

I really don't know where to start.

Also, I have a Sprinkler System, which we don't use, and it does have a couple small leaks that I know of. I have been wanting to disable the Sprinkler system to see if there is some underground leak, but I don't really even know what to do or where to start.

Any ideas ? I can provide more details hopefully if you have specific questions.

What kind of well do you have? Is the pump in the garage or is it at the bottom of the well? Does the tank have a pressure gauge on it or close by? Is there something on the top of the tank that look like a tire valve stem? Do all of your valves act this way of just the tub?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hkstroud

What kind of well do you have? Is the pump in the garage or is it at the bottom of the well? Does the tank have a pressure gauge on it or close by? Is there some thing on the top of the tank that look like a tire valve stem? Do all of your valves act this way of just the tub?

---

What kind of well do you have ? I don't really know, the pump is out in the yard, I am guessing at the bottom of the well, the pump/pipes are under one of those fake rock enclosures in the yard.

In the side room in the garage, is where the water comes into a pre-charged air tank, the water leaves there and goes through a sand filter, and then into the hot water heater.

Yes, there is a tire valve stem in the garage coming from the ACE Precharged Water System Tank (That's is what is on the Tank). I don't see any pressure gauge on it, or close by.

All valves act this way in the whole house. My very weak diagram shows the water path, this is what is in the garage... Pre-charged Tank to inline Sand Filter, to Water Heater.



Tank ____ sand _
Tank | |
Tank | |
Tank _____| |_______waterheater

Should have ask, does this happen with both hot and cold?

When is the last time you flushed the sand trap tank?

When is the last time you flushed the water heater?

Press the air valve on the pressure tank for a few seconds, do you get air or do you get water?

Go to the well head, a pressure gauge should be there as well as the pressure switch. Have some one open a faucet, watch what happens to the pressure gauge.

I don't really follow you schematic. Save the picture below to you computer. Open with Paint. Use cut, copy, and paste to move things around.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hkstroud

Should have ask, does this happen with both hot and cold?

When is the last time you flushed the sand trap tank?

When is the last time you flushed the water heater?

Press the air valve on the pressure tank for a few seconds, do you get air or do you get water?

Go to the well head, a pressure gauge should be there as well as the pressure switch. Have some one open a faucet, watch what happens to the pressure gauge.

I don't really follow you schematic. Save the picture below to you computer. Open with Paint. Use cut, copy, and paste to move things around.

---

Happens Hot and Cold


Sand Trap Tank - The whole plastic housing was changed out this past weekend due to a crack in the housing, right now it's clean, no sand, new filter.

Water Heater - Water Heater is less than six months old, have not flushed it yet.

At the well head, I don't see any pressure gauge. I did just find a pressure gage near the pressure tank in the garage room, it's reading between 20/30. I think the switch is also there?

When I just opened a faucet the pressrue gauge did not move, and the water is trickling out. About 4-5 minutes later, the pressure picks up (Just noting same behavior)

I have just taken some digital photos of the outside well head, and the equipment inside for you to have a better look.

I just uploaded a few digital photos of the situation for your review. Let me know if you can see them or I can email them to you. I could only upload 3 this time.

Thanks for your continued help.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Network_Admin

Happens Hot and Cold


Sand Trap Tank - The whole plastic housing was changed out this past weekend due to a crack in the housing, right now it's clean, no sand, new filter.

Water Heater - Water Heater is less than six months old, have not flushed it yet.

At the well head, I don't see any pressure gauge. I did just find a pressure gage near the pressure tank in the garage room, it's reading between 20/30. I think the switch is also there ??

When I just opened a faucet the pressrue gauge did not move, and the water is trickling out. About 4-5 minutes later, the pressure picks up (Just noting same behavior)

I have just taken some digital photos of the outside well head, and the equipment inside for you to have a better look.

I just uploaded a few digital photos of the situation for your review. Let me know if you can see them or I can email them to you. I could only upload 3 this time.

Thanks for your continued help.

---

To add - Pressing air valve on pressure tank brings air not water

I don't see a sand trap tank. I only see a pressure (really a bladder tank) , a filter and a water heater. That thing next to the pressure gauge is the well pressure switch.

Am I understanding correctly that as the flow at the faucet changed there was no change in the pressure gauge?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hkstroud

I don't see a sand trap tank. I only see a pressure (really a bladder tank) , a filter and a water heater. That thing next to the pressure gauge is the well pressure switch.

Am I understanding correctly that as the flow at the faucet changed there was no change in the pressure gauge?

---

Correct, I just got down on my hands and knees, looked directly at the pressure gage, and had the wife turn on the kitchen sink faucet, the gage did not move a bit. Still sitting in the middle between 20/30

BTW - The cover on the pressure switch says it's a SquareD PumpTrol

Sorry to mislead you on the sand trap tank, I was referencing the filter, since it does catch sand.

Sometimes this happens - Turn on the faucet (Any) trickle for 3-5 minutes, then the water stops completely, then full pressure blast, then it starts to slow again.

You either have a blockage or the pump and tank are not set up properly.

First blockage. The blockage has to be between the pump and the water heater since you experience the lack of volume on both the hot and cold. The only things between the pump and the water heater are the tank, the filter and two ball valves. I take it that you replace the clear plastic cover on the filter only , not the complete filter. I know that because of the rust on the old galvanized fittings. What is the red button on the filter?

One or both valves could be blocked but they are ball valves and not easily blocked. The remaining thing is the tank. It could have the bottom filled with sand if you have a lot of sand in your water.

The other thing is the proper set up of the tank. Twenty to 30 lbs is awfully low. Right now I don't know if that is the cut on or cut off pressure. Usual pressure settings are a 20 lb spread, usually cut on at 30 and cut off at 50 or cut on at 40 and cut off at 60.

First things first. Open a faucet, watch and listen to the switch. When the points close (the pump comes on) note the pressure. Close the faucet. When the points open (pump turns off) note the pressure gauge again. Also note how long it took to reach cut off pressure.
Turn off the breakers to the pump. Drain the entire system. Check the air pressure in the tank with a tire gauge. Adjust tank pressure to 30lbs. Adjust switch cut on pressure, that should be the short screw, to where points are just closed. Tightening should increase, loosening should decrease setting. Reduce tank pressure to 28 lbs.
Turn breakers on. Let pump run and adjust cut off pressure, should be tall screw, so that pump turns off at 50 lbs. Also note time.

Remember this time that electrical connections are live.

Net, have you tried bypassing the filter?

The first thing I would do is increase the pressure at the control box. I would increase it to 50 PSI cut off pressure. If you need instructions on how to do this click on back. Is there a check valve any where up on top? It sounds like you have a submersible pump with a faulty foot valve that's allowing the water to drain back down from the surface. The delay happens when the water has to be drawn up from below. I would install a check valve and see if that doesn't stop the delay. Good luck, Tom

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by speedball1

The first thing I would do is increase the pressure at the control box. I would increase it to 50 PSI cut off pressure. If you need instructions on how to do this click on back. Is there a check valve any where up on top? It sounds like you have a submersible pump with a faulty foot valve that's allowing the water to drain back down from the surface. The delay happens when the water has to be drawn up from below. I would install a check valve and see if that doesn't stop the delay. Good luck, Tom

---

I guess I will be having to call a plumber ? I don't have the skill set to install a check valve, or even know what it is. How do I find a plumber that works well wells ?

How do you increase the pressure at the control switch, by turning the screw down ? I have done that, I have turned the short screw down 2 turns and the behavior is not getting any better. Pressure in the bladder tank is 15.5 with tire gauge. (I clicked back but did not get anywhere)

I have another pressure control switch that I can swap out, it's a Square D pumptrol. Do you think this could help at all, someone suggested the pressure control switch may be bad. What do you think.

Thanks

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hkstroud

You either have a blockage or the pump and tank are not set up properly.

First blockage. The blockage has to be between the pump and the water heater since you experience the lack of volume on both the hot and cold. The only things between the pump and the water heater are the tank, the filter and two ball valves. I take it that you replace the clear plastic cover on the filter only , not the complete filter. I know that because of the rust on the old galvanized fittings. What is the red button on the filter?

One or both valves could be blocked but they are ball valves and not easily blocked. The remaining thing is the tank. It could have the bottom filled with sand if you have a lot of sand in your water.

The other thing is the proper set up of the tank. Twenty to 30 lbs is awfully low. Right now I don't know if that is the cut on or cut off pressure. Usual pressure settings are a 20 lb spread, usually cut on at 30 and cut off at 50 or cut on at 40 and cut off at 60.

First things first. Open a faucet, watch and listen to the switch. When the points close (the pump comes on) note the pressure. Close the faucet. When the points open (pump turns off) note the pressure gauge again. Also note how long it took to reach cut off pressure.
Turn off the breakers to the pump. Drain the entire system. Check the air pressure in the tank with a tire gauge. Adjust tank pressure to 30lbs. Adjust switch cut on pressure, that should be the short screw, to where points are just closed. Tightening should increase, loosening should decrease setting. Reduce tank pressure to 28 lbs.
Turn breakers on. Let pump run and adjust cut off pressure, should be tall screw, so that pump turns off at 50 lbs. Also note time.

Remember this time that electrical connections are live.

---

That part in the picture you can see is the spicket to let the water out of the bladder tank. When I open a faucet the pressure is between 20/30, when the pump finally cuts on, the pressure does not change on the gauge, it's always the same. I have yet to drain the bladder tank, I need a hose end to put on it, don't have it right now. Current pressure in bladder tank is 15.5 with digital gauge. I tried to pump it up with a pump that plugs into the cigarette lighter for the car, but it would not increase, I guess there is no need to try and get any more air in the tank if I have not drained it yet ? I wonder if a portable air tank would work for that.

If you have only 15 lbs of tank pressure I think you have found your problem. Go through the set up procedure as described. Not necessary to drain entire system. Turn both valves off. Turn pump breakers off. Connect hose to tank drain. Empty tank of all water. Pressurize tank with drain valve open. You can use a portable air tank if you don't have a compressor . You can even pump it up with a bicycle pump but it will take a while. Portable air tank may take more than one tank of air. Watch pressure gauge, it may be defective.

First turn off the power at the breaker box, then pull the cover off the pressure switch and you will see two spring loaded bolts secured with nylon nuts,(see image) One tall, one short. To increase the pressure, turn the nut on the tall bolt down. This will increase both the cut in and the cut out points. If you just want to increase the cut out pressure without increasing the cut in point then turn the nut on the short bolt down. Good luck, Tom

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hkstroud

If you have only 15 lbs of tank pressure I think you have found your problem. Go through the set up procedure as described. Not necessary to drain entire system. Turn both valves off. Turn pump breakers off. Connect hose to tank drain. Empty tank of all water. Pressurize tank with drain valve open. You can use a portable air tank if you don't have a compressor . You can even pump it up with a bicycle pump but it will take a while. Portable air tank may take more than one tank of air. Watch pressure gauge, it may be defective.

---

So far so good, I completed the steps, and so far it's working again. I will update tomorrow after it makes a full day. Thanks a bunch for all of your help.

Good. Give us an update tomorrow. Next thing you are going to do is put a stop valve on the sprinkler system. I agree with Tom that you are probably losing pressure back down the well line. But since you seem to suspect a leak in the sprinkler, I think that is where its is rather than the pump foot valve.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hkstroud

Good. Give us an update tomorrow. Next thing you are going to do is put a stop valve on the sprinkler system. I agree with Tom that you are probably losing pressure back down the well line. But since you seem to suspect a leak in the sprinkler, I think that is where its is rather than the pump foot valve.

---

I want to completely disable the sprinkler system, when you go back and reference the picture of my pump head earlier in the posting, is the pipe that has a T in it where they spliced in to run the sprinkler system? Could I not completely seal it off right there. I don't have a clue where any of the solenoids are in the yard. Some things you just don't think about looking into when buying a house...

Yes, you can cut pipe as shown and cap. Cap both pipes. You can also install a PVC stop valve. Just need a valve, a coupling and a short length of pipe. Have to dig around lower pipe so it can move up and down about 1". Use the blue Wet or Dry PVC glue so you can turn pump back on immediately after.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hkstroud

Yes, you can cut pipe as shown and cap. Cap both pipes. You can also install a PVC stop valve. Just need a valve, a coupling and a short length of pipe. Have to dig around lower pipe so it can move up and down about 1". Use the blue Wet or Dry PVC glue so you can turn pump back on immediately after.

---

Thanks again. I think I understand, but I don't under stand what you mean about "dig around lower pipe so it can move up and down about 1"

I understand the two options, but I don't understand about the pipe and it even being able to move ?

Thanks !

Pipes fit inside of fittings. In order to get the last piece in you have to be able to move one or the other up or down to get it in. How would you get the valve of the attached sketch, in the line if you couldn't move either pipe up or down?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hkstroud

Pipes fit inside of fittings. In order to get the last piece in you have to be able to move one or the other up or down to get it in. How would you get the valve of the attached sketch, in the line if you couldn't move either pipe up or down?

---

Thanks for clearing that up, now it makes sense...

Ok here is how the plumbing went this morning -

Cut on shower, had immediate pressure, strong pressure, pressure slowly leveled off, and then about 5 minutes into the shower the water supply stopped, but just for 20-30 seconds, and then it was back again. So we have definitely changed the behavior. It's at least useable again.

Could it just be the water level is low in the well due to the suspected sprinkler leaks ? I think I will go after that issue next, unless you guys have other suggestions.

Thanks

Yes, let's take the sprinkler out of the system. Sounds like a delay in water getting to the tank when the pump comes on. It will be good practice if you have to put in a check valve.

Also increase well cut on pressure up about 5 lbs. In other words turn the nut on the big screw about 1/2 turn.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hkstroud

Yes, let's take the sprinkler out of the system. Sounds like a delay in water getting to the tank when the pump comes on. It will be good practice if you have to put in a check valve.

Also increase well cut on pressure up about 5 lbs. In other words turn the nut on the big screw about 1/2 turn.

---

Things have taken a turn for the worst this morning, I woke up this morning, planning on sealing of the sprinkler system, and I had no water... Great..

Right now, the water pump breaker which is two breakers tied together in the breaker box, keeps tripping out, I have not changed a thing. If I force the breaker on, and yes it's harder than what I expect it to be, it may run for a little while, and then I can hear it snap and trip to the middle position. When the breaker turns on, I get water for a little while either until the breaker trips or the water just stops again because the pump did not cut back on...

Any ideas ? Or is it time for me to make a call ?

Is the cable going to the pump buried? If so, then turn off the breaker and disconnect the wires at the switch. Making sure the disconnected wires are not touching anything, turn the breakers back on. If they trip again, then you know the buried cable is your problem. If not, then you probably have pump problems or possibly (not likely) a weak breaker.

BTW, I think you're barking up the wrong tree with trying to connect your sprinkler system with your water problems. It might be that the sprinkler system has leaks, but if it did, you would notice the pump cycling at times when there would be no water being used in the house. Additionally, if you spent a few minutes watching the pressure gauge, you would notice pressure falling slowly when no water was being used.

Not good news at all.

Sounds like pump has gone bad or well is dry. Leave breakers off for a while. With breakers off, start checking all the wiring. Make sure nothing is touching the wiring at the pump switch, I assume it is still uncovered. If you don't find any obvious defect in the wiring you are going to have to assume that either the pump is defective or the water level in the well has dropped. If the water level in the well has dropped the pump could be over heating and cause breaker to trip.

If you don't find an electrical problem you are going to have to make the call. Wait a while if you can. If it's water level it may build back up temporarily.

Check everything electrical above ground. Hope for electrical problem. If it's not electrical, hope for a pump problem because otherwise it's a new well.

Do you know how deep the well is?

jlisenbe,

I suspect that there is a check valve under all that electrical tape at the well head. If that is correct and you have a leaking sprinkler system, that could explain the interruption that apparently occurs when the pump comes on.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hkstroud

Not good news at all.

Sounds like pump has gone bad or well is dry. Leave breakers off for a while. With breakers off, start checking all the wiring. Make sure nothing is touching the wiring at the pump switch, I assume it is still uncovered. If you don't find any obvious defect in the wiring you are going to have to assume that either the pump is defective or the water level in the well has dropped. If the water level in the well has dropped the pump could be over heating and cause breaker to trip.

If you don't find an electrical problem you are going to have to make the call. Wait a while if you can. If it's water level it may build back up temporarily.

Check everything electrical above ground. Hope for electrical problem. If it's not electrical, hope for a pump problem because otherwise it's a new well.

Do you know how deep the well is?

jlisenbe,

I suspect that there is a check valve under all that electrical tape at the well head. If that is correct and you have a leaking sprinkler system, that could explain the interruption that apparently occurs when the pump comes on.

---

Here is the latest update, and I thought, just thought I had the issue fixed this morning. I decided to take the pressure switch off and have a look, when I took it off and turned it over it was completely stopped up with rust, even the fitting was completely stopped up, it's hard to believe it was sensing any pressure at all. I also took the pressure gauge off, which I told you in the past post that it was not really moving. I replaced the pressure gauge since I had one, and cleaned out the pressure gauge. Put everything back together and it really seemed to be doing fine, like that was the problem, the gauge was actually changing finally. I knew that had to be the issue.

Two or Three hours later... I turn on the bathroom sink, nothing. Go outside and see there is again zero pressure on the dial, check the breaker it's in the middle like it had tripped again. Then I turned the breaker back on and still nothing. I tapped the pressure switch and the pump came on, not sure if it was my tap or it was just it's time. So I don't really know again what the issue is. I checked and tightened all of the electrical, (also unwrapped wire harness at pump head and no check valve there).

I guess I will go patch off the sprinkler at the well head, to make sure it's not bringing the well level down too low. I hope it's not the pump. I do get sand in the sand trap very quickly, maybe the water is low and I am sucking sand ? I don't know.

This is crazy...

Clogged pressure switch would cause the pump to delay coming on. Could cause it to not shut off and over work the pump. That also explains why you would say earlier that you had "strong pressure". I think that you have found your problem.
Check your operating pressures now that you have a new pressure gauge. If you are getting a lot of sand you may want to install a true sand trap. A sand trap is just another tank between the pump and the pressure tank. You pump into the center (vertical tank) and out of the top to the pressure tank.
That allows the water to sit in the tank for a while and let the sand to settle to the bottom. Sand trap would be a regular galvanized pressure tank, not a bladder tank like you currently have.

Sorry, I should have considered a blocked switch possibility earlier.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hkstroud

Clogged pressure switch would cause the pump to delay coming on. Could cause it to not shut off and over work the pump. That also explains why you would say earlier that you had "strong pressure". I think that you have found your problem.
Check your operating pressures now that you have a new pressure gauge. If you are getting a lot of sand you may want to install a true sand trap. A sand trap is just another tank between the pump and the pressure tank. You pump into the center (vertical tank) and out of the top to the pressure tank.
That allows the water to sit in the tank for a while and let the sand to settle to the bottom. Sand trap would be a regular galvanized pressure tank, not a bladder tank like you currently have.

Sorry, I should have considered a blocked switch possibility earlier.

---

Well, I thought that was the full problem, but the blocked switch probably has damaged the pump ? Right now, we have a new switch in place, but it just continues to trip out, constantly having to reset the breaker to get any water. I guess we will have to try and get by like this until we can have someone out to look at it. When the breaker trips, and you are outside looking at the pressure switch, you can see a blue spark. Sometimes when you reset the breaker it will last for a few minutes sometimes an hour or so. Not a good chance of having anyone take a look at this on the weekend. Yea, I think I need a whole new "Updated" setup.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Network_Admin

Well, I thought that was the full problem, but the blocked switch probably has damaged the pump ? Right now, we have a new switch in place, but it just continues to trip out, constantly having to reset the breaker to get any water. I guess we will have to try and get by like this until we can have someone out to look at it. When the breaker trips, and you are outside looking at the pressure switch, you can see a blue spark. Sometimes when you reset the breaker it will last for a few minutes sometimes an hour or so. Not a good chance of having anyone take a look at this on the weekend. Yea, I think I need a whole new "Updated" setup.

---

Strangely now sometimes even when I get the breaker to stay on, and nothing is happening with the pump, if I go out and tap on the pressure switch or mainly the fixture underneath it with a wrench the pump "Wakes Up" . Does make me wonder if even my new pressure switch has reclogged again quickly? I may take it off again tomorrow and look.

If it does come to having to have someone out to replace the submersible pump, how much cost do you think I am looking at, I imagine it will be crazy.

Yes, you could still have debris in the pipe to the switch unless you cleaned it well. Where are you seeing the blue spark, at the breaker or at the switch? The switch you installed was an old one you had laying around, right?

You could be having a attack by Murphy's laws.

Shut down and drain system. Remove switch and make a direct connection to pump wires. Tape up electrical connections well with tape, move as far away as possible. Cover switch piping with bucket, turn on breakers and let pump blow out switch piping. You are going to get water on the floor. As soon as pipe opening is clear turn off breakers. Reinstall switch to block opening. Turn on breakers to see what system does. Of course turn off breaker when pressure reaches 60lbs.

This problem only showed up after you changed switches. Burned points in the switch could be reducing voltage, increasing amperage causing breaker to trip.

Edit;

The more I think about it, the more a likely a bad switch sounds.
Where in SC you located?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hkstroud

Yes, you could still have debris in the pipe to the switch unless you cleaned it well. Where are you seeing the blue spark, at the breaker or at the switch? The switch you installed was an old one you had laying around, right?

You could be having a attack by Murphy's laws.

Shut down and drain system. Remove switch and make a direct connection to pump wires. Tape up electrical connections well with tape, move as far away as possible. Cover switch piping with bucket, turn on breakers and let pump blow out switch piping. You are going to get water on the floor. As soon as pipe opening is clear turn off breakers. Reinstall switch to block opening. Turn on breakers to see what system does. Of course turn off breaker when pressure reaches 60lbs.

This problem only showed up after you changed switches. Burned points in the switch could be reducing voltage, increasing amperage causing breaker to trip.

Edit;

The more I think about it, the more a likely a bad switch sounds.
Where in SC you located?

---

Blue Spark at the pressure switch, switch was not one laying around, it was a brand new in box Square D identical switch that Father in law bought but did not use.

Actually I was having some breaker trips before replacing the switch. It's just worse now. When the pump does stay up and running for awhile, cut in is 30 cut off is 50, so I think all of that is working.

Yea your idea may be good, to blow all the debris out if any is left. I also need an amp meter to see if one of the legs may be pulling too much current ? The breaker is a dual 20, and I suppose it could be weak, I opened the panel and tightened down on it.


Manning, SC

Not a bad idea to replace breaker. Originally from Johnsonville.

Net, check your wiring around the switch carefully to be sure there are no breaks in the insulation that could arc to the metal frame of the switch. If the grey cover is on the switch, you should not be seeing a spark when the switch points close. That sounds strange.

As long as the little tube going to the switch is even halfway open, the switch will work. It only needs pressure, not volume.

I had a breaker throwing one time. Replaced the buried cable (the old one was plainly nicked up) and problem went away for a while. Then, we began having the same problem. A little trouble shooting isolated the problem to the wire going down the well to the pump. It was just a small area, the size of nail head, that had lost insulation, but that was enough. It would arc against the metal casing. The wiring was old, so that didn't help. That's why I'm really suspicious of your electrical cable. In fact, if you have enough slack, I'd cut back the cable a foot or so and go with wire which hasn't been pulled and bent so much coming into and out of the switch.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jlisenbe

Net, check your wiring around the switch carefully to be sure there are no breaks in the insulation that could arc to the metal frame of the switch. If the grey cover is on the switch, you should not be seeing a spark when the switch points close. That sounds strange.

As long as the little tube going to the switch is even halfway open, the switch will work. It only needs pressure, not volume.

I had a breaker throwing one time. Replaced the buried cable (the old one was plainly nicked up) and problem went away for a while. Then, we began having the same problem. A little trouble shooting isolated the problem to the wire going down the well to the pump. It was just a small area, the size of nail head, that had lost insulation, but that was enough. It would arc against the metal casing. The wiring was old, so that didn't help. That's why I'm really suspicious of your electrical cable. In fact, if you have enough slack, I'd cut back the cable a foot or so and go with wire which hasn't been pulled and bent so much coming into and out of the switch.

---

Monday morning, I woke up with no water again, so me being the bright one, I went out to the pressure switch and tapped on it so that maybe I could get a shower in before work. Lucky me as the fixture below the pressure switch cracked, and water was spewing everywhere. That's all I could take, lol...

I called a local plumber, had him out, explained the situation and left him with it to go to work. I got home last night and everything was working, he had re-configured the piping around the pressure switch, as there was not much room to work with, and I saw that he had a new electric wire run from the presssure switch to the pump head. So it may have been a bad wire like you said. So far so good anyway, I have not spoken to him yet, I guess he hooked up the new wire and wanted to see if the issue will still happen. From the time I got home last night, through this morning, it was working without issue.

We will see how it goes.

Thanks