Hello,

Ok so I'm looking for some help with a new basement bathroom.

Our home is a 1970's ranch, I am working on installing a bathroom into the basement, I was going to go with a Saniflo system for a full bathroom. However I had a relative come over this weakened and say that its pretty easy to install one once you cut up the cement, and I was never that confident in using a "crap" pump.

So my question is this, the bathroom is going to have the waste pipe running right through it from upstairs, so distance is close to the waste pipe, once I cut up the cement what do I do, how do I cut into the iron waste pipe, I know how to cut in to it above ground but not bellow, the basement has plumbing running through it under ground for the utility sink and a half bath upstairs, and there is a stink pipe about ten ft from this stack.

Im thinking about using a pump for the shower and sink still since I have planned for that and am confident I can do that, however I would like to do the toilet. And its a lot cheaper to use a conventional toilet.

Thanks

Here is a picture of the instlation...

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0823082312.jpg

Notes:
The tile is laminate tile , also the drain for a utility sink is inline with this waste stack in the next room over, as is another vent. I am suspecting that the pipe has an elbow that connects the lines? (relitive to this picture, the right side) also the basment has 2 drains built into the floor
This waste line turns into a vent after the toilet on the first floor feeds into it, also the shower and sinks from above empty into it.

It is doable... but it is lots of work, and lot of mess, for somebody who is not familiar with plumbing work and who doesn't have professional tools. Is there any way you could raise your floor 8" ?

Anyways: You will have to cut concrete to get to the pipe under the slab. Cut out chunk large enough so you can work with pipe cutting tools below the floor. Remove that clean-out "Y" that sticks up from the ground. ( Cut either 2" above the Hub or right below the Hub. Don't cut right at the Hub or you will have hard time connecting couplings ). You will probably have to cut off another 6" or so from the bottom pipe to compensate for the height of your 4"x3" closet bend 90. (Here, you have to pray that clean-out was not sitting directly on top of vertical-to-horizontal transitional fitting. If that's the case, than you would have to connect to horizontal pipe using slightly different installation approach) Install new 3" sanitary "T" with 2 - No Hub couplings. Distribute your new waste lines as per your new bathroom design.

Once you've gone so far, you can probably run rest of the drains under slab. You can use ABS instead of Cast Iron under slab. ABS is cheaper and easier to work with...

Hi MK:

As stated by Milo... you can do it if you want too.

Most important when messing with a cast iron stack will be to support that cast iron stack before you even begin to think about cutting into it! Not only could you destroy your plumbing upstairs if stack falls after cutting into it, but could also get seriously hurt if plumbing came down on you... ok? This part is not to be taken lightly!! Here, once you expose pipe and are ready to cut into the stack you take some 2"x4" studs and you support under fitting hub at highest point above the floor (or use a riser clamp and post under this... see last pic.)... use 2 or 3 studs if possible and kind of hammer them in so tight between floor and fitting... ok?

That being said, you will open the concrete to a 4 foot hole or so (rent a chipping hammer or similar tool), dig out to below the pipe and then use a sawzall with a LENNOX diamond cutting blade to cut into the cast iron stack. You could also use a ratchet snap cutter but I don't recommend it here as it can crush the pipe and make this a bigger job then it needs to be).

You would cut a 3" no-hub cast iron sanitary tee fitting into the stack if cutting into vertical pipe. If cutting into horizontal pipe use a 3" no-hub WYE fitting.

You would use shielded clamps or the 4-banded husky clamps to connect the fitting in between the cut sections of the pipe (see pictures below). You cannot use the two-banded rubber fernco couplings sold at home depot for this (see pic. Of last clamp).

I say you open the floor up , dig around pipes and then post us a picture of what is happening under the floor. See what we can do from there...

Let us know what you think!

MARK

This all sounds good... so once I cut up the cement, these pipes are buried under some dirt? Also if I need a 4tf space how do I have a spot to support the stack.

How much "waste" is possibly in these lines?

What about the cement around the pipes themselves? How do I get that out of the way.

And... should I use iron? Or pvc?

So I made a drawing, its not the best.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...x5oh/plumb.jpg

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...12NEWSTUFF.jpg
This is how I want it to be laid out...

So I am wondering once I cut though do I need slope in my pipes for the drains and run to them to a "T" or do I branch the main pipe over to the shower and sink. Should I rase the base for the p trap under the shower? Or to the trap in the cement?

Oh and about the new "T" what if this has an elbow to a mail sewer line? And where do I put the new cleanout if I'm cutting that out?

Just for refferance... I am under 2006 Michigan Plumbing Code (IPC 2006)

Thanks

One more thing? How do I know if my seweage is gravity fed and if I need a backflow valve?

1. Pipes are below the slab, in dirt, or bed of sand. Usually they will be about 12" deep and deeper. The deeper they are, the better for you..
2. Sewer pipes should be empty ( remember, they are sloped and all waste should travel through the pipes out, and away, from your house ).
3. Use PVC or ABS. It is very easy to work with and you can buy all fittings and pipe in Home Depot / Lowe's type stores
4. Nail piece of 2x4 x 24" long over the drywall, on the wall about 24" high from the floor, and behind the existing C.I. pipe. Make sure you drive at least couple of nails at each end of this 2x4 and into the wall framing member (stud). Than, take plumbers tape ( piece of flat metal strip with holes) , wrap it around the vertical C.I. pipe and tie it tight against this 2x4 using drywall screws. Double the support up for better grip
5. I don't think you need check valve. Your sewer is coming from above, changes flow from vertical (above ground) to horizontal (below grade) and uses slope to exit your property to towards City sewer. Therefore, you should have gravity type sewer system within your house...

Open up your floor and post a photo. We'll take it from there.

Ok so I talked to someone today that's does this regurly, they recommended, just build a base for the floor up since that will still leave about 7ft of ceeling height( from the drop ceeling), from there take the cap for the cleanout off atach a t and run my piping from there. Around under my new floor? What do you think is this a better faster cleaner aproach? They said 8" im wondering why i couldnt do 6"...
Is there a way I could thread in a iron "T"? Or use a pvc? Also would I need to build some kind of access to these pipes under the new floor?
Let me know what you think of this

Thanks again for everything... sorry for all the changes, just looking for all angels,

I suggested the same thing in post #2. Ok, nominal lumber you will use will be 2x8" which actually measures 1 1/2" x 7 1/2" inches + 5/8" plywood on top as floor.

You cannot use 2x6" lumber ( actually 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" joists) because you need space to clear 3" bends + bit of slope towards the stack. Also, you have to cut the stack vent to attach San T. That will use some of your valuable space as well. That's why 8" step.

Use PVC or ABS. Both are HomeOwner friendly. And cheaper too. No special tools needed.

OK sounds good, so I'm thinking if I cut two inches above the floor coupling will this allow for the insertion of a pvc san T


On the floor I was planning to lay tile... between the sheathing and backer board plus the tile... about what another 1.5" maybe more.... and my shower walls are 78" should I cut these down to fit the room because I will no longer have 78"... its going to be more like 73"

Why couldn't I just find a pvc iron threaded adaptor atach it to the san t and thread it into the clean out and then bring the clean out up to the new floor level.. . of course I would thread it first then bond it...


Also can I use a angle adaptor with a smaller atachment for the shower... and then a horizontal wye at the shower drain for the sink drian.. the bathroom layout is a sort of you shape so it would work out if I could do it like this...


Thanks

1. Sure, you can use Female Adapter and screw it into existing CI clean out
2. yes, you can use Y adapter and angle one outlet to sink, the other one towards shower

OK so I know this wouldn't pass any code ever... but will it work and not leak? What do you guys think of this??

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0827081449.jpg

It has a fernco doughnut between the iron and pvc

Can I connect a 90 "Ele" directly to a tiolet flange?

And are there any recommendations for not having enough height from underneath for piping... besides rasing a floor


Thanks

Yes you can. Pluming code only specifies how long your drop can be before having a vent. You can put a street 90 right into you closet flange. Let me know if this helps. If not I will go more indepth.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mygirlsdad77

yes you can. pluming code only specifies how long your drop can be before having a vent. You can put a street 90 right into you closet flange. let me know if this helps. If not i will go more indepth.

---

Thanks... helped... since I have you here..

Do you know anything about pressure testing?? Is it nessicary or could I just pour a lot of water down a few times?

Also I do have one other post on here if you get a chance,, the last post I made on the thread is what I'm looking for now also.

Thanks so much

Hi MK..

I didn't think the male adapter was going to thread into that cleanout... sometimes threads at cleanouts don't match any known threads of a fitting to adapt over to pvc because they don't want people threading fittings into them... ;)

What fitting is that.. Is that a male adapter or a reducing coupling in the fernco donut? Is it a street reducing coupling?

If one of the above, as good as it looks, this connection could very well leak later when placed under pressure (such as a full toilet flush). The fernco donuts are made to accept full size pipe not any of the other fittings I mentioned.

You could try installing full size pipe in the fernco donut and then take off with sanitary tee and cleanout from there... Or you could install a manhoff fitting (see picture) and PACK that in using a little oakum and some lead (melt this in ladle or similar tool). Here, you pack oakum around joint to within about 1-1.5" of top of cast hub and then melt/pour lead to rim of cast hub... let cool and then pack the lead tight with packing irons (last 2 pictures). Tools can usually be rented for this.

I hate to be a bummer on you... looks like you did some hard work there... but you asked if this looked like it would work and in my experience the fittings I mentioned first don't work with these donuts! I would hate for a sewer smell/leak to develop later down the road under that floor... so figure that we should take a little extra time here and discuss this so that we can be sure no issues later... hope you don't mind!

Let me know what you can... ok?

MARK

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Hi MK..

I didn't think the male adapter was going to thread into that cleanout...sometimes threads at cleanouts don't match any known threads of a fitting to adapt over to pvc because they don't want people threading fittings into them....;)

What fitting is that...? Is that a male adapter or a reducing coupling in the fernco donut?? Is it a street reducing coupling??

If one of the above, as good as it looks, this connection could very well leak later when placed under pressure (such as a full toilet flush). The fernco donuts are made to accept full size pipe not any of the other fittings I mentioned.

You could try installing full size pipe in the fernco donut and then take off with sanitary tee and cleanout from there...Or you could install a manhoff fitting (see picture) and PACK that in using a little oakum and some lead (melt this in ladle or similar tool). Here, you pack oakum around joint to within about 1-1.5" of top of cast hub and then melt/pour lead to rim of cast hub...let cool and then pack the lead tight with packing irons (last 2 pictures). Tools can usually be rented for this.

I hate to be a bummer on you...looks like you did some hard work there...but you asked if this looked like it would work and in my experience the fittings I mentioned first don't work with these donuts!! I would hate for a sewer smell/leak to develop later down the road under that floor....so figure that we should take a little extra time here and discuss this so that we can be sure no issues later...hope you don't mind!!

Let me know what you can...ok??

MARK

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Thank you massplumb...

OK, don't think I'm not taking your advice and not listinening to you... because I am,
But,, I was looking online for the adaptor that you were talking about, I found it to be called a soil adaptor, and I came across a an adaptor that's made for this and then it says to use plastic lead, they are both made by genova, I would send a link but the site froze up.

Let me know what you think

p.s. you are a good plumber, that was a male threaded adaptor. Later I did switch that with a portion of pipe, however I'm now thinking it would be better to ditch the rubber and go with a seal such as this one or the one you were talking about.

Thanks

Got the links,

http://doitbest.com/PVC+fittings-Gen...sku-442747.dib

http://doitbest.com/Water+pumps+and+...sku-419931.dib

Hi Mk...

As a pro... I wouldn't use it because I have all the leading tools and lead and oakum on the truck!

However, seems to me that this will be a very good choice for your circumstance! I especially like that the plastic lead expands as it dries!

I say you go for it and then let it dry exactly as recommended then hopefully you can get this project up and running.

I am planning on posting a basic idea of how to pipe this tonight sometime. I would love to know if wet venting is allowed in your area... any chance you could call a local inspector and ask him?

Let me know...

MARK

Mark,

Not sure about the wet venting but that main stack is a vent and the toilet is going to be about a little over a ft away, however the do it best store here didn't have those items instock so I went over to the local plumbing store,, again, and happened to find a 3" galvinised adaptor for the 3" pipe,, the pice ran me 33 bucks but I'm sick of waiting on this crap... been 3 days now doing the same stuff,

So now I'm using the galvnized adaptor threaded and I can thread my pvc male threads into this... and bam its solid, sealed,
.

If your drawing this up, note I have to use a ele right onto the toilet flange

Thanks so much for the help
I love this site

MK...

Call local plumbing inspector and ask him if wet venting is allowed?

Then tell me if anything connects into the vertical pipe from above... if it does then this is a waste stack at this point and toilet, sink and shower will need to be individually vented or may be possible to vent all from 1-2" wet vent... That is, wet venting will save significant time and money.

Let me know more here...

MARK

Well I called up an inspector, they are going to call me back when they are avaible,,

There is a toilet and a shower and sink that feeds into this stack, and also there is a stack from the addition upstairs on the 2nd floor that feeds into this stack, the stack is a vent after the first floor toilet.

Also the shower and sink are going to have to be on the sanishower system because I can't get enough height for the drains of those, I was planning to have that drain into a wye after the toilet in the piping...

I think that wet venting is allowed because the utility sink has a wet vent... I think at least... here is a picture of the utility sink
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0828081752.jpg

The pipe is going straight up to the roof, I know for sure it's a vent

Hi MK...

The picture posted actually shows that the utility sink has no vent at all. For a vent to be a sink vent it must come off ABOVE the ptrap of a the sink. Clearly there is no vent coming off the top of the trap so this is an unvented fixture and should be fixed now if you have the chance... (just so you know anyway). You could install an individual vent as required and connect to other vents or you could also install a provent (see picture #1) here if not going to be inspected, but at least the provent would allow air to mix as utility sink drains AND allow air to enter into the system when water flows through that pipe to the left instead of pulling it from the trap of the utility sink and siphoning the ptrap dry and allowing sewer gasses into your home when the fixture (kitchen sink perhaps??) above drains (a health hazard)... so if get chance, at a minimum consider the pro vent (see picture #2)... *whew*... ;)

OK...now what is this about using the sanishower system for the shower and the sink?? Great system...but why can't you get all this to gravity drain...?? Let me know more...ok??


Chat soon... MARK

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Hi MK...

The picture posted actually shows that the utility sink has no vent at all. For a vent to be a sink vent it must come off ABOVE the ptrap of a the sink. Clearly there is no vent coming off the top of the trap so this is an unvented fixture and should be fixed now if you have the chance....(just so you know anyway). You could install an individual vent as required and connect to other vents or you could also install a provent (see picture #1) here if not going to be inspected, but at least the provent would allow air to mix as utility sink drains AND allow air to enter into the system when water flows through that pipe to the left instead of pulling it from the trap of the utility sink and siphoning the ptrap dry and allowing sewer gasses into your home when the fixture (kitchen sink perhaps??) above drains (a health hazard)...so if get chance, at a minimum consider the pro vent (see picture #2)....*whew*...;)

OK...now what is this about using the sanishower system for the shower and the sink?? Great system...but why can't you get all this to gravity drain...?? Let me know more...ok??


Chat soon...MARK

---

So that's why the sucking sound always... however the traps remain wet, the sink was that way when we moved in and has always been that way I suppose...

But, the reason I can get this to all gravity drain is because the shower base is raised already about 8" which is the max because my shower doors are 72... the way I had to connect the san t to the existing clean out has caused me to have more height that expected... I'm already going to have to raise the floor an additional 3.5 to 4 inches because of this and the mimnium drop caused by the elbow to toilet flange, unless you know of something else

But as of now this is how I plan on connecting to the stack,

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0828082020.jpg


Its too high to allow me to run all of the shower piping and sink piping with a downslope of even a 1/8th inch. And I have this as tight as I can get it...

Unless I can put a 45 ele at the stack run a wye then a 45 from the toilet, other side of wye I could install a T with a clean out? And then connect piping from shower and sink??

Let me know what you think of this,

However no inspections so if wetventing isn't to code but will work fine lets do that... if this works what I just had... wow that was a revelation

OK... I've done it

Pictures are ready... atfirst I found this on the right and started freaking out, but soon took off the clean out cap and realized this wasn't the path I could see...

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...h/IMG_0752.jpg

Is that an old clay pipe?? Didn't think the house was that old and the basement seams to have a consistent cement... anyway

Here is a eye level of the pipes... if this continues on this path... it will intersect closly with the shower drain and sink.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...h/IMG_0751.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...h/IMG_0750.jpg


http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...h/IMG_0748.jpg


If you need to see more let me know

I want the toilet to be in this area... to the right of the overall view picture... but within the hole I opened up so far.

Hi Brian... excellent job! I see you don't mess around!

The clay pipe is an inside perimeter drain pipe so try not to disturb this too much.. ok (I would have you cover the clay pipe with some gravel and then a liner fabric before closing up the hole... can discuss later).

I'll draw up the best way to pipe this up a little later tonight. I am going to present the piping in the wet vent manner discussed earlier.

You really lucked out with the pipe headed as it is... and not too deep. Seems you have a little luck on your side.. ;)

See if you can locate some lennox diamond sawzall blades at your area home depot or similar. If they don't have diamond blades then the carbide blades do OK, too.

Ideally a local plumbing supply house will be open tomorrow morning and you can go purchase the correct fittings and clamps. If not, then we can come up with another solution... best overall will be to get a cast iron no-hub wye fitting and some no hub or mission style clamps. Check local supplier in the AM and I'll give you a list for them if they are open. If not, then I'll give you another list to go to home depot and get supplies there... I am thinking you can finish this up this weekend and get working above ground next week!

PS: That looks like it is 4" cast iron underground...a good thing!! Just so you know!

Talk soon...

MARK

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Hi Brian...excellent job!! I see you don't mess around!

The clay pipe is an inside perimeter drain pipe so try not to disturb this too much..ok (I would have you cover the clay pipe with a some gravel and then a liner fabric before closing up the hole...can discuss later).

I'll draw up the best way to pipe this up a little later tonight. I am going to present the piping in the wet vent manner discussed earlier.

You really lucked out with the pipe headed as it is....and not too deep. Seems you have a little luck on your side..;)

See if you can locate some lennox diamond sawzall blades at your area home depot or similar. If they don't have diamond blades then the carbide blades do ok, too.

Ideally a local plumbing supply house will be open tomorrow morning and you can go purchase the correct fittings and clamps. If not, then we can come up with another solution...best overall will be to get a cast iron no-hub wye fitting and some no hub or mission style clamps. Check local supplier in the AM and I'll give you a list for them if they are open. If not, then I'll give you another list to go to home depot and get supplies there...I am thinking you can finish this up this weekend and get working above ground next week!!

Talk soon...

MARK

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soundss great mark... I know that the one main plumbing supply in my area is closed sat and Monday because of labor day, but of course home depot is open, however there could be another local plumbing supply open, not sure though
there is a local hardware store it's a True Value, but this place is huge and has been here forever, they cary everything, alota people say if you can't find it anywhere check northside, and usulay they do have it. This place will be open,

haha, and no I never mess around, I'm the kind of guy that will work his off until its done then take a break and if I'm talking about it I will problay want to do within ten min, don't like to mess around,, as you can see,
sometimes this works sometimes it gets me into a mess, haha



question, since I see that your still here, if this runs in the directon of the shower drain should I just do two sepret cuts? Or should we stay with one?

oh and the perimnter drain... it had a small amount of gravel, but some dirt fell down in that crack? Is that OK? Should I be concerned?

this is the stack above my floor and underneath the first floor.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0829081902.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0829081903.jpg

the cast iron wye goes to second floor full bathroom, the galvanized steel pipe is from first floor shower/bath and then the pvc is from the first floor toilet

if possible could we use the open 2inch fitting for the venting? Only things above this is the firstfloor sinks, there are two small ones


thanks
-Brian

Hi Brian...

No issue with a little dirt getting into the clay pipe... happens at every joint between clay sections. Just be sure to cover with 3/4" to 1" gravel stone.

Sorry... that 2" tapping is a waste line tapping and will not be anything close to a vent for this bathroom. I bet if you chase out the other 2" tapping with galvanized piping that it picks up the lavatory or tub..? Let me know.

As presented... YOU WON'T LIKE THIS... but we will need to get a little creative with the venting to this bathroom, but we discussed fact that venting was going to be tough underground or above the floor so that really is not a change as much as a fact.

I mentioned connecting in at least 6 inches above the sink in the bathroom... either you need to connect into the stack a foot or so above the sink on 1st floor or you will need to run vent into the attic and connect vent from this bathroom up there (or could go with accessible PRO-VENT.. but since going this route I suggest you go full tilt and finish accorrding to code and tie 2" vent into vent system as described! ). We will discuss more.

Anyway.. I will draw up some basics... be right back... (refresh screen every 5 minutes until you see next post).

MARK

Haha, OK on standby refreshing every 5 min, don't rush though I'm in my own world... however, I did label all of those connections in my post. The galv pipe goes to the tub on first floor yes

For venting... kind of worried about this... don't have any access to the vent stack between here and the attic, even in the attic I was looking its really cramped not much space at all... what about, I've read about air valve... I forget what its called, the alztimers is kicking in again

Ahhh... air admittance valve

A start...

Refresh again in 5 minutes. Hoping I did not confuse files... BRB

Ahhh.. AAVs... yes.. may be option in this case... we'll see. First is to present best choice... work from there... ;)

Hi Brian... get that floor opened a bit more and dig down so the dirt is under pipe.

I will post all info needed from here by 8:00am eastern time... check back then.

I am having fun with this and think you are doing a great job. Talk in AM... my little guy wants to play!

MARK

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by massplumber2008

a start...

Refresh again in 5 minutes. Hoping I did not confuse files...BRB

Ahhh..AAVs...yes..may be option in this case...we'll see. First is to present best choice...work from there...;)

---

Haha OK, No Files are looking good, keep in mind... I'm no longer at the job, so I can not take any additional pictures tonight, I may have some saved in email I can look if you need others.

? Question? ->am I using iron for anthing other than the wye?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Hi Brian...get that floor opened a bit more and dig down so the dirt is under pipe.

I will post all info needed from here by 8:00am eastern time...check back then.

I am having fun with this and think you are doing a great job. Talk in AM...my little guy wants to play!!

MARK

---

OK good good,, go go

I have a little one also, a new one for me :) talk soon thanks, I'm hoping for a early start so as early as you can, but don't get up any eariler...


Thank you

No.. after wye I hoped to transition to pvc via an adapter or clamp.

And missed one question. You should take this off the one 4"x3"wye I drew earlier... not two fittings.. will explain in AM.

Good night...

MARK

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by massplumber2008

No..after wye I hoped to transition to pvc via an adapter or clamp.

And missed one question. You should take this off the one 4"x3"wye I drew earlier...not two fittings..will explain in AM.

Good night...

MARK

---

Goodnight

Thanks

OK.. here is some more info.:

see next post for more info.



.

OK...

You will need to purchase:

1-4"x3" no-hub cast iron wye fitting
2-4" 4-band clamps (best here..see 1st pic.) or can purchase shielded clamp (2nd pic.), but don't buy fernco rubber clamps (third pic.).

1-3" shielded clamp that transitions from cast iron to pvc plastic pipe (will say so on the clamp)

PVC cement
Pvc primer
2-3" 45 degree fitting
2-3" street 45 degree fitting
1-3" pvc 90 degree fitting
10 feet 3" pvc pipe
1-3"x2" pvc wye
1-2" pvc wye
2-2" pvc couplings
1-2" pvc ptrap without cleanout
3-2" pvc 45 degree fittings
3-2" pvc street 45
1-2" dandy cleanout (also called a test tee... see fitting picture)
2-2" pvc 22.5 degree fittings
2-2" pvc street 22.5 degree fittings
1-2"x1.5" sanitary tee fitting (will be installed above ground to pick up sink)
10 feet 1.5" pvc pipe
3-1.5" pvc couplings
1-1.5" pvc 90 degree elbow
2-2" rubber jim caps (see last pic... cap pipes after they come out of ground)
1 can rectorseal pipe dope (for lots of things as we go along).
1-3" jim cap (toilet)
20 feet 2" pvc pipe

That should get you started. If can't find the 4x3 no-hub cast iron wye then will need to purchase a 4"x3"PVC wye, a 10 foot piece of 4" pipe and 2-4" no-hub x 4"pvc adapters....ok?? You will still use the original clamps.

I have included a few extra fittings...JUST IN CASE! You may want to purchase other fittings as well... they can be returned.


Some basics here:

All pipes pitch at 1/4" pitch per foot.

Toilet pipe gets roughed in so it is 11.5" to 12" to center of pipe from rear finished wall.

Sink gets piped so it centered on sink. Sink pipe ends up at 18" to center off the finished floor... so if traveling 4 feet from the vertical 2" pipe you must start the 2" pipe you must start the 2" sanitary tee at 17" to center from finish floor so ends up at 18" off finish floor in the end.

Shower p-trap placement cannot be finalized until you have the shower base in home... so for now can stub to shower area and cap for now and then get the shower, determine correct rough in and then will place the shower p-trap.

We can discuss testing all this once you get all this piped and capped.

For now, stub the 2" sanitary tee at 17" and cap (after cementing over floor you will add the 2" dandy cleanout here and then the 2" pipe out of ground about 20" sanitary tee for the sink).

Obviously, after the wall is built by the sink you can drill through the studs and install the sink waste.

No regular 90s underground... only long sweep 90s... can make using 45 and street 45 fittings as I discussed with you earlier.

Let me know if you have questions. You know my number... ;)

MARK

Quote:

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

OK...

You will need to purchase:
Let me know if you have questions. You know my number...;)

MARK

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Hey mark...

Thanks for all this,

One question? When I attach the iron wye, do I make the part that comes off sloped a little bit?( if you were to put a level on the piece perpendicular it would not be level across it, so the part leading to the toilet is sloped into the drain pipe slightly?)

Hi..

Yes you want to install so has pitch up.

When get set to cut into the cast iron you would lay the fitting on top of the pipe and then cut the pipe so it is about 3/4" longer than the fitting....this is very important..ok?? This 3/4" excess will allow for the clamps inner rib.

You will install the clamps, slide clamps back, then bend the rubber parts back upon themselves, then install fitting, then flip rubbers back to grab the fitting.. then slide clamps in place and clamp this up to a proper torque.

Keep me posted

Ok got it,, thanks

Going shoping now and plan to be cutting by 11

Thanks so much Mark

Good luck!. don't forget to add sawzall blades to your list!!

You still here?

Can't find the CI WYE could you explain the route I have to take to install the 4" wye?

Oh and I do have the shower already :)