Hello, I gut main blue bathroom (35yrs old) want a different color bathroom but the existing cast iron tub is lightblue. I am hoping to get the best advice for this renovation. First option was possibly reglazing the blue cast iron(probably too costly and time comsuming) This tub is stardard dimesions size 14" D x 30" W x 60" L . Would it be best to just bust it out and replace it with a fiberglass hard acrylic finish tub or use those fiberglass inserts? I'm retiling the surround so I want to use a quality tub replacement that won't disappoint in the long. Can some one help me decide which designs are hihest rated or what is best for doing it right the first time? Do these new plastic/fiberglass acrylic tubs hold up well over the years? Thanks in advance!:)

Most professionals do not actually reglaze the tub, they use an expoxy paint and many people are not that happy with the result. It's a matter of looks and wear, you'd have to see one of their finished jobs to tell if you'd accept it. The new acrylic tubs hold up well but will show scratches if you aren't careful. Swanstone and Mustee and a few others sell a model that is soild color all the way through the material, much better than a gel coat and will last longer. You can not buy cheap on a tub and expect it to last. Swanstone Tub Walls

Ballengerb1, I first want to thank you for the helpful advice. Now I am in the second phase of my bathroom renovation. The bathroom is 62"x120" to studwalls.. My question is, will I be able install the new replcaement tub of the same dimension (30x60x14) tub space on widow wall, there is approximately an inch of clearance space at both ends to play in a new tub.. The old tub was easy to get out because I broke it up. Now I am wondering if I need to remove a wall to get the new tub in? Again, the tub space is about an inch clearance at both ends( 62" from wall stud to wall stud) The tub is 60" Thinking of going cast again too if I have to open a wall. But is it possible to get in a steel or quality glass unit without opening a wall? Thanks once again!

As a rule I have to take out the back drywall to drop a tub in, however, a lighter tub, such as fiberglass or plastic, can be slid in if you have the space to do it. Good luck, Tom

Tom, I think I will soon know when the plumber arrives on Monday. My dad says a wall has to come out if I am going to try getting a cast back in the tight space. With just an inch clearance at both ends, I am not sure if even a manageble lighter weight can be squeezed in without removing a few wall studs and the back wall! I can do whatever it takes, but should this be the case, I'm going cast iron.

Guys, as for sink and tub shower fixture faucets, is moen the way to go? I want quality but want to stay under 300.00 per set.. Those antique design brass models but want a head wand and wondering if they make the brass (dark brownish) for the diverter couplers or stem nipple from the shower.. also for the drain cover and trap for the tub? I have to research and shop online! Again thanks in advance

If you're going to go "top-O-da line" a cast iron tub is the way to go. And my compoany has always used Moen faucets in our new construction Good luck, Tom

JON... wait for me to repost.. I do cast iron tubs all the time. NO need to take out wall... check back in a few.

You said 62 inches space huh.. Then should have no problem at all. First, tub installation starts with a good solid ledger baord being screw/nailed into back wall. Then stand tub up and simply lower down so that the apron of the tub goes in between studs... takes two men to do this... but I am telling you with a little lift... a little shimmy it is easy to do (course me and my helper both weigh in over 250 :) )

How is this... :) I have never even had to smash a cast iron tub out.. in fact, I just disconnect drain and then pull tub forward so that apron is between studs and then just POP up and out. Then just wheel out on dolly (or carry out if feeling your oats! ).

That is the TRICK by the way... have to cut wall in front of tub apron to the next stud out... thats it, I swear!

Anyway, this is kind of my specialty... let me know if you have an issue... will try to talk you through... AND YES... MOEN is fantastic... when they say lifetime warranty they mean it!! Call 1800buymoen... and they ship part direct. Good luck and if my answer helped please RATE THIS ANSWER by clicking on button below. Thank you

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Originally Posted by jon123

Guys, as for sink and tub shower fixture faucets, is moen the way to go? I want quality but want to stay under 300.00 per set..Those antique design brass models but want a head wand and wondering if they make the brass (dark brownish) for the diverter couplers or stem nipple from the shower..also for the drain cover and trap for the tub? I have to research and shop online! Again thanks in advance

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I'd stay away from the polished brass, oiled bronze, pewter or copper finishes.

None of them hold up very well.

If you're looking for a finish that will hold up over time, then stick with the nickel or chrome finishes -- Nickel is used as a first generation plating material that is used to bond the finishes mentioned in the first sentence to the piece being plated.

As for the replacement tub; Have you looked into American Standards Americast line of bath tubs?

Tom and everyone else who are helping me ,I just want to say thank you all. I'm probably going to go with the cast iron American stardard tub.. I will most likely have to blow out a hole in the bedroom closet to get any tub in position.. will let you guys know how it all pans out after the plumber gets done. I like using the hardibacker board 3x5x1/2 for both the tile areas (shower walls and floor) Today, I repaired the 5/8 sub floor damage by the tub/bowl area 4x4x5/8.. Going to use the pl construction glue and preferred 1/14 cement screws after the plumber gives me the headsup. Once again I want to thank you all!

Mass plumber! I understand now what you mean! And I think it can be done exactly as you instruct knowing now what you explained. I can set the tub vertical on the faucet end ( rightside drain) and lower it towards left facing wall!. and shoud I even have to cut a stud or two from the work side of the wall, the bedroom side can be left alone! Cool! Lol excellent thank you so much buddy!

Growler the lady wants those Antique dark color faucets, but I believe you in every sense and especially knowing they don't make them to last these days.. will consider moen /america standard or any top rated brand. I want this qauality all the way. Thank you.

Glad you are happy JON.. but I am telling you... try it in place first... ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE GOING WITH THE AMERICAST... THE AMERICAST IS EVEN EASIER 'CAUSE LIGHTER IN WEIGHT.

I AM TELLING YOU THAT GiVEN 60.5 INCHES YOU CAN DROP THAT TUB.. NO STUD OR WALL CUTS... JUST PULL FORWARD OF STUDS (two guys... one on each end)... and you have 62?? DO NOT FORGET THE LEDGER STRIP!

By the way... you want to really step it up to a pros level... set that tub in a structolite mortar or a modified thinset mortar (modified is from Ballengerb1.. another knowledgeable guy! )... even the americast tends to creak a little when you step into it. The structolite or modified thinset will stop this noise/motion and tile job/grout will not tend to separate as quickly.. Contact me via private message or here if you want more details!

Let us know how it goes. Good kuck!

Jon, gone for a day and look at all the great advice you have received. I love Moen and always use Hardiebacker on my bath remodels, use their special 1 5/8" screws. !/2" Hardiebacker on walls and generallly only 1/4" on the floor unless you need a build up for floor leveling. You should have no trouble dropping a 60' tub into your space, not notching or stud removal needed. Cast is still pretty much the Cadellac of the tubs but you'll need to gather your friends for this project, could be almost a 1/4 ton.

Ballinger,mass,tom and all, I will certainly stay in touch to finish for this project. So far everything has been smooth and fun. ( need a 10-12 yarder for all the debri lol that mud wire is history! The rotted 5/8 sub cut away ( waiting for the plumber to do his thing) Today I putz around with the window extensions/insulation.. I will certainly use thinset motar and 1/4 notch for 5/8 subfloor for the 3x5 1/2 as the floor although solid is off a 1/4 dip in some areas. Structurely sound nonetheless.. the hardibacker site has a fun video installation and learned a lot today.. even YouTube has a lot of good educational videos. I am here in northern New Jersey. I will be using at least 1 5/8 screws recommended by hardibacker too knowing I am using 1/2. Thank you for the motar tub thinset tip too ( will probably go with a cast in anycase.. will listen what the plumber recommends and let you know before getting the tub.

Hey Jon, if your tub has a flange sticking up then the Hardiebacker goes over the flange so it overlaps. Sounds like you got that covered with your lattice strip. After setting the tub in structoliite or modified thinset you should fill the tub and let it stand for a week before using it. There will be no creaking sounds coming from that one. Butt your hardiebacker right up to the drywall and cover that transition with a 4" bullnose if you are doing ceramic. That same modofied acrylic thinset is what you use on your wall tiles. Be picky with the grout and go with something mold proof like a Stainmaster or 3 part epoxy.

Ballenger your are incredibly helpful, I understand what you mean and will follow your professional advice. When the pumber is finished, no matter which tub I'm using, I will lay it into the structolite/ modifiedmortar after the hardibacker. The shower tile10x13 does not have the bullnose and the Lowe's guy said to just cut the tile.. but I',m sure I can find a border bullnose match anyway.maybe something really6 expensive! Lol oh man! Good night and thanks again

"I will lay it into the structolite/ modifiedmortar after the hardibacker" Not after the backer, before the backer. This gives you an extra 1" plus allows for the overlap.

Oh okay ballenger, I understand what you are saying but even for castiron tub too? Had the plumber here today and he's going to do all the plumbing fittings HOPEFULLY SOON!. meantime, I'm going to tighten up the 5/8 subfloor with screws ,set some plywood mounts between studs for paper/towel racks and just continue looking around.. won't do anything until he's done. Still shopping for the electric fixtures/shower fixtures ,vanity ,sink ,bowl and tub. Thanks again have a great day

Not going to position the ledger until we decide on a 17 deep or what we had the 14 deep tub.. I think for resale the ladies prefer deep tubs.. we'll see,but iron cast we will go and I will use the structolite if you think it helps for even cast iron.

Filling a tub with water and setting in structolite is more important for acrylic and fiberglass tubs. It can't hurt with cast but they can weight 450 lbs empty so there isn't much movement.

Jon123 I don't use the mortar or structolite for a cast iron tub... just the ledger strip (I would screw this in at first... make sure positioned/leveled right.. then nail if want).

I do however use the modified thinset or structolite for an AMERICAST tub... americast is a great tub... but fact is that it is not a cast iron tub... (really just a really thick plastic tub... or similar)... so I put in structolite... no creaks... a good thing.

Good luck.

Hey Ballenger... I forgot to mention the weighting of the tub. Thanks for the back up and for not beating me over it!

Massplumber, I was down the street local plumber supply can get me a kohler cast iron for about 440 plus tax.. they weigh about 460lbs. Lowe's or home depot has the americast for 426.00 but it is much lighter... I know I can drop either tub in but which material would you go with the cast iron kohler or the americast which is basically a steel core with an acrylic composite type porcelain finish? I have no problem using the lighter tub with mortar to deaden the sound or to ease movement and do understand your method of installation. But again is wheeling in and dropping a 460lb cast all that much more difficult? I know to set the ledger to the backwall studs for the cast iron only and no bed of mortar is needed. I do have the man power.. thank you again for helping me , all of you good people!

Hey Jon... Well, first I wonder what kohler cast iron tub you are talking about... the villager Off PALLET only weighs about 330 lbs... and that is still heavy/awkward. So just wondering. AND another side note... im my area home depot sells the kohler villager cast iron tob for about $350ish... so check with them before purchasing from plumbing supply house.. a plumbing supply house is not giving you wholesale price... closer to retail... but look at home depot... even online.

Let me tell you though... a cast iron tub is a big deal compared to the americast... getting in place and then getting ledger strip in right place (tip tub forward here.. do not remove from space to get ledger strip in).. and hard to get upstairs... BUT I would always go with the cast iron... you asked.. ;) .

BUT again, if americast in structolite or similar... also nice tub. Back to you.

Mass, been browsing HD site and see it now.. I pretty much want to keep it the same.. the kohler villager model 716-0 is showing white/in stock for $340.76 the lady on the phone at local HD said it would be a special order /color almond for $442.99.. glad to learn it is a lot less than the kid at that mom and pop plumbing supply claimed! Anyway they still can't beat the Lowe's or HD prices. My plumber is going away for a week vaca so I have time to shop around prices.. also think I'm going to shoot for the Delta faucets if it is true they have 5 year warranty.. No doubt the warranty is first for the faucets! Thanks again!

Mass/anyone, I am using 1/2x3x5 hardibacker and was wondering which side is the surface or does it matter? This is not the EZ grid 3/8.. the 1/2 has somewhat a rougher side than the other with no grid. I will not apply any sheets in the three side alcove yet until we set the tub. Thanks ahead!

Hey Jon... the way I do it... usually hardibacker has its name on 1 side.. that is the side the tile sets on (with hardibacker, seems to be smooth side out for tiling). BUT HERE, check this site out, and please if you are putting on a floor... you MUST set the hardibacker in a thinset mortar and you must stagger the joints between boards... AND you must tape joints with alkaline resistant tape... and use their screws.. *WHEW*... anyway, read the PDF file.. that should answer all questions... Keep us posted JON!!

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...install-us.pdf

Yes mass, I had visited that site before and thoroughly reviewed all their audio clips, excellent site with the exception if I'm not mistaken, I don't believe I seen anywhere on the site mentioning which was tile side for ttheir 1/2.. however, I am in agreement with you in that the smoother side is likely best for the tile side. And knowing the hardibacker plastic product label with the bar code doesn't peel off easy and would be the unpractical side knowing each label would likely need to be peeled off 100% for preparation of wall tiling. I will certainly let all you know how it goes. Not this week but the following, end of feb.beginning march , I should have the tub for the plumber to help me with a brand new brass/bronze finish waistetrap kit for the kohler 716-0 bathtub and a kohler toilet to match in almond. The 5/8 subfloor is cut out but not screwed down yet.. waiting for the plumber. So can't do the thinset hardibacker on the floor and even the alcove because the tub ain't in and so I am done for now. I did add some support bridging , I jigsawed out a 4" coffee can hole in 3/4 ply and temp screwed to 1x2x12" screwed flush to the paraell floor joist so the toilet trap ring screws have it solid before tiling.. Same for the towel racks and tissue holders but with 2x4 between the studs. Also just needed 3 sheets 4x8 of that new GPmoisture resistant gypsum board (fiberglass yellow on the backside) finish side is white. I'm not tiling the lower portions of the towel wall and toilet vanity side as it was> instead will paint.. and down the road I can always tile or maybe even go with sheets of beadboad with a handrail trim.. but that's just possible variations in design of preference.. I know tile too is the best. Just don't want too much tile! One thing I thought for myself is I made sure I put a 2x4 flat positioned parallel to the floor joists. One 5ft 2x4 flat supported by 2x4 bridging. Will meet the floor tile positioned roughly 30" to34" away from the window wall.. this additional nailer will reenforce and give extra support where the screws will be used to tighen both the hardibacker and subfloor.. I hope this helps others with similar projects! Keep up the great work! God bless!

Actually I like the rougher side... LOL... but all installations I have seen other people do always have the name out on front. I think this is planned by hardibacker so all will see their name when walking past.. you know... so that is why I say they want smooth side out.

Also note that the ledger strip can not be as long as 5 feet... cut 4 inches off each end.. you will see why when tub arrives. Talk soon.

1 5/8 Coated Backerboard Screws!later!

THANK YOU ABOUT THE LEDGER BOARD MASS, ANOTHER THING I WAS WONDERING IS IF THE ALCOVE IS 60.25 .won't it be a tough squeeze positioning with only a 1/4 clearance? Have not found a step by step illustration online for dropping in a cast iron.. and also the ledger, how do you position the ledger before dropping or do you get the tub in first mark and rule tilt the tub and than install the ledger? I know the plumber probably knows, but just curious how it is done. Thanks again

Yup.. will be tight.. but not as bad as you might think... I love this question by the way.. 'cause I specialize in it!

I usually leave a 1/4" to 1/2" clearance... so tight, but can be done. Here, you must have two hefty guys.. and as I mentioned... pull tub forward of studs... Then from upright position drop that tub (without tub waste and overflow assembly attached if makes easier... as long as can access later)... point here is that for every 1/4" 1st guy does, second guy must match. Hopefully plumber helping here agrees.

The ledger strip... YUP! Dry fit first... (I have been waiting for THAT QUESTION... BY THE WAY!). Set tub level and mark so that mark MINUS tub thickness equals where to place ledger strip. Then you screw in ledger strip by measure.. so that equals measure plus LEVEL both front to back and left to right.

Then set tub to fit ledger strip... (tilt tub in/out to confirm).. Make adjustments.. then set ledger strip dead on.

Let me know if need more info. Like I said I do these at least once a week!

Mass, going to depot for the tub, it should easily slip in and out of my tundra.. I am thinking of using a handcart to jump the 3 stone steps through back door glider.. from there through the kitchen floor tile and down the hall to the bathroom. Do you leave it in the crate or is there a better method of getting the tub from the driveway to bathroom? Man power is not an issue, just wondering if carrying it ( 326lb.) up the steps or using a handcart or dolly it on the kitchen tile floor? Another question in mind is about the ledger, wouldn't it be easier to set it slightly higher on level and than shim the tub on level to ledger as needed? Thereby avoiding having to tilt the tub back out using the heavy tub as a template for measuring and positioning the ledger? B eback later got to go now ! Thanks ahead and very much appreciate this site and you guys!

Hey jon... I remove the tub from crate before bringing into home. And it is not hard to tilt tub in/out for ledger strip... but it is hard to place shims under those tiny little legs of tub (if you decide to place shims... make them metal shims (junction box cover plates do great! )... wood will compress over time.

Carrying it in is a little awkward, but it is only 160lbs each or so for each guy.. so just take your time (oh! And stand up when turning hall corners... twist tub.. then lift again and go through doors (if hall tight).

Good luck today!

Mass, you are too cool by the way! Got the tub , first time lifted an iron tub with another guy, no problem as you say.. not worried about getting it it now after feelinbg the weight from depot to home. Still need to tie in the plumbing traps.. ( have old lead trap elbow to cast main with the leadpacking.. I probably should wait for the plumber and watch him covert these tub/toilet traps instead of trying it first time myself? Plus he's going to connect the tub waiste line and toilet trap along with the vanity cut off valves not to mention the shower diverter valves /whatever.. this is my only holdup here.. will wait by the way Passaic New Jersey home depot 399.00 for almond kohler + 3.5% tax not bad when other counties are 7%sales tax.. lol anyway the funny but sad truth too was about 50 + illegal mexicans were in the depot lot there.. I felt sorry and actually tipped one nice guy a few bucks for just a couple seconds to help me with the tub into my pu bed. Soon after they all scattered in fear of the patrol car just seconds after. Boy what a world online ehh?

No doubt jon... no doubt.

Since plumber is involved, let him change that lead pipe over... but yeah.. watch what he does... may help in future projects. As always keep us posted.

Mass, just wondering when /if going with 3/16 spacers for the porcelian tiles in showertub alcove, should I use that sealer mixed in with the sand grout? Or should I just use the grout and later use some kind of sealant spray after grouting? I have to read up on this stuff.. guy at Lowe's sold me this "Aqua-Mix penetrating sealer and recommended I use it. Actually, there is a technical assistance number on this gallon of aqua mix sealer. Find outlet you know!

I am unfamiliar with that grout... I use a 2-part epoxy grout for most of my installations... never needs sealing... never changes color.. guaranteed!

I bet Ballengerb1 has used this product.. or another guy is GLAVINE... I know he is familiar with it as he instructed a poster recently on using it (I think). That poster added 2 parts of A.. no part B (sealer).. so grout never hardened... ouch!

Just go to the members list (at top of this page) button and Glavine is on page #3 (so am I... why I know that ;) )... click on his name and send him a private message... he can tell you more... for sure.

Wow, she said never mix any sealer with grout!. most grouts are specially fortified and do not need additives. A few days after tiling and grouting, I will brush the sealant and wipe dry.