I'm a lady who lives alone and knows nothing about plumbing but I've been getting estimates and it's so confusing. I will appreciate any help.

My house is 24 years old with galvanized pipes. It's 1300 sq ft. with 2 baths, 1 kitchen sink, washer, and dishwasher. I've had three pin hole leaks in the attic in 3 years and was told it will keep happening. I've been getting estimates for repiping or relining the pipes. Relining will cost me twice as much so will probably have the pipes replaced just in the attic.

Is CPVC OK to use? - can't afford copper. Is PEX much more expensive than CPVC? I think it's better but what is a fair price? I've gotten prices from $2,000 up to $4,800. What questions do I need to ask the plumber to make sure it's being done properly? I can't afford to pay and not have the work done correctly. Thanks for your help.

Hi.. just need to be clear on issues at hand... are we talking water pipes here.. Or, are we talking waste/vent pipes..

If we are talking waste/vent pipes I suggest using P.V.C. (polyvinylchloride) pipe OR A.B.S. (acetylbutylstyrene.. I think) pipe... depends on what is required by the plumbing inspector in your town ( I suggest calling him anyway just to bounce ideas of him and/or to help you find a reputable/fair plumber in your area).

If we are talking water pipes then I would recommend using either PEX or CPVC pipe... both are fine for water. Once again, call your local plumbing inspector. He should be able to refer you to a trustworthy plumber. Good luck!

If this answer was helpful please press and rate my answer... :)

How many quotes have you gotten, get at minimum of 3. Ask them to specify inwriting what materials they recommend or you could just tell them you want two estimates, one for CPVC and one for PEX. You can better compare apples to apples that way. Your old pipe really must go so the sooner the better with your decision. I think you'll find the PEX bid much higher than CPVC.

What area do you live in? In Florida about 7 years ago I estimated repipes at 100 dollars per drop. This price was for plumbing only, and in cpvc. One sink is 2 drops, one dishwasher is one drop, one icemaker is one drop, one lavatory is 2 drops, one tub is 2 drops, one toilet is one drop, one outside faucet is one drop, one washing machine is two drops, one water heater is 2 drops. Your situation as you described it is 16 drops. At 100 per drop that is 1600 dollars. That same job in atlanta is 150 per drop in cpvc and 250 per drop in copper. It is totally not a good idea to do a partial repipe. It will usually not satisfy the problem and have to pay more to get it done right. Cpvc is more popular than pex. Pex is faster but the material splits easier than cpvc. Also, rodents love to nibble on plastic piping.

[I] live in Houston, TX and these are water pipes in my attic. I wish I could afford to change out the pipes in the walls at the same time but not sure if I can swing it. Is the cost a lot more for those pipes? So far I've not had any leaks in the walls. Also there's the added expense of repairing the walls afterward. Do rodents nibble on CPVP also because that's probably what I'll have to go with.

Also what questions should I ask the plumber about the way he will install the new pipes? Securing them or insulating them or removing old pipes? Any ideas?

Thanks so much for your help, Florence

I am not familiar withHouston weather so tell us about your coldest days in the winter. Were the old pipes insulated, if not then it may not be needed in your area. One question for each plumber is are they licensed to work in Houston and use CPVC? Building codes vary from state to state regarding CPVC installation and priming. Some states allow purple primer while others do not.

In Houston we have a couple of freezes a year and they're usually light one. Temps rarely get below 30 and then only a few days a year. I probably don't need the insulation in the attic but wondered if I needed to ask how the installation was to be done. Thanks for your reply.

Ask your plumber if he has liability insurance and request a certificate of insurance. Note, you don't use primer on cpvc pipe or fittings.

OK, I feel more confident going into this now and I want to thank you guys for all your help. I'll take your advice and try to ask the right questions.

Different states have different codes. Purple primer is used for both PVC and CPVC in many states. OATEY 30780 Purple Primer/Cl. f/ PVC/CPVC Pipe & Fitt., 4oz Iamgrowler recently pointed out it is not allowed in his state of Washington. You can just imagine what California's code specify.

On the manufacturer instructions on installing cpvc it tells you to use no primer for glue joints

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by florencehere

[I] live in Houston, TX and these are water pipes in my attic. I wish I could afford to change out the pipes in the walls at the same time but not sure if I can swing it. Is the cost a lot more for those pipes? So far I've not had any leaks in the walls. Also there's the added expense of repairing the walls afterward. Do rodents nibble on CPVP also because that's probably what I'll have to go with.

Also what questions should I ask the plumber about the way he will install the new pipes? Securing them or insulating them or removing old pipes? Any ideas?

Thanks so much for your help, Florence

---

Doug is correct in pointing out that a total re-pipe with *CPVC is less expensive (material wise) than a re-pipe with PEX, but this is generally only true when the installer has full access to the wall cavities (chases) where the piping will be installed -- Which means walls will have to be opened up.

The beauty of PEX tubing is that it can be fished through stud and joist bays, much like electrical wires, with a minimal amount of damage to wall surfaces.

*Disclaimer: I dislike CPVC with a passion and my advice will often reflects that dislike.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by iamgrowler

Disclaimer: I dislike CPVC with a passion and my advice will often reflects that dislike.

---

Just curious: why? What do you have against CPVC?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PalmMP3

Just curious: why? What do you have against CPVC?

---

I've spent a great deal of time over the years correcting and/or ripping out and replacing faulty installations.

Catastrophic failure at plate penetrations is the usual suspect (It will basically shear off at the upper or lower plate if it's strapped too tightly), followed by inadequate or too stringent mid-point strapping and failure to install expansion loops to allow for expansion and/or contraction.

I'll use it for running condensate drains or T&P drains, but there is no way I would install it in a pressure application.

A big reason for CPVC failure is the reckless installation by less than qualified people when this stuff first hit the market. Pretty much any fool could install it but 20 years later their installs started coming apart. People strung this stuff like it was a electric extensuion cord using very little support or clamping, I have seen a great many held to a stud with a bent nail, they actually bent the nail over the cpvc by striking it with a hammer.

I have not had the experiences growler has had and have not seen the pipe fail in Florida or Georgia the way he has seen it in his area. I have seen the pex split because it got a nick in it as it was pulled through holes and over sharp places.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by doug238

on the manufacturer instructions on installing cpvc it tells you to use no primer for glue joints

---

That glue he was speaking of was exclusive to CPVC Flowguard Gold.
It looks like egg yolks before you would make scrambled eggs.
It is a combination of both cleaner and glue, the consistency is runny.
However, priming a solvent weld joint is crucial to prepare the two surfaces to be joined in order to allow glue to properly join the two plastics together.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by iamgrowler

I've spent a great deal of time over the years correcting and/or ripping out and replacing faulty installations.

Catastrophic failure at plate penetrations is the usual suspect (It will basically shear off at the upper or lower plate if it's strapped too tightly), followed by inadequate or too stringent mid-point strapping and failure to install expansion loops to allow for expansion and/or contraction.

I'll use it for running condensate drains or T&P drains, but there is no way I would install it in a pressure application.

---

Then your displeasure with CPVC isn't with the product itself but with faulty installations. Correct?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by speedball1

Then your displeasure with CPVC isn't with the product itself but with faulty installations. Correct?

---

No, it's with the product itself.

When installed correctly, following all of the manufacturers installation guidelines, the money you saved in material cost is often then spent on the increased labor/installation costs.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by iamgrowler

No, it's with the product itself.

When installed correctly, following all of the manufacturers installation guidelines, the money you saved in material cost is often then spent on the increased labor/installation costs.

---

Then you recommend copper over PVC or PVCV for water pipes? What about Pex?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by speedball1

Then you recommend copper over PVC or PVCV for water pipes? what about Pex?

---

Ordinarily I would recommend copper, but copper has become cost prohibitive, which means copper is out of the equation when the job is being done on a budget.

Dollar for dollar, CPVC and PEX are nearly interchangeable in material costs.

However, PEX has a considerably lower labor cost due to significantly less stringent installation requirements.

And when it comes to re-pipes where minimizing the amount of wall surfaces that need to be removed to create pipe chases or drops, fishing flexible PEX tubing through wall cavities wins, hands down.

Could someone please tell me which cpvc glue requires primer on the glue can label? Or which cpvc pipe manufacturer requires primer on their cpvc pipe?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by doug238

could someone please tell me which cpvc glue requires primer on the glue can label? or which cpvc pipe manufacturer requires primer on their cpvc pipe?

---

It is my understanding that the Oatey orange CPVC cement is listed as a two stage cement requiring primer.

As for the manufacturers, most that I am aware of stipulate a single stage yellow cement.

IAPMO - Plumbing Research Directory
Excerpts
CHARACTERISTICS: CPVC Solvent cements are intended for use with listed CPVC pipe and fittings, and the one step CPVC Solvent cements are intended for use with listed 1/2 inch through 2 inch listed CPVC pipe and fittings;

MODELS:
*Gold Label – Lo-VOC 1-Step Flowguard Gold® Gold Medium Body CPVC Cement
*Yellow Label – Lo-VOC 1-Step All Weather Flowguard Gold® Yellow Medium Body CPVC Cement
Gray Label Industrial Grade Lo-VOC Heavy Duty Gray CPVC Cement
Orange Label CPVC Medium Body Cement
Orange Label CPVC Heavy Duty Cement
Orange Label Lo-VOC Orange Medium CPVC Cement
Orange Label Oatey 914 Heavy Body Orange CPVC Cement
United Elchem
UNI-WELD 3200 (Orange Label) Orange CPVC Solvent Cement (Medium Body Medium Set)
PLASTIC-WELD 603 (Orange Label) Orange CPVC Solvent Cement (Medium Body)

*Where Local Codes Permit, 1-Step Products may be used without Primer.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by doug238

IAPMO - Plumbing Research Directory
exerpts
CHARACTERISTICS: CPVC Solvent cements are intended for use with listed CPVC pipe and fittings, and the one step CPVC Solvent cements are intended for use with listed 1/2 inch through 2 inch listed CPVC pipe and fittings;

MODELS:
*Gold Label – Lo-VOC 1-Step Flowguard Gold® Gold Medium Body CPVC Cement
*Yellow Label – Lo-VOC 1-Step All Weather Flowguard Gold® Yellow Medium Body CPVC Cement
Gray Label Industrial Grade Lo-VOC Heavy Duty Gray CPVC Cement
Orange Label CPVC Medium Body Cement
Orange Label CPVC Heavy Duty Cement
Orange Label Lo-VOC Orange Medium CPVC Cement
Orange Label Oatey 914 Heavy Body Orange CPVC Cement
United Elchem
UNI-WELD 3200 (Orange Label) Orange CPVC Solvent Cement (Medium Body Medium Set)
PLASTIC-WELD 603 (Orange Label) Orange CPVC Solvent Cement (Medium Body)

*Where Local Codes Permit, 1-Step Products may be used without Primer.

---

Right, but if you read the directions on a can of Oatey's orange cement (medium, heavy, low VOC etc) the assembly guidelines include applying primer.

Personally, the only times I have ever used Orange CPVC cement were the few times I used lab grade CPVC DWV pipe and fittings in commercial applications.

Well, I guess I learned something today.

I guess the best approach is to avoid using a glue that needs a primer for CPVC since building codes do not universally allow the purple stuff.

Hello Florencehere,
Did you finally get the repipe done? If so who was the contractor and how was the workmanship. I am looking for repipe in Houston. Appreciate your input.
Ven

QUOTE=doug238;8 note, you don't use primer on cpvc pipe or fittings[/QUOTE] I have to disagree, All plastic pipes and fittings NUST be primed to remove the glaze.

Should specific types of primers and solvent cements be used on a CPVC system? Are specific colors required?

CPVC solvent cement, should always be for CPVC piping and manufactured to meet the requirements of ATM F 493. Purple primer manufactured for PVC pipe is acceptable. Faster flashing CPVC primer is available(see image), and is recommended for cold weather installations. Orange CPVC solvent cement and purple primer are specifically required by certain code bodies to facilitate identification by plumbing inspectors. Unpigmented CPVC solvent cement and primers are available and are acceptable in various jurisdictions. Clear cement/primer provides neater finished appearance. One-step cements are now available and are fully satisfactory if the manufacturer's instructions are carefully followed. Your local plumbing inspector can provide a final answer to this question.
Always prime PVC, CPVC and ABS before gluing. Sorry Doug and growler, Tom