Hey Mark,

In case your wondering ;) this is where the room is at, I'm working on the venting today but won't have much time to do so...

All the electrical is done, walls are up, tiles down and drying, plumbing is all done now... except for the venting

I don't think a pro. could have done better.

Thanks for update... waiting on picture of it all finished now!

Thanks...

MARK

Hey mark,,

Wow thanks, that's good to hear, however I have run myself into a slight problem, on the vent pipe, I ran it up through the wall, and just left the pipe there at the top, well I didn't think about it at the time but I really have no room to fit on a fitting. This is because the way the wall was built is that its right under a joist, so actually its about 2 inches of free space and 1.5 is taken by the joist, its right on the edge,. so I had to notch this for the pipe to come up,

That might be confusing, haha I have a bad headace right now, but my question is this,
Can I use a fernco adaptor here to connect the street 45's or a 90? Or is it best to just try to get this fitting on properly?

Thanks so much

Hi Brian:

Best here will probably be to try to enlarge the hole that pipe is coming through now... then pull the pipe forward as much as you can so that you can attach fitting without doing too much more damage to the joist...

Here, should just need sawzall with long blades to notch around the pipe. Or, you could drill another hole in front of it and lean pipe over and into that hole..? If you can get to pipe from underneath may be good idea to cut pipe and then install later using coupling...

Otherwise I think you have pretty good handle on how to get this done!

Don't you forget to post the finished picture... ;)

MARK

new Plumbing Page Record** 100 Posts!

I know this is a plumbing question but could you check over my electrical :) just to be sure, I'm pretty sure I followed code, I can take pictures if you need them, here is a diagram though

Tom... if anyone was going to break the 100 post record.. you just knew I'd be involved somehow... huh? :)

I swear...

Brian... you didn't need to run #12 to everything, but since it's done you may as well run with it. I'll try to post a pic. Of how I would wire this later tonight!

Talk then... MARK

Bye the way Brain,
Let me give KUDOS to both you and Mark. You for the great plumbing joib that I see pictured and Mark for guiding you through the process. You two demonstrate, to the max, what this page is all about. Congratulations on a job well done! Tom

Thanks Tom, I love this site, I'm on it all the free time I have now. :)

I've been reading, maybe not all 100 posts, but reading most. Can't help any better than Mark. You are at the point that I might suggest an epoxy stain proof grout that is pre-mixed, use on the floor and the wall tiles. I would not have suggested greenboard for inside the shower stall. Hardibacker or Wonderboard are a much better choice. Use of greenboad inside wet area stopped a long time ago.

Hey Ballengerb,

The walls are actually going to be a GP Tile board, and the shower has its own polystyrene walls, I was just using that for the backer

OK, that will work, you won't even need as much stain proof grout.

Mark,

OK, I made a stupid mistake, I have a venting issue,

Orignaly I was going to run down the wall about 6ft then because of some duct working the ceeling was droped here, so I was going to do a turn down at a 45 degree angle and cut across the walkway to a closet where I cut cut it back up and then through a wall and up to the roof... I didn't think this would be a problem until DUHHH rain water and condesation will eventually build up here and stop my vent... so now I'm at a rut,, the only other way would be to do my orignal run of about 25 to 30 ft... BUT, I realized I could tie into a 3" CI existing vent... or i thought about this,,, i could but a reducing T and run a "drain" in the middle of that drop to the utility sink and this could double as a vent for that?? What do you think? Any ideas? I've been thinking about this all morning now.

Let me know what you think

Quote:

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I could tie into a 3" CI existing vent... or i thought about this,,, i could but a reducing T and run a "drain" in the middle of that drop to the utility sink and this could double as a vent for that?? What do you think?

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Brain,
If the cast iron vent is a dry vent you could cut in a inverted tee and vent your sink, however if somthing's draining into the vent from above you must revent back to 6" above that fixtures flood rim. Good luck and you've done a hellava job. Tom

Tom,

Well there is a sink but I would cut in 6" above that drain, that's the complicated way,, the other way I was thinking would be easiest,, well ither way its complicated I guess... lol its rough

When I cut into the iron Vent stack do I use shielded clamps again?

Hi Brian...

Yup... shielded clamps! Remember to support the stack above/below the cut.. just in case!

Your wiring looked fine. I didn't post a pic as I figured maybe three different ways I could do it which made me recognize that what mattered is that you GFCI protected the fan and the shower light!

Good job! Lot of junction boxes though... how come? And did you use any 12/3?

MARK

Lol I was wondering if you were still there,

Yea I used 12 3 for the two switches, and I used 12/3 for the jbox to the fan/light combo, haha I only used a box each time I switched the wiring.

How do I go about supporting this thing while its in a wall,? Did you happen to catch the post? What's your sujestion? Its post 113

Support piping from underneath if pipes are exposed beneath... or just use common sense... just be safe and don't let anything drop on top of you... ;)

Cut into drain line at 48" off finish floor...not 6" above drain, but 6" above the flood level rim of the sink (about 42-48") and connect into vent there... hopefully is 2". Or if necessary increase the vent size as we discussed awhile back and run that vent the 25 to 30 feet...