Hi Brian:

Good news on the joist!

To install the roof boot just need to cut an oblong hole so pipe will stand up straight through the roof. Then you will slide the roof boot under the first layer of shingle and trim the shingle so it matches the contour of the metal/rubber interface... Once trimmed, the roof boot will slide into place and pipe goes up through hole in roof boot.

Can add a little roof adhesive or even silicone under the roof boot if want... but not needed if sits down tight to roof and shingle matches contour of bulge in the roof boot!

Let me know if that makes sense?

MARK

Makes sense,, got it, its great,
And 17 pages later VENTING is done:) (correctly) :) haha

Awesome job! You could have given in so many times. Glad you stuck in there and did all of this the right way!

Talk later...

MARK

OK got the pictures


The last one goes out to the garage and up I think I used 6 couplings:):)

what I was saying about the joists is... the white box looking thing there is the iron beam... and at the end of the joists is a 3 wide 2x8 beam... so in between here there can't be much weight on these joists,, not only that, above this is a closed off area, under the stove and emptyness :) so I figured this would be better to drill than the other ones, as every one of the other ones carried the full weight of the room above because they spaned between the two basement walls... :)

Nice Job... no concerns here!

Mark small problem,, it's the atack of the vent, AGAIN! Haha

No but in the pictures you can see,, I can't get my connection to the vent lined up unless I move my san t down, but then I don't know if I can connect like what I'm thinking... I want to branch it out a little and then use a 90 and then use another 90 to the san t... but I'm not sure if I can do that,,

What the heck did they do to the atachments thing?

I'm not exactly sure Brian...

Site upgrade! I'm hoping they get the kinks worked out soon!

Mark can you check 166 right above, thanks

Brian...

In this case I would get an 1 1/4" extension tailpiece, which will lower the ptrap which will allow you to lower the sanitary tee fitting which should allow you to work the fittings a little better so you can attch up to the vent....

I can't post a picture because my browser won't allow me to yet....:(

The tailpiece should do the trick. Plan on getting the 6" long one or plan on cutting a 12" tailpiece to about 6"...

Can use the 2 90s if you need too...

Let me know if that made sense...

MARK

Makes perfect sense,, I forgot about the extension tubes...

Ok another question,, should I fastening the toilet flange to the concrete floor underneath via some concrete screws? Or is it OK because its on concrete and tile? Just cement it into place (pvc cement)??

Thanks, should be done with this bath today ;)

Cool that you will finish today!

I always screw my flanges to cement floor to reduce chances of toilet twisting and to reduce any chance of a call-back. I use the TAP-CON screws... just drill hole and screw right into the cement (just don't screw into pipe).

If you choose not to screw the flange in be sure to add a bead of caulk to the toilet base... about 3/4 of the way around to help keep toilet from twisting.

GOOD JOB DUDE!

Post final pics. If you can!

MARK

Ok here they are :) thank you so much everyone, still have a couple of things to do but mostly done :)

One thing do you recommend silicone or adhesive/culk for the shower walls, (I used silicone and it was leaking and pulled right off) but there was a small gap,

Thanks again
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0921082101.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0921082102.jpg

Good Job !

Only that exposed toilet supply pipe: was that necessary ?

Yep that's the basement concrete wall :) I know that kind of ruins the room, but its just how we decided to go. Is Copper paintable?

Sure, it can be painted...

I was watching your progress form distance. I think Mark did great job leading you though the project and various details - and you excelled in interpreting his instructions and making it happen.

Overall, you should be proud of your accomplishment ! Looks good ! You saved yourself a bundle ! Congrat's !

Wow thanks

Looks really good Brian...

I think this thread will serve to help others in the future... so check back once inawhile to see how many people have actually viewed this thread (already at like 1400ish)... ;)

I'm not clear on silicone issue... I use a mildew-resistant caulking for shower in this case... everything must be absolutely dry before applying.

Painting pipe: Sand the copper pipe down then apply a metal primer (rust-o-leum metal primer in can) and then paint using a rust-o-leum paint and should almost blend into wall... ;)

Like Milo said... we can advise you, but you took the directions and made it work!

GREAT JOB! And one last time I got to say it... NICE NOT TO STEP UP INTO THE BATHROOM... HUH? :p

Talk later Brian...

MARK

Haha its wonderful, I wouldn’t have done it with out your encouragement,

Thank you much for EVERYTHING!!
Can I get a round of applause for Mark, everybody.

As for helping people yes I think so, I ask so many questions haha, but maybe they could trim it up? There isn't much but I know they have modified it already.:p

Clap, clap, clap... from Los Angeles:D

Thanks Brian.

Really was a tag team effort though! Thanks Milo, Tom and Bob!!

By the way... my number was off earlier. This thread has been viewed over 1800 times... already! Wait'll 3-4 years from now... Brian will be famous!

Have good day all! :)

Wow how ironic, I live in Michigan, live in a 1970's ranch house connected to city sewer and am planning on putting a bathroom in my basement directly below an existing half bath ( in my case I plan on removing the above bath ) What a goldmine this thread is, I really enjoyed reading it. Now I just need to wait for next summer and build up the nerve to do it.

Glad you found it HG... :)

Pop back and let us know when you start!

MARK