Not a good idea if I have that drop, then a Tee in the middle of that going to the utility sink, doubling as a vent? Maybe as 1.5" piping
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Not a good idea if I have that drop, then a Tee in the middle of that going to the utility sink, doubling as a vent? Maybe as 1.5" piping
This is what I'm hoping for, just because the vent now comes out up above the joists, and once I cross that doorway they switch direction, so its going to be a huge pain to go that way, and I don't know how good cutting a 2.5" hole in these joists is going to affect them,
Ahhh I'm stuck with this venting
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0913081137.jpg
I figure if I run the line in the drop,, this will drain any build up and also act as a vent for the sink which needs to be vented anyway... But this might not be allowed
Hey... not that it's not creative... I'll give you that... but goes against every venting principle I can think of! :p
Why do you have to drop down.. The picture presents that you could just go across the drop ceiling and keep pipe pitched as needed... as in my version with green line?
Let me know.
Oh how I would love if it were that easy,, :(
Problems; (ive highlighted these)
The yellow is the joist directon. So if I were to do anything on this side I don't see how I would get a pice much biger than 13" up in each hole between, i thought i would have the same problem through the room but,,, if i cut the holes i coud take the one long pice and stick it up in my joists running in the first room pictured, and stick it through, all the way,
1. The Height of the drop ceeling is about 3/4" from joists to top of runners, so nothing is going to fit through here underneath the joists
2. There is a air return section(yellow box)
3.The lowest I can get my new vent is still 2.5" into the joists,
4. At that door opening,,, There is;
i) A iron Beam (light blue) but about an 8" opening from the floor upstairs to the top of this
ii) 3 2x8 Joists together (about 4.5") so this is weight bearing (orange)
iii) A joist direction change (same as orange and blue)
i guess since ive figured out i could stick one long pice through my holes, is it ok to drill a 2.5" hole through these joists? And run as the second picture :)
I hope I'm not being a pain in the a#@ for you
sorry
If I'm being a pain just tell me to figure it out lol
We've gotten this far together... so no woriies there.. ok?
I'm off to a parade with my kid, but will pop back later and give some thoughts on this...
I got to ask... is there any room at all between bottom of joists and the drop ceiling?
Talk later..
Beginning of post 124 has it all
Have fun
Let me know
:) Thanks
Brian... all vents must pitch from the roof to the fixture being served. There can not be any trapping of pipes/vent in any way.
Your last pic looked OK, but seems to me that you would still need to drop down from the joist bay and into the boxout with beam anyway and then run back up so don't think this will work.
You could drill the joists at center if joists over say 8.5 inches tall..?
Otherwise... you sure you can't just run a pipe up inside a closet somewhere..? Check all again... let me know.
MARK
Hey mark,
Well even if I do go to a closet,, I still have the issue of opsit direction joists, and that return air ducting for the furnace
How do I get a section of pipe longer than 12" going opsit to the joists in there too?? You see my dielma
The closeist closet will require a 15 ft run still :-/
All I can tell you here Brian is that as a plumber, if I was having this inspected I would find a way to get that pipe up and into the attic and out the roof OR I would find a way to get it to the 1st floor bathroom and I would cut into a 2" vent up there (at 42-48" off finish floor)...
You'll find a way! Didn't I tell you I chased your telephone number down and determined your address and the plumbing police are on the way right now to inspect this... :) So best do good job... :p :p
Keep me posted... Don't hesitate to discuss this with us though... we never mind helping!
To go to the closet, I would have to go the opsit direction about 8 ft possibly more, and then make a left turn for another 5ft, there is 2 ducting pipes and 1 return ducting which is 2 joists wide
Didn't think it was going to be easy! Or you wouldn't be asking this question!
Haha nice, well I have been staring at this celing for a weak now :( grr maybe I'll just cut a hole through the kitchen floor and make it to the attic then :) haha, but I'll look at all of my options, its going to be difficult no matter what so il will try to get this a good way
Good attitude!
I can't tell you how many times I wanted to cry trying to get a vent to the attic... especially in cases like yours. BUT I always found a way and in the end always was easier than I thoughT!
Let us know how it goes!
When is the first shower planned?
So,, for some guidelines,,
Vent has to pitch up from drain use long 90's or 45's
Lol anything else?
Haha it was planned for last Sunday :-/
YUP... vents pitch, too! For vents you can use regular 90s and 45s.
Have you installed the shower doors?
No I haven't installed them yet, I'm waiting to do the walls and doors and stuff justincase I need to pull the one wall off to get to the venting pipe
FYI... can also run this vent outside of house to above roof line if absolutely necessary... with conditions! Let me know...
Well I realized I can cut into the kitchen sink vent, I just have to cut a hole in the living room wall, but its gota be done so,, only thing imworried about is support, this is a galvnized steel pipe 2"
Oh, when you say 6" above flood line, do you mean 6" above the top of the last drain point in a sink?
When I say 6" above flood line I mean 6" above the rim that the water would overflow if drain was plugged ansd water was running full stream...
The kitchen counter, for example, for a kitchen sink. In the case of the sink you will tie in about 42" to 48" off floor (counter is 34" plus 6" equals 40" but most of us go 42/48 so inspectors can see that we get the idea)..all vents from fixtures on this floor must connect in at this height...
The bathroom from the basement must connect at least 6 inches higher than the highest fixture on the first floor....again the kitchen sink or the lavatory sink...so plan on connecting vent in at 42 to 48" off the 1st floor.
If can see galvi. Pipe from below just support with 2x4s... otherwise, open wall so can get a riser clamp or a split ring around the pipe for support while cutting, etc...
Yea this is galvi from the basment floor and the kitchen sink is tied into it with galvi, so I'm asuming that its galvi up to the roof, sink is only thing on this stack
That is how it usually works! Sink almost always on its own vent.
Good solution here... I knew you'd figure it out and the right way, too!
Now to be a bummer... wanna bet that vent turns out to only be 1.5"?? :eek:
Haha... let me go up into the attic right now and check,, it better not be, although the piping from the sink is 1.5"
GRRR...
I am not known for bringing joy to others... :rolleyes:
I can't tell,, all I can see is a hub, and then it goes to 3" CI but underneath this hub its solid something all around it...
would they go 2" to 1.5" then 3"??
No.. most likely not.
You will know 100% when you open the wall!
Sounds like you got a winner here to me, Brian...
So is that solid pice under the hub strong enough to hold the weight of the pipe? Its not more than 8 ft of pipe above my cut
You should be OK cutting into the galvanized pipe... plan on the sawzall binding as you cut into the pipe... then, I would make the other cut...
Here's how I do it...
I pre make a 2" TY onto 6 inch pieces of pipe, then prime/cement 2" no-hubx2" pvc adapters ontp pipe ends...then I measure overall length and I cut this length plus 1/2" to allow for rubber sleeves. Then I make the cut and I try to remove the piece I cut.. if removes pretty easy I will just slide the new pipe in place, orient it correctly and clamp all up. If any resistance to removing the pipe then you will need to get a 2" riser clamp and install that above the cuts , place small 2x4s under wings, etc...
I know the pipe goes straight into ground downstairs, otherwise I would discuss other things here as well...
So for me to buy,, I need a 2" Tee and some spigot adaptors?
If its raining should I wait to cut this?
Yes to buying 2" sanitary tee and spigot adapters... Tee goes in upside down.
Yes.. no cutting in the rain!
Sounds like you almost got this licked!
.
Darn,, supposed to rain until Monday,, guess I'll do all the prep work and get it up to the right point of cutting
A vent fitting connects into the stack by being turned upside down. This allows water to flow from the vent at roof to the drain in basement without obstruction or interruption of flow... play with the fitting you will see what I mean.
Lol Yea I deleated that post, I thought it was a regular T didn't notice san T
Hey Mark,
Ok so I did it, I ened up just cutting through the joists in the first room, I will post pictures, but I decided to do this because I figured it would be better as the joists I cut through really don't have any weight on them.
Also I ended up getting just a regular flashing, the kozy kolar was 65$ compared to 3$ for a regular one, besides going on the roof isn't an issue for me.
I'll be finishing up this venting today :),
Is there any kind of testing I should do?
Not sure about cutting the joists..? Hope you know what you're doing with that!
I would run a hose down the vent a bit, turn on water and let it run for awhile. Be sure to check all exposed piping and check in basement frequently as you do this just in case there is an unknown blockage... ok?
That should be all you need to do at this point!
Talk later.. off to work again!
MARK
No I just used a 2.5" hole saw,, but I'll show you what I mean by where I did it in the picture later
Ok souds good talk later :)
Any tips for installing the flashing?
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