In order to get that electrolysis action, you need to complete the circuit.

Ground to Galvanized - ga;vanized to brass - brass to pex and you need an electrolyte between the brass and the galvanized. Water is kind of a poor conductor unless it is moist on the outside of the fitting.

So, if thereis water on the outside of the fitting, then a dialectric needs to be used.

If it's on a totally dry locaion, then doesn't likely matter.


The dialectric union is necessary, but further investigation, I believe is warranted in this case.

You need two disimilar metals, an electrolyte and a "circuit".

You have A. You may have B and you have a lousy C. Furthermore, the brass mipple will be insulated somewhat with the teflon tape.

For something that is going to be replaced, the extra expense might be avoided.

Thanks to you both. Perhaps it is overkill, but really, there are only two connections that will be affected. I think I'd rather be safe than sorry. And yes, I intend to replace it, but it is hard for me to predict when and I'd rather not have any added pressure.

So, Mark, a couple more questions...

1) So, the 90 degree bend support would be used for example when PEX goes from a horizontal floor run up into a wall, right?

2) With the dielectric fittings, can you explain what you mean by an alternate fitting if the pipes are not exposed?

Thanks!

All circuits have a path. Usually it's metal electrolyte and metal. If metal and matal don't ough, yiu can't have elecrolesysy.\\\\\\\









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Metal to meal + some electrolyte has has a botential of creatting a battery. C circuit numbt be created fir this tio occur. Water is the circuit meduim.

Just like a battery:

Has(+) ANode - electrolyte- Cathode, (-) a battery is formed. Once you draw poper, you utilized the battery and corrosion takes places. No water, no junk Iions) no battery.

You vcan have two s=dissimilar metals connevted to gether and put I in a desivator and noyhing will happen,



Have it leak, etc, get dirty and you'll have a have a v=battery,

Pire water is a poor conductor of electricity on the inside/ On the outside, it's not true any more.

Hi all...

Cold water pipes condensate under certain conditions... I say stick with the dielectric fittings. In terms of "alternative fittings" I meant that you could also use dielectric nipples... use a galvanized coupling on galvi. Pipe, install dielectric nipple with teflon tape and then install PEX adapter using teflon tape... just another alternative (and don't need access panel).

The 90 degree hanger is used anywhere you need it, but is most often used when people stub out of the wall for PEX shutoffs and such... ;) Since you are going with copper stub outs... you won't need any there, but you will need from horixontal to vertical for sure.

MARK

Excellent. I understand now. If I use a union, it must be accessible, if I use a nipple, not necessary.

Great!

Yup!

Got you!

See picture...

You would install 1/2" PEX x 1/2" female drop ear elbows to a stud in between joists and then install 1/2" brass nipples and couplings to about 1/4" above the floor. After the floor is installed you can grab the coupling, install 1/2" I.P.S. (iron pipe size) threaded chrome nipples into them and then slide a 1/2" I.P.S. chrome flange down and over the exposed part of the brass coupling to finish.

I think I mentioned 1/2" above floor last time...but go 1/4" as you can use a standard flange to cover the exposed part of the brass coupling.

You want to rough these adapters in so that they are spread apart in relation to the faucet you will be using so choose your faucet BEFORE you rough these in.

Thanks! This is amazing!

Any thoughts on the prices from that website?

Prices are right about what I pay wholesale... so prices are fine there.

Excellent.

Is this to good to be true? NEW Pex Pipe Crimp Pinch Clamp Crimper Tool 3/8" to 1" - eBay (item 260386109257 end time Apr-09-09 19:08:58 PDT)

That would work for PEX pipe with crimping rings.

If using viegapex... it won't work. You MUST have their crimping tool.

OK, I get it. Does the tool need to be made by Viega? For example, can this work?

PEX Crimp Tool Kit for sizes 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" &1" - eBay (item 270325067600 end time May-02-09 08:26:10 PDT)

Nope... that tool is specific to crimp rings like the last one (not crimp sleeves... viega uses sleeves).. ;)

You are looking for something like this:VIEGA PEX PRESS TOOL 1/2" + FOSTAPEX PREP TOOL + CUTTER - eBay (item 270369896097 end time Apr-12-09 15:38:01 PDT)

However, don't pay the price mentioned at that eBay site... HUGE RIPOFF! You can purchase the entire kit (does 1/2" and 3/4" and includes all the gadgets) for about $200.00 either from viega or from a local viega distributor. On occasion viega has a 50% off promotion on the tools... if I see it again soon I'll let you know. Lastly, some local plumbing supply companies rent these to customers as long as they purchase materials through them. It can't hurt to call and talk to the counter guys and see if they are willing to help here..?

Otherwise, I'm sure the crimping ring method of PEX works great, too....maybe best to go with what is available locally. Hmmmmm..?

I see, I think I understand now. I think I'll head over to the local plumbing supply house this weekend and see what's up.

Also, I measured the incoming water main and it has an outer circumference of 3", and a diameter, I believe of 1". So, I should run 1" from the main to the manifold, right?


Mark-

Thanks for everything. Couple of remaining questions...

The incoming water line. It's copper and comes up vertically out of the ground in the basement. I measured the outer circumference and it is just a bit more than 3", which seems to be about 1" in diameter. How can I be sure? I want to make sure I purchase the right tubing, etc. Any suggestions? Also, I can run 1" from the main to the manifold, right?

Also, I have a concern about mounting the toilet. A while back you mentioned how it is important to take the toilet into consideration when framing the floor. So I was thinking it through a bit more and am concerned. The toilet should be set 12" from the framed wall, right? In this case, it will be set 12" from an exterior 2x6 wall. My math has the toilet drain falling dead center on the floor joist. Am I wrong? Any thoughts, suggestions?

Hi again... sorry for the delay. Been super busy and having a run of bad luck with the appliances and the computer at my house this week.

Anyway, let me know if you are using a pre-built manifold or if you are making one yourself..

I will answer the rest tomorrow night... PROMISE! I got to run now.. the verizon guy (cable/phone/computer) just told me my $600.00 TV that worked great until 1/2 hour ago is broken! I swear... just my luck lately!

Let me know...

Uggg. So sorry to hear things aren't going well... getting any better?

I will be buying a manabloc manifold, unless you suggest otherwise.

Thanks!

Hi Stubits...

3/4" copper tubing has a circumference of about 2.75" and 1"tubing has a circumference of about 3.5"... so appears that you do have 1" there.

The manibloc has 1" ports so you could connect both hot and cold in 1" tubing...IF your hot water heater is piped in 1".. Which I doubt... ;)

For a bathroom and a 1/2 I'm confident that you will be OK with 3/4" for both hot and cold water inlets to the manifold... especially since your water heater only has 3/4" inlet/outlet... right?

In terms of the toilet... I see that alot... ;) You may need to rough this in at 10" off the finish wall and purchase a 10" rough in toilet (more money), or finally, you could head off the joist and box out for the 12" toilet rough.

Keep 'em comin'

I will check the water heater tonight and see, but keep in mind the manabloc will be feeding 3.5 baths, 2 laundry rooms, kitchen sink and a bar sink.

I need to see what toilet my wife wants, if we can get a 10", I will likely go that way, if not, I can head off the joist no problem.

Thanks!

I had no idea you were picking up the whole house...

In that case... 1" is best for volume availability.

Eventually the manifold will run the whole house. I probably won't repipe the whole thing quite yet.

In that case, what do I need to do with regards to the hot water heater? Can I repipe it to be 1"?