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  • Sep 3, 2008, 10:35 AM
    mechanickid
    Hey mark,

    I will get that pilot bit... :)

    With the shower, how do I know once I assemble it and morter in in that I'm getting a water tight seal? Is there any way to really test it?

    I'm thinking pour some water in the pan, but then when I take it apart and look, if there is any water on the inside of the drain it will drip down... or no?
  • Sep 3, 2008, 12:45 PM
    massplumber2008
    Hey hey..

    You will dry fit the base first and cut pipe down so it is about 2 inches higher than needed.

    Play with it and examine how much tilt will be needed to achieve a plumb base from side to side and from front to back. How much do you have to raise each side to achieve perfect plumb? Make note of it on left and then on right sides of wall. Then you want to take a pencil and trace the level base where it is perfect.

    Now is a good time to dry fit the donut at the drain and mark the pipe for cutting. If super confident in all this then you can cut the pipe to the right height, but be sure to study the drain with piece of pipe in it first by playing with drain and pipe and the brass ring to tighten it (remember to tie a string onto the flat wrench).

    Now, examine the base and with information gained from above determine how much mortar you will need to set the base. You want base plus lift needed to level base plus an inch or so extra to squeeze out to edges. Then install mortar so that it is about 4 to 6 inches away from the center of the base (so won't squeeze up through drain hole) and set the base to match the pencil line on the wall.

    Double check with the level and then screw the base to the studs. Don't be afraid to set temporary shims from front to help support the front of the base while base mortar dries (front has a tendency to drop overnight so shim this). Then, before mortar sets, install the drain as required... install pre-soaped rubber donut, then install ring, then tighten appropriately. Then pour 1/2 gallon of water into drain (not in pan... just into pipe to reduce sewer gasses from coming up). Then snap cover over drain. Do all this without moving/falling into base... ;)

    Let base dry overnight and then set walls according to instructions. If mortar happens to squeeze into drain area just take a pencil and thin rag and remove propmtly.. then proceed.

    You should not really need to test the drain at this stage if you do all this correctly... study the drain with piece of pipe in drain and be sure to get good understanding of a tight seal.. then go for it. You can test the whole job next day or two but I have never seen one of these no-calk drains fail if person understands how they work! I think you'll see what I mean.

    On the walls... if just 1/8" panels that get adhered to wall then one trick is to install as usual but then after setting panel in place you want to pull it off the wall, let air dry for 3-4 minutes and then readhere the panel. This will help keep panels in place better than if you don't do this.. ;) Don't forget to fill the space we discussed earlier.

    Let me know what's next??

    MARK
  • Sep 3, 2008, 12:59 PM
    mechanickid
    Sounds good... what about the dirt down in the hole? Should I throw a small amount of morter down there?
  • Sep 3, 2008, 01:04 PM
    massplumber2008
    Not necessary as excess mortar will fall in if you space mortar only 4-6 inches away from drain and then set the base (better it fall in and fill this void then to squeeze up through hole).
  • Sep 4, 2008, 09:37 PM
    mechanickid
    Hey mark,

    So I am still here,, still working,, haha

    Couple of things... I think I might have messed up, I thought I had enough morter down but after a day, I came back and put some weight on the shower,, and I kind of got a squishy sound and herd some air squeeze out,, :-/

    Also I'm worried about the drain,, it seams as though I can't tighten it all the way, it will get so tight then slip out of the threads... and be uneven... maybe I'm just tighting it too much,,
  • Sep 5, 2008, 04:34 AM
    massplumber2008
    Hi Brian... see if possible to unscrew the pan and see if can pull it up. If not... fine, but if can would be best too and start over.

    The slipping of the threads is most likely due to the rubber not being pushed down deep enough into the drain assebly. Take a 1/4" nut driver or similar blunt tool and tap on this with a hammer to see if can set the donut deeper... let me know... ok?
  • Sep 5, 2008, 04:42 AM
    speedball1
    82 answers on this thread! Got to be a new record for a single thread!
  • Sep 5, 2008, 04:49 AM
    massplumber2008
    Funny stuff huh, Tom. This guy is actually working closely with me and together we're going to finish it!

    I'd hire this guy in a heartbeat!

    MARK
  • Sep 5, 2008, 06:12 AM
    mechanickid
    I will see if I can't get it up... actually I stuck my hand down there last night through the open wall side,, and it was still mostly wet... so hopefully I can,, one thing, you said thin set morter was OK right? I thought I remembered you saying it was...
    Could I just put some more down over the stuff now? Or should I try to get most of what's there up?

    Haha Tom we were going for a record,,

    Funny Mark,, I was thinking I should go into plumbing ;)

    I always had respect, but this is definetely a new found greatness for Plumbers

    Thank you thank you thank you

    Have a great day
  • Sep 5, 2008, 07:51 AM
    massplumber2008
    Brian... try to get it up and clean all... then post back... thinking maybe structolite may be best here (sold at home depot in my area).

    Let me know...
  • Sep 5, 2008, 09:32 AM
    mechanickid
    Got it up easy... wasnt even sticky... wasn't even dry, I don't know if it's the stuff I got or what... its premixed thinset from home depot, it says for tile, will it be OK for the tile??

    Anyway I don't think I'll have a problem getting it up, definitely going to go get some structolite... :)

    I forgot to say about the seal... I think I am getting it down all the way it looks kind of slanted in the drain also... did I mess it up? Or is it problay just stuck will try again when I reset the shower base.

    Talk soon

    Thanks mark
  • Sep 5, 2008, 10:20 AM
    massplumber2008
    1 Attachment(s)
    Stick with the structolite... stuff dries overnight... see picture below. This is all I use... squeezes out nicely too.

    If donut looks crooked then it must not have been set deep enough? Double check the fit again when base is up and then try again.

    Let me know...
  • Sep 5, 2008, 02:18 PM
    mechanickid
    Hey mark,,

    Just finished with the structo,, I have to say, that plus the brass drain unit, I feel 100 times better.

    :) thanks
  • Sep 5, 2008, 02:52 PM
    massplumber2008
    That structo-lite is great stuff to work with huh.. Wait'll the morning then let me know what you think...
  • Sep 5, 2008, 08:14 PM
    mechanickid
    Lol yea it wasn't too bad, I opted for the manual hand mixing... wasn't bad at all, and that brass drain made all the difference, it's a lot better.

    So is there a maximum horizontal run for my vent pipe? Because I have a way but it would require an L shape would be 22ft in one direction then a right turn and about another ten ft, then straight up to the roof... is this allowed? Otherwise the other way is a little more complicated.

    Let me know
  • Sep 6, 2008, 09:29 AM
    massplumber2008
    Brian...

    You want to take shortest route possible...

    As Iamgrowler (on-site plumber) so perfectly posted to me back at an older post... "Most codes allow only 1/3 of a vents overall developed length to be run horizontal. On a vent with a developed length of 60 feet, only 20 feet of that run would be allowed to be horizontal -- If the horizontal run exceeds 1/3 of the developed length, then you must increase the pipe size of the entire vent by one pipe size."

    That means that if you go the route you presented that you would need to increase your vent to 2.5" minimum... not readily available either...

    OR... find a shorter horizontal route... ;)

    Let me know
  • Sep 6, 2008, 10:57 AM
    mechanickid
    I can do a shorter horizontal route :) I could cut it down to something like 20 ft , then straight up

    P.S. That shower base is awesome, its solid :D
  • Sep 6, 2008, 12:01 PM
    massplumber2008
    :D Back at you!

    Keep 'em comin'...
  • Sep 6, 2008, 12:50 PM
    mechanickid
    So if I were to have a horizontal L at 20ft total that would be OK?
  • Sep 6, 2008, 01:15 PM
    massplumber2008
    Borderline, but I think this will work just fine for you! Go for it!
  • Sep 9, 2008, 11:30 AM
    mechanickid
    1 Attachment(s)
    Hey Mark,

    In case your wondering ;) this is where the room is at, I'm working on the venting today but won't have much time to do so...

    All the electrical is done, walls are up, tiles down and drying, plumbing is all done now... except for the venting
  • Sep 9, 2008, 01:02 PM
    massplumber2008
    I don't think a pro. could have done better.

    Thanks for update... waiting on picture of it all finished now!

    Thanks...

    MARK
  • Sep 9, 2008, 07:20 PM
    mechanickid
    Hey mark,,

    Wow thanks, that's good to hear, however I have run myself into a slight problem, on the vent pipe, I ran it up through the wall, and just left the pipe there at the top, well I didn't think about it at the time but I really have no room to fit on a fitting. This is because the way the wall was built is that its right under a joist, so actually its about 2 inches of free space and 1.5 is taken by the joist, its right on the edge,. so I had to notch this for the pipe to come up,

    That might be confusing, haha I have a bad headace right now, but my question is this,
    Can I use a fernco adaptor here to connect the street 45's or a 90? Or is it best to just try to get this fitting on properly?

    Thanks so much
  • Sep 10, 2008, 03:38 AM
    massplumber2008
    Hi Brian:

    Best here will probably be to try to enlarge the hole that pipe is coming through now... then pull the pipe forward as much as you can so that you can attach fitting without doing too much more damage to the joist...

    Here, should just need sawzall with long blades to notch around the pipe. Or, you could drill another hole in front of it and lean pipe over and into that hole..? If you can get to pipe from underneath may be good idea to cut pipe and then install later using coupling...

    Otherwise I think you have pretty good handle on how to get this done!

    Don't you forget to post the finished picture... ;)

    MARK
  • Sep 10, 2008, 04:26 AM
    speedball1
    new Plumbing Page Record** 100 Posts!
  • Sep 10, 2008, 10:22 PM
    mechanickid
    1 Attachment(s)
    I know this is a plumbing question but could you check over my electrical :) just to be sure, I'm pretty sure I followed code, I can take pictures if you need them, here is a diagram though
  • Sep 11, 2008, 03:31 AM
    massplumber2008
    Tom... if anyone was going to break the 100 post record.. you just knew I'd be involved somehow... huh? :)

    I swear...

    Brian... you didn't need to run #12 to everything, but since it's done you may as well run with it. I'll try to post a pic. Of how I would wire this later tonight!

    Talk then... MARK
  • Sep 11, 2008, 05:27 AM
    speedball1
    Bye the way Brain,
    Let me give KUDOS to both you and Mark. You for the great plumbing joib that I see pictured and Mark for guiding you through the process. You two demonstrate, to the max, what this page is all about. Congratulations on a job well done! Tom
  • Sep 11, 2008, 08:43 AM
    mechanickid
    Thanks Tom, I love this site, I'm on it all the free time I have now. :)
  • Sep 11, 2008, 09:03 AM
    ballengerb1
    I've been reading, maybe not all 100 posts, but reading most. Can't help any better than Mark. You are at the point that I might suggest an epoxy stain proof grout that is pre-mixed, use on the floor and the wall tiles. I would not have suggested greenboard for inside the shower stall. Hardibacker or Wonderboard are a much better choice. Use of greenboad inside wet area stopped a long time ago.
  • Sep 11, 2008, 10:09 AM
    mechanickid
    Hey Ballengerb,

    The walls are actually going to be a GP Tile board, and the shower has its own polystyrene walls, I was just using that for the backer
  • Sep 11, 2008, 10:10 AM
    ballengerb1
    OK, that will work, you won't even need as much stain proof grout.
  • Sep 11, 2008, 12:07 PM
    mechanickid
    Mark,

    OK, I made a stupid mistake, I have a venting issue,

    Orignaly I was going to run down the wall about 6ft then because of some duct working the ceeling was droped here, so I was going to do a turn down at a 45 degree angle and cut across the walkway to a closet where I cut cut it back up and then through a wall and up to the roof... I didn't think this would be a problem until DUHHH rain water and condesation will eventually build up here and stop my vent... so now I'm at a rut,, the only other way would be to do my orignal run of about 25 to 30 ft... BUT, I realized I could tie into a 3" CI existing vent... or i thought about this,,, i could but a reducing T and run a "drain" in the middle of that drop to the utility sink and this could double as a vent for that?? What do you think? Any ideas? I've been thinking about this all morning now.

    Let me know what you think
  • Sep 11, 2008, 02:33 PM
    speedball1
    Quote:

    I could tie into a 3" CI existing vent... or i thought about this,,, i could but a reducing T and run a "drain" in the middle of that drop to the utility sink and this could double as a vent for that?? What do you think?
    Brain,
    If the cast iron vent is a dry vent you could cut in a inverted tee and vent your sink, however if somthing's draining into the vent from above you must revent back to 6" above that fixtures flood rim. Good luck and you've done a hellava job. Tom
  • Sep 11, 2008, 03:01 PM
    mechanickid
    Tom,

    Well there is a sink but I would cut in 6" above that drain, that's the complicated way,, the other way I was thinking would be easiest,, well ither way its complicated I guess... lol its rough
  • Sep 13, 2008, 06:49 AM
    mechanickid
    When I cut into the iron Vent stack do I use shielded clamps again?
  • Sep 13, 2008, 07:12 AM
    massplumber2008
    Hi Brian...

    Yup... shielded clamps! Remember to support the stack above/below the cut.. just in case!

    Your wiring looked fine. I didn't post a pic as I figured maybe three different ways I could do it which made me recognize that what mattered is that you GFCI protected the fan and the shower light!

    Good job! Lot of junction boxes though... how come? And did you use any 12/3?

    MARK
  • Sep 13, 2008, 07:20 AM
    mechanickid
    Lol I was wondering if you were still there,

    Yea I used 12 3 for the two switches, and I used 12/3 for the jbox to the fan/light combo, haha I only used a box each time I switched the wiring.
  • Sep 13, 2008, 07:21 AM
    mechanickid
    How do I go about supporting this thing while its in a wall,? Did you happen to catch the post? What's your sujestion? Its post 113
  • Sep 13, 2008, 08:12 AM
    massplumber2008
    Support piping from underneath if pipes are exposed beneath... or just use common sense... just be safe and don't let anything drop on top of you... ;)

    Cut into drain line at 48" off finish floor...not 6" above drain, but 6" above the flood level rim of the sink (about 42-48") and connect into vent there... hopefully is 2". Or if necessary increase the vent size as we discussed awhile back and run that vent the 25 to 30 feet...

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