Gosh, you sure get up early! All I can say is this is my 1 time in thousand to disagree with you and be right. I have a funny feeling I better appreciate this one because it will be a lllooonnnnggggg time before it happens again.

What do you think about using a PRV on the church? Other than putting pressure tanks behind your checkvalves, which the other guy said would create a new set of problems, I can think of no other answer.

Of course, I still don't understand the "ping-pong" thing. I would think the large tank would basically act like a pump to supply water to the two smaller tanks and the two checkvalves would prevent oscillations. But, maybe not. The other guy seemed pretty certain.

I don't know why a PRV valve would help. I like the idea of one large pressure/bladder tank feeding two smaller bladder tanks with the check valves installed to contain the pressure in each of the smaller tanks. Once all the tanks are up to pressure and the check valves closed to prevent backflow from the smaller tanks back into the pump system when the pressure's drawn off from the smaller tank the pressure from the pump tank would force the check valve open and pressurize the smaller tank with then pressure equalized the spring loaded check valve would close to contain the pressure in the smaller tank if a draw were \made in the other system. With both smaller tanks isolated from the larger one by spring loaded check valves and the pressure equal in all tanks I fail to see how any "ping-ponging" could occur. But since I've already flaunted my ignorance on this thread perhaps I'd better just shut up. As I've said, pomps are a separate trade in my area and about the nonly time we get to work on them is if we're repairing something else and the OP asks us to check it out. It's the same for gas in my arrea. All of our water heaters are electric and the last time I piped for gas is when I did a shopping mall that had a bakery in it.
So whadda you think? Pump and large pressure/bladder tank, two spring loaded check valves installed feeding two smaller bladder tanks I'm the house and church.
Works for you? Cheers, Tom, and any time you see me make a bad call you come down on me with a correction. Thanks to you and everyone else on this page that's "backstopping" me.

I kind of like the PRV idea on the church line. Set low it would give preference to the house.

Harold,
Why cut the pressure going to the church and sen increased pressure to the house.
What am I missing?: Tom

If there is inadequate pressure and volume to satisfy both the church and the second story house bath, it seems like reducing the pressure (therefore the volume) to the church would would insure the pressure and volume to upstairs bath at the house.
We still don't know pipe sizes. Almost be willing to bet that the church line is 1" tied into a 3/4" line out of tank.

HK, I have been thinking the same thing about pipe size. Something has to be done to give the second floor a pressure advantage. That's what I thought about the PRV. I imagine a booster pump for the house would do the same thing.

Now I'm wondering if its wall hung toilet with a flushometer valve in the church. Wish the asker would have come back so we could clear this up. If it's a regular toilet, it shouldn't consume any more water than when a sink faucet is on. So I wonder if the upstairs bath has low pressure when a faucet in the church is running. If flushometer, you wouldn't be able to set a pressure reducing valve to low, or it wouldn't operater correctly.(unless they had a low pressure flushometer). Im just board, so I thought id add a little fuel. Lee.

Me too Lee. Wonder what has happened with the guy that drop the pump down the well.

You, id like to know how things worked out there too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hkstroud

What is the pipe size between the tank and the point where the church is tied in, what is the house pipe size after that point and what is the pipe size to the church.

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Pipe sizes: All measurements are diameter. From the well across the basement, 1 1/4" flexable hose, to a coupler to 1 1/2" junction with a well switch and gage (read 36 psi at time of measurement). Left from junction to a coupler to a 1 3/4" pipe to pressure tank. Right from junction to 7/8" pipe to filter, sterilizer, water softener (all 7/8"), to junction, 7/8" to church and 1" to house. Off the 1", a junction to 7/8" pipe to water heater.

I still suspect that the cheapest, easiest thing to at least try first is put a PRV valve on the church to prevent it from causing such a pressure drop when a toilet is flushed. Set the valve to 30# and see if it allows enough residual pressure for the house to help with your problem. But I suspect there will always be a pressure drop on the second floor when the church uses water. Thus is the world of well water.

I'd also try bypassing the UV unit just to be sure it is not restricting flow. Again, it's a cheap, easy first thing to try.

Thanks for all the advise. We're putting it all together to decide whaat the best solution will be.

Just hit me... a 7/8" pipe? I've never heard of one. Am I missing something here? Is this an inside vs. outside diameter thing?

Please help me with this! I built a minihome next to my 185 year old homestead. The well is fantastic at the old house (80 plus feet deep of pure, clean good water); the water at the minihome is VERY poor-full of minerals and continually discolours. Can I run a line from one well to the other? We share a driveway!

Assuming the minihome is fairly close to the good well, you can certainly run a 1" line to the minihome. However, you might want to add a second pressure tank (or a larger one) at the well to have a higher reserve.