Ok, I don't think it will be possible to install the riser clamp under a hub, there isn't a hub anywhere accessibly above where I will have to tie in. Is that horrible?

Does the riser clamp and the 2x4 supports remain in place permanently? Or just until after the connection is finished?

OK if no hub to go under... just tighten the clamp real good!

You remove the clamp and studs after you finish installing the clamps... ;) That is why you install cast into cast... axial loading is best with cast on cast!

This seems really manageable.

So, a related, but off topic question. Here in DC, only licensed plumbers can pull plumbing permits. I have a number of friends who have hired a plumber to simply pull the permit, spot check the work and be present at the inspection. I'd really like to go this route, I am sure I can get hooked up with a plumber. Have you ever done this (I doubt it)? Any guesses at a fair price?

No guesses at a fair price... simply wouldn't be helpful as prices for material and labor vary greatly from town to town, etc...

I have actually pulled a permit for someone else doing the work. We meet and discuss the work, they do the work, then I inspect the work, set the temperatures as required (120F to house and 112F to the tubs/showers) and then stand for inspection. I have only done it twice.. once for a friend and the other time for a guy that paid me a lot of money! YUP! 'fraid I sold out for money!

How much did it take for you to sell out? Less than if you had done the job, right?

I basically doubled my hourly rate was all... seemed reasonable! Took like 4 hours total time to lay out, discuss, inspect, pull permit and set temps.

Ok, great. That is my thinking. You and the homeowner made out on the deal. He saved a ton on the labor and you made twice your hourly.

Seemed reasonable... :)

OK, so it is not unheard of, right? With all your help I should be in pretty solid shape.

Just out of curiosity, what do you mean by setting temps?

Now, back to our regularly scheduled plumbing support...

When cutting through the cast iron stack, how important is it to have a straight cut? Any tips or tricks on getting a straight line?

Not unheard of, but I expect you will have some trouble finding someone out there... but someone will help!

Code requires that the water heating source have an output of 120F at all hot water outlets except for tub and shower valves.

The tub/shower valves are required to have a temperature limiting device that allows adjustment to the required 112F. You will find it mentioned in the installation instructions of your new valve .

You will need a thermometer in the correct range for this. They can be found at all plumbing supply stores. This is required before calling for final plumbing inspection (at least in my area... fihuring in your area as well!).

In terms of cutting the stack, take a piece of paper and wrap it around the stack, square the paper up so edges meet and then trace the straight line onto the pipe. Follow this line and the cut will be pretty straight!

Back to you...

Excellent. Also, don't think I mentioned this, but excellent idea on the level. Do you really do that, or are you able to eyeball it?

On the vertical runs of the DWV, how often do the pipes need to be supported? What do you use to support them?

Months ago you helped me plan out a house repipe with PEX. I opted to hold off on doing it until this addition goes in. Figure if I am going to make a mess of the house, I'm better off doing it all at once. So, a couple of questions to make sure I've got it right...

1) I will be using a manifold system. Should I run 3/8 or 1/2 to each fixture?

2) Depending on the above, what size hole should I drill, I know PEX expands?


Also from a previous conversation...

We will be putting a laundry closet on the second floor of the house, while we hope it never leaks, we want to be prepared. I've seen you recommend an automatic shut off system and/or a floor drain. In my application, what do you suggest?

Thanks!

I have a pitch level for bigger jobs and other than that.. I eye ball it on the site glass of the level... you can play with that before beginning... ;)

On vertical runs of DWV pipe you want to support at every floor and wherever it seems to make sense to stabalize the pipes. Galvanized clips under a fitting work well here. Horizontal runs are supported every 4 feet.

PEX

Run the 1/2" as a minimum to all fixtures. You will reduce to 3/8" compression using shutoffs. If you plan on installing high volume shower valve or multi. Head shower system then you will need to run 3/4" pex as a minimum to the showers... you would run these separate of the manifold. Hole size just needs to be 1/4" to 1/2" wider than the pipe.

Washing machine:

I like the floodstops (see pic.) with a pan for all second floor washing machines. They aren't perfect but they are better than nothing. Most important will be to buy the regular single lever shutoff (symmons or watts) and actually use the lever to shut off the water supply after each use. SS braided hoses are also a must!

The floor drain is a great idea, too, but the trap for the floor drain would also require a TRAP PRIMER to be installed and the floor would need to be pitched to the drain for the floor drain to be really useful during a smaller flood or washer overflow.

You could also combine both the floodstops and the floor drain.. up to you.

Excellent.

Back to PEX for a moment, if you don't mind...

1) Do you have a preferred manufacturer? Which product do you trust the most?

2) How do you handle the stub outs for the various fixtures, lavatory, toilet? Is there a method that will allow me to avoid copper all together? How about the stubouts for the clawfoot tub? Of course these will come up out of the floor?

3) How do you handle 90 degree turns?

I use the viega system... in my opinion, the best pex system. When running water or heat I use the FOSTAPEX... it is form stable and looks clenaer or less like spaghetti then the non-fosta piping.

Viega PureFlow - MANABLOC water distribution system, ViegaPEX tubing

This may not be readily available in your area. If it is, you may be able to RENT the crimping tools from the distributor instead of purchasing them.. ;)

Now, I am someone that transitions over to copper pipe before I stub out (see picture)... this way I can use all the regular finish shutoffs that I have always used. You don't have to as most manufacturers have shutoffs that fit their system... so you may not have to transition to copper.

When I do transition over to copper I make up a bunch of copper pieces with caps and elbows and solder them all together with a pex adapter. I count up all my hot and cold stub outs (I don't count tubs/showers as can direct connect PEX to these valves) and make up that many.

Then I go around and secure these stubs to where they belong using clips/hangers, etc. and then I run the PEX and crimp onto the stub outs. This is a fast way to do the job. You could also purchase the ready made stubouts from viega, but they cost a lot... much cheaper to just make them yourself.

Excellent. That Fostapex is like 3 times the cost of standard Viega Pex, is it worth it? None of my work will be exposed at all.

Do you use the Press or the Crimp fittings? Does it matter?

To avoid soldering, can I use something like this?

HydroPEX H180500 - $4.11 - HydroPEX - 1/2" PEX x 1/2" Copper (3-1/2" x 8") Copper Stub Ell

Fostapex is a little under double the cost of regular pex in my area, but if no exposed piping regular PEX is fine!

I mentioned, "You could also purchase the ready made stubouts from viega, but they cost a lot more". They would definitely reduce the number of soldered joints behind the wall and if you're not super confident in soldering then this is definitely best approach!

You can use compression shutoffs (see pic.) to reduce the number of soldered joints outside the wall, too.

Symmons and Moen (I think) make a viega PEX tub/shower and shower valve that would allow direct crimp to the valve... can be ordered at any supply house/internet site that works with viega.

The clawfoot tub... (I missed that in the last post):

You will need to run the pex to a threaded FEMALE adapter that gets secured so it is about 1/2" above the finished floor... this allows you to grab the fitting while tightening in a CHROME threaded nipple say 18" tall that threads into a ball shaped faucet attachment (or whatever faucet you choose). Then you slide a bell flange down the chrome nipple to cover the adapter sticking 1/2" above the floor. The chrome nipple may be a special order... OR note here that you need to decide on the exact faucet you want and then rough it in according to the manufacturer's instructions.


.

Excellent. Thanks.

Do you prefer the PEX Crimp method or the Push Pex? Does it matter or should I go with whichever is easiest to get the tools?

How do you handle right angles/90 degree turns? Do these work? Plastic Bend Supports - Wirsbo Plastic Bend Supports - PEX Plumbing - PEX Plumbing Installation

Thanks for the confirmation on the stubouts. I am sure it is much more expensive, but given the small scope of the project, I don't think it will break the bank and will keep me from burning the house down.

I think I understand the clawfoot tub setup, but how do you manage to get the adapter secured 1/2" above the finished floor?

Also, I think I will hold off on repiping the upstairs bathroom until we go to renovate it in a couple of years. Can I connect PEX to galvanized steel? I'd imagine the answer is yes, but I'd need to use some sort of a dielectric fitting, right?

Finally, just out of curiosity, what do you think of the prices on this website? Are they good, bad, close? Viega PEX Tubing - ViegaPEX Tubing - Vangurad PEX Tubing - PEX Tubing

Definitely prefer the CRIMP method. I have seen some of the push type pex fail... so not a fan there.

I handle 90 degree turns using the exact hanger you posted... ;)

Small scope of the job does make sense to go with prefab stubouts... good call!

I will draw up a great way to hang the adapters for the clawfoot tub.. give me a day or so, but you will like it... promise. BUMP me again if I don't get back quickly.

Dielectric fitting is essential... another good call! A union is great if pipes are exposed... if not, need to find another alternative fitting.

Finally, I will need to check prices tomorrow to compare against your prices... let you know when I post my drawing.

MARK

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stubits

Also, I think I will hold off on repiping the upstairs bathroom until we go to renovate it in a couple of years. Can I connect PEX to galvanized steel? I'd imagine the answer is yes, but I'd need to use some sort of a dielectric fitting, right?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mass plumber2008

Dielectric fitting is essential...another good call! A union is great if pipes are exposed...if not, need to find another alternative fitting.

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Plastic to galvanized, use a dielectric fitting? Doesn't make sense to me AT ALL unless I'm missing something.

Where is the two dissimilar metals when using plastic and galvanized? Just don't get it.

KISS the adapter between PEX and the galvanized will be made of BRASS (male or female thread) if you are using the VIEGA PEX system.

Brass to galvanized equals dielectric fitting... ;)


MARK