I have the same problem, and adjusting the float did not work for me. It still spills over into the overflow. Based on what hkstroud said, I guess I need to replace the seal in the fill valve? Is that difficult? Should I get a plumber or tackle it myself?

Which type of fill valve do you have.

For about $10 you can replace rage fill valve, recommend a Fluidmaster 400a.

Thank you, hkstroud and ballengerb1.
I am the same "jeremiahmccarve[r]" that asked the question, but I had login problems despite copying and pasting my login username and temporary password from the email sent to me by the help desk. It kept telling me I had it wrong, and then I reached my quota of attempts. So, I didn't want to be rude and not respond promptly since you both answered promptly, and I have been trying to get back on here for the last while since you responded. With that said, in answer to your question, hkstroud, I have the unit on the left-hand diagram.
Thanks.
JM

BTW, I have only had the toilet for about a year. I guess that is what I get for going cheap?

Many fill valve failures are due to debris in the water line. Even a small spec of junk can cause the valve seal to ot fully close.

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

Many fill valve failures are due to debris in the water line. Even a small spec of junk can cause the valve seal to ot fully close.

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That makes sense. Yet, I had my water lines all replaced many months ago, all the way to meter. So, I guess it would have to be coming from the city? At any rate, could too much volume in the water have anything to do with it, or too much pressure? In the past I have had problems with the release valve on my hot water heater releasing water. I keep the hose in a bucket so that I can know for sure when this happens, rather than in the drip pan. After weeks of this not happening, it just so happens that there was about a 1/4" of water in the pan the same night this problem began with my toilet. The hot water heater hasn't done that since that first night, a couple of nights ago, but the toilet still is messing up.

CORRECTION: I meant there was about 1/4" of water in the bucket.

Purchase a Fluidmaster seal, shown below.

Turn off water to toilet at stop valve under the tank. Remove tank lid and place in a safe place so you don't break it. Reach in under the float, raise float and grasp shank. While both holding the float up and holding the shank of the valve, press down and turn the cap of the valve 1/8 turn counter clockwise. Note the lever of the valve must be lifted while turning the cap.
After removing cap hold your hand over the top of the valve and turn the water on briefly to flush out any debris that may be trapped in the valve.

Replace the seal and reinstall the cap. Turn water on. Adjust water level if necessary. Water level should be 1" below the top of the overflow tube.

See this video.
How to fix a toilet: replacing the Fluidmaster 400 fill valve seal (HD) - YouTube

The above advice is made assuming you have a Fluidmaster fill valve. If you have some other brand of fill valve you will need to find the proper seal for that brand. If I have some other brand I would just replace the entire fill valve with a Fluidmaster as Bob suggested.

Thank you! I will work on this tomorrow when Lowe's opens and post the results!
Thanks!

I am having the same problem but mine is the first picture. (no leaks here, water just won't quit running!)

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Originally Posted by wwayland

I am having the same problem but mine is the first picture. (no leaks here, water just won't quit running!)

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Your flush valve isn't closing, totem washer or debris. I'd just replace it for about $13 with a Fluidmaster 400a

Hello I had to get a new pump in my well and I was getting noise coming from holding tank
My toilet tank water level has been high since I bought my house 4 years ago
I was told that the level is too high and a trickle could cause the pressure in holding tank to drop and then has to refill blagh blagh blahg
Ive been reading your questions and answers, so I tried to bend the arm and it worked, my arm is short, so it was hard to bend, but I got it bent slightly
When I flushed, the level was less about an inch below the top of tube
Is this now too low? Do I have to unbend it?

Darlene from Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, Canada

Hello Darlene,

There is an adjustment screw on Float Bar that lowers & rises the float are, as needed. No need to bend it.

Water lever 1/2" below the top of the overflow tube is not too low. However, I would recommend not to go any lower. There should be mark somewhere on the tube to indicate recommended water level.

Hope that helps

Milo