Thanks Tom. I'll look tonight when I get home. FYI, my sink is on a peninsula and the plumber told me I have a vent pipe that goes up the short wall that anchors the peninsula. My sink cabinet angles out from that short wall. Do you still think I have an AAV? Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by apple blossom

. Do you still think I have an AAV? Thanks.

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You're the one that brought it up. Check it out and get back to me. Cheers, Tom

Tom, I don't see anything that looks like the AAV image you provided so that's not it. From previous research I did I thought the problem was sewer gases backing up possibly because the water to one toilet has been shut off for several weeks. The plumber said no, that's not the problem. He went up on my roof and said it's venting fine but when I asked him to explain how he could tell that he wouldn't say. Honestly, he acted like I was asking for the "company secrets". I'm quite frustrated. Today, another company is coming over to look for a dead critter. Thanks.

AppleBlossom let me know how you make out.
Tried the same methods, I even swapped AAV's with the Bathroom. I then Capped AAV. Called Plummer, he is convinced that it is not sewer gas. We looked under cabinet all dry and clean. Could be between cabinets in open space on angle of Island sink. Anyone know if you can get an inexpensive Flexible Scope with fiberoptic light to search for critters between the cabinets & walls? They have some expensive units on the net.

I spoke to another Plumber. He said I better cut open the cabinet and look for problems. Well I cut a hole in the side under the sink and NO PROBLEMS. Dry as a bone. No Critters and no bad smell. The problem is that the odor still comes from under the sink and we can't locate it. Any other suggestions.

"The problem is that the odor still comes from under the sink and we can't locate it."
TF,
"under the sink" Does that mean the smell is coming from under the sink in the cabinet area or from under the cabinet floor? Regards, Tom

Tom, the odor is in the cabinet area not under the cabinet. We checked under the cabinets and no smell and dry.

I should have asked. Is there a disposal involved? Tom

We have a new home that we moved into in June. It has a partial basement with sump pump. When the air was on, we noticed a faint smell coming from the dining room register. When the heat was turned on it got stronger. I covered up the register and the oder became strong in the kitchen. When I opened up the cabinet next to the Dishwasher it was very strong. It is kind of an earthy smell. We contacted the Heating people and they said it was not a mechanical problem (on the phone) and that we should have stanley steamer come out and check and clean out the ducts. New houses can have just about anything stuffed in them. This was done, $500 later and the smell is still there. We called out the Builder Customer Service guy and he admitted to an oder, but thinks it is the sump pump area. I wonder why the smell would be so strong in a kitchen cabinet, if it is a sump pump odor. We have checked under the dishwasher and see no evidence of moisture. There is a disposal that appears to have a tube running to the dishwasher. I smell nothing in the disposal. There also appears to be no odor from other registers.
Any ideas?

Hi Carole,

"It is kind of an earthy smell." Sure sounds liike a mold problem to me. If it were a drainage problem it would smell like sewer gas plus rotting food and plain sewer gas has a smell all its own. A sump pump smell would smell damp and heavy and, besides, the system is a closed one. Yours has somehow got into your air ducts and migrated to the cabinet in the kitchen. Very strange!
I keep coming back to--" Perhaps Stanley Steamer missed the spot the mold was growing in." Have you considered calling them back for a second look?
Please keep me in the loop and let me know what goes down. Good luck, Tom

Tom, yes I have a Disposal under the sink. The house is only 18 months old. The disposal was cleaned and no odor from below or above from the disposal. I called in a neighbor that use to work for the GAS Co. He said the odor is sewage. He had a lot of experience on natural Gas Calls and reconizes sewer odors. So I called back the Plumber and he will come next week and we will try to eliminate all the pipes and joints above the sewer drain by cutting a hole on the cabinet floor and cap off the sewer drain. Even though the AAV was replaced and also taped closed, I will feel better if we cap everything right down to the cement slab. I don't know what to do after this, any other ideas, let me know.

Tom, I had an Exterminator take a look at and smell the odor. They are convinced that it is not an odor of a rodent or dead animal. Everything looked good to them. They also can not define the odor.

I did take apart the hose from the dishwasher to the disposal and found some debris stuck in the hose and cleaned with a snake and bleach and multiple dishwasher cycles. I decided to cut the cabinet floor open, all clean, I then pulled out the 2 pvc kitchen drain pipes. I then pulled out the Disposal. I pulled out the instant hot dispenser. I pluged up the sewer drain holes and have the cabinet empty except for water hoses and diswasher hoses. I still have the odor but can't define it. Need some new ideas?

Some where in that cabinet the smells just got to be stronger. It's coming from somewhere in there. It sure would help if you could define the odor. Then we would know where to start. Let's think "outside the box" for a minute. We've been focusing on the obvious, sewer gas or a dead critter. Could you have spilled something in the cabinet that could have leached into the wood? With everything remover from the cabinet is the smell, stronger? Weaker? About the same?
Is there anything different on has anything been added lately? No matter how trivial? Ya got me stumped! Let me know if you come up with anything. Tom

Tom, thanks for your ideas. After removing everything possible the odor is about the same maybe a little weaker. I pulled out the dishwasher and checked no problems. I like your idea of the cabinets. We did keep a garbage pail under the sink and we had an Instant hot dispenser that would get hot against the cabinet. Maybe the odor is in the Cabinet. I got a Scunci Steamer as seen on TV, and I just steamed all the wood surfaces and under the floor area and all the remaining hoses and pipes, also the cabinets in and out. Lets see if the steam helps and I will give it a couple of applications over the next 2 days.

I've read your postings (tf123 and speedball) with great interest as I have the same problem. Plumber couldn't find anything. Had a critter guy come out and he 99.9% guaranteed it was my garbage disposal. In fact he was so sure he didn't charge me for the visit nor did he check for any dead critters. Garbage disposal was replaced last week and that wasn't it. The smell is still there. I just don't know what to do next. This has been a problem for over a month now. If it was something dead wouldn't it have decomposed by now?
Thanks.

Hey Blossom,

About the best you're going to do is follow the postings sent by users with the same problem. Sooner or later someone's going to come up with the answer.
We've explored all the possibilities and come up with zip. I have no more suggestions and can only hope that somewhere out there someone will stumble on a solution. So keep on checking this thread. I know I will. Cheers, Tom

Some sink strainers have a liner (usually to make the strainer match the color of the sink. Try removing the liner and seeing if there is any slug between the liner and the sink strainer. Cheers

I too, had the foul odor coming from under my kitchen sink. Unfortunately it was caused by a leaky old iron drain pipe under my home. I did as some of you suggested and replaced the entire iron pipe with PVC and the leak is fixed.

HOWEVER! Because it took me so long to discover just what the smell was and from where it was coming, I now have a standing puddle of sewer water under my floors. The puddle is maybe 4’x 6’ and at most an inch deep. Luckily it isn’t from a toilet drain, but the sewer smell is still pretty disgusting.

I have a crawl space (if you want to call it that) under my floors and so it is not practical to just sop up all the water or try to cover it with fresh dirt or other such material. I do have the vents opened under the house to allow for air to circulate, but because the temperature is now hovering around freezing, I’m not sure how much good it is doing. And I do not want to cause more trouble by freezing the surrounding water pipes.

Is there a product I can sprinkle on the puddle that will help “digest” the organic matter and thus clear the air even if the water is still there for the winter? I hate to use a bleach or similar product because of the strong smell it will leave behind. What I am in need of is a SUPER POWDER that will take all the smells away. I was thinking of maybe a septic tank cleaning additive or like product. Any suggestions?

Hi Bill,

Have you considered using quick lime? You may get some information from this. Good luck, tom


Clean It - Dry It - Disinfect It:
Mold and Mildew Control
By Jane K. Frobose, Colorado State University
Cooperative Extension, Denver County
October 1, 1999

Although the headlines have focused on North Carolina, damage from heavy rains and flooding can happen anywhere.

While Coloradans can feel somewhat immune from the havoc of a hurricane, no one is completely safe from the possibility of household plumbing accidents.

Just ask anyone who has encountered a plumbing problem. Water unleashed can cause huge damage to a home. A normally dry, semi-arid atmospheric environment can become a moist breeding ground for molds and mildew. Water damage also is a problem.

Molds produce mildew, a growing organism, gray to bluish-green. Molds grow in damp, warm, poorly aired and dimly lit areas. Eliminate growth factors and the problem can be kept to a minimum.

Generally, you can find mold anyplace where moisture or relative humidity levels are high -- wet or damp basements, for example. Here mold can grow on walls, floors or carpeting. Moisture from the earth can migrate through concrete walls and floors.

Water from utility backup, leaky pipes or condensation from an air conditioner or dehumidifier can support mold growth. Some building materials -- plaster, drywall, insulation, wood and wood flooring -- can wick moisture beyond the original wet spot.

Affected areas and items must be cared for immediately. Clean it. Dry it. Disinfect it.

Use a grease-cutting solution of detergent and water to wash walls and floors. Rinse with clear water to remove cleaner residue. Trisodium phosphate (TSP) effectively cleans grease, soil and flood residue. Take precautions when using harsh cleaners. Wear rubber gloves and avoid breathing the powder or getting it in the eyes.

Use large fans and dehumidifiers to dry a wet area quickly and thoroughly. Empty the dehumidifier's water collection pan frequently. Mold can grow in the standing collection water. If outdoor air is dry, leave windows open to promote drying.

It can take several weeks for wood and building materials to dry completely. Sun drying is effective for portable items, but do it carefully. Sunlight kills mold, but it also can fade textiles and other natural surfaces. Completely dry all items and areas before rebuilding, re-packing or storing.

It is nearly impossible to clean and dry carpet padding, upholstered furniture and soaked mattresses quickly enough to prevent mold growth.

Disinfectants kill mold growing on hard surfaces such as walls and hard floors. Disinfectants must be registered with the Environmental Protection Agency with an EPA registration number on the product label.

One of the most effective and least expensive disinfectants for hard surfaces is chlorine bleach. Use only bleach with 5.25 percent sodium hypochlorite. Follow directions on the label or use a solution of one-half to three-fourths cup bleach to one gallon of water. To kill mold, keep the solution on the affected area for 10 to 15 minutes. When cleaning with a chlorine bleach solution, wear rubber gloves and protect skin. Keep the solution away from eyes and skin and avoid prolonged breathing of vapors. NEVER mix bleach with ammonia or other household cleansers containing ammonia. Before disinfecting, clean hard surfaces thoroughly with a detergent solution.

If permitted to grow, molds and mildew can cause considerable damage to furniture. If left unattended, fibers and fabrics can be discolored and unrepairable fabric rot can result. Natural woods and fibers tend to be the most affected. Brush the mold off outdoors, so spores do not scatter within the house. When using a vacuum, dispose of the cleaner bag. It will contain mildew-producing fungi.

If safe for the fabric, launder washable items with detergent and chlorine bleach. Do not dry until all stain has been removed. Avoid piling wet clothes or other fabrics. Moist, warm and dark conditions in the pile's center provide excellent growing medium for mildew. Take nonwashables to the dry cleaners. Identify the stain for best dry cleaning results.

The following guidelines will help control mold and mildew growth in water-damaged homes:

Promptly clean and thoroughly dry wet carpeting, upholstery, clothing and household items.
If water is in your basement, quickly remove as many items as possible -- furniture, carpeting and stored boxes of household items. Remove standing water promptly and use a disinfectant or light chlorine bleach solution to scrub walls and floor.
Mildew grows best in a moist, dark, warm environment. Use fans to circulate air. Dehumidifiers will remove excess moisture in the air.
Spores from mold and mildew could be dangerous to your health. Take care when working with items that smell musty or are filled with mildew.
For a fact sheet about this topic, contact Jane Frobose, Colorado State University Cooperative Extension agent for Family and Consumer Sciences in Denver County, Colorado at (303) 640-5276 or e-mail at [email protected] or contact your local Colorado State University Cooperative Extension office.

Just checking in... I still have the smell under my kitchen sink. Three different plumbers couldn't find anything wrong. Another company confirmed it's not something dead under the house. Garbage disposal has been replaced. Instant Hot unit has been removed. I've scrubbed out the entire cabinet. All the supplies, etc I had under there have been removed. Right now I have three open boxes of baking soda under there and that has helped but not cured the problem.

I'll keep checking this thread. Thanks.

tf123 - did you ever solve your problem? Sounds exactly like mine.