Do you know the brand and model of than acrylic pan you have there? On the Oatey gasket, can you tell us what else it says like a part number or serial number?

I just had all the walls tiled and glass shower doors installed and now the pan has to come out. Ouch!! Will this drain leak that bad?? Can it be sealed from above enough to get by?

Will it leak, why not test it but answer my questions in post #21

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Originally Posted by Martyp

I just had all the walls tiled and glass shower doors installed and now the pan has to come out. Ouch!!! Will this drain leak that bad??? Can it be sealed from above enough to get by??

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You can caulk the drain lip with Silicon Jel and hope. After you caulk and it sets up jam some rags down the drain and put a inch or so of water in the shower. If you don't see a leak after it sets for a hour then you've contained the leak. Good luck, tom

Try this: once you yank out that black rubber seal you will be left with about 1/8" gap between the lip of the drain and the pan. You can dry out the flange/drain area with hair dryer and when ABSOLUTELY DRY squeeze in, and underneath, the lip lots of good clear silicone, like 50 year GE product. Do not apply with fingers, apply with carefully cut silicone tube tip. Then, push the drain flap into it by tapping it with hammer over block of wood. Let dry for 3 days. Absolutely NO WATER. Then, Cut off excess of silicone with box cutter.

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Originally Posted by Martyp

I just had all the walls tiled and glass shower doors installed and now the pan has to come out. Ouch!!! Will this drain leak that bad??? Can it be sealed from above enough to get by??

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You can caulk the drain lip with Silicon Jel. After it sets up jam dome rags down the drain to seal it and fill the shower with a inch of water. Let it set for a hour and if you don't see any moisture then you've contained your leak. Good luck, Tom

The pan is a Lasco 6034 cpan and the oaty drain has the following : SBCCI, PST&ESI, ASTM,D2661.

If Marty can answer my questions in post #21 I may have the solution. Its an Oatey for sure but which one. Some acrlic pans, like Swanstone and Florestone, use a special sleeve that is driven down over the 2" PVC and between the shower sump making the seal. That larger black washer may not even be needed. Look at his pics, I think I can see the sleeve between the pipe and the gasket.

The Oatey has the following : SBCCI, PST&ESI, ASTM D2661, D2665. The acrylic pan is a Lasco 6034 CPAN.

Well according to Lasco that pan came with a brass drain flange so my thoughts won't work, sorry.

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

If Marty can answer my questions in post #21 I may have the solution. Its an Oatey for sure but which one. Some acrlic pans, like Swanstone and Florestone, use a special sleeve that is driven down over the 2" PVC and between the shower sump making the seal. That larger black washer may not even be needed. Look at his pics, I think I can see the sleeve between the pipe and the gasket.

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I think it is regular fat washer that fits over the pipe and is squeezed down, and against the pipe with notched, large, black plastic nut.

Just to make one thing clear: Of course, there is another black, plastic nut under the pan holding the drain against the pan itself. Just like the one Tom posted in his post #5.

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Originally Posted by speedball1

Either one's acceptable. We always used plumbers putty but then I've been retired for over 20 years. Milo's trying to let you down easy. Your plumber goofed and installed the drain wrong. There is no simple repair. The floor must be opened up and the drain reinstalled correctly. Good luck, Tom

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Tom, we still use plumber's putty !

I'm not a lumber but I have had silicone peel away after a wile so I am leaning towards the putty. Maybe there is a good silicone product out there that I am not aware of.

It peeled off because the surface it was applied to was not clean. We use Denaturated Alcohol in spray bottle. We spray the area with it and wipe it clean and dry with clean terry cloth. Only then we apply silicone.

Problem with putty application in your situation is that putty will not hold the drain down to the pan. Silicone will. Once remove the rubber washer you will have a large gap left. That gap has to go. You will have to push the drain flange down after you apply silicone, put weight on it, and leave it there for 72 hours minimum to dry. Only then you will have good chance for positive seal.

Remember, you cannot get under the pan to tighten the large nut to pull the drain body nice 'n' tight against the pan.

Thank you for the info. I'll try it.

Milo, the little alcohol tip is worth remembering. Thanks.

Actually, a drain did not come with the Lasco pan. We got the plastic Oatey drain at the hardware store. Hopefully it is the one that doesn't need the rubber washer. Thank you for the info. This answer refers to Ballengerb1's answer earlier.

Actually, Milo gave the great tip. Always like to get kind words, but I have to pass that one on to him.