Thanks- I was kind of shocked when I took it all apart and saw the design. I'm not an engineer but am pretty skilled with mechanical things and I could easily see that this was a bad design. When I checked my other sink was detached. Just did not have the mold and rotten smell

Will look at glues but agree it needs some kind of backing to hold it in place and the ribbed groves are trapping moisture and mold.

Suggestion.

Try Locktite two part epoxy. There is a marine version. Comes in different drying times.

Mix up a small amount and dab a little on each part to check for adhesion. Pick spot that will not interfere with actual joining. Let it cure well. Cure time depends on temperature and humidity. Test adhesion after curing, chances are you won't be able to remove the test spots.

Probably have to tape the parts together while drying.

That should give you a permanent repair.

6/6/2015: Just did a bathroom cabinet change out, and after removing the Corian sink top (to reuse), I discovered the same issue with the overflow tube/flange coming unglued from the underside of the sink assembly. My set up is exactly like the photos posted above from OP. Original adhesive/glue failed. Will Try the DAP, and hope it works.

This might be an old thread, but I just discovered the same problem in my 19 year old Corian sink. It's amazing what comes up on the internet - this was the first hit!

Thanks to all.

Hello DcLynch:

This is a 6 years old thread. Start your new thread by posting new question.

In the interim: we always used Silicon to attach sink overflow to Corian sink with great success.

Milo

We have 4 floors ( 22 rooms per floor with these sinks) we have tried everything that's listed and NOTHING holds up. We are looking into tapping overflow hole with 1/2 pipe threads. Then getting a 1/2" 90 ( plastic) with male threads and 3/4 barb for overflow tube. We think the overflow fitting was hot glued in with sink upside down.

Quote:

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We are looking into tapping overflow hole with 1/2 pipe threads.

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How you going to do that if you have the elongated overflow hole?

Quote:

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We think the overflow fitting was hot glued in with sink upside down.

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I agree. Hot glue will stick to Corian but only so well. When gluing two pieces of Corian together you have to clamp them to get a tight joint. When you can't get clamps across both pieces, you hot glue two strips of wood to the top surface. You them clamp the wooden strips together. After the adhesive has dried you pop the wooden strips up and scrape the hot glue off.

You say you have tried the silicone and the two part epoxy. Those might not last for ever but certainly long time. Even hot glue should last as long as the original.

Have you tried cyanoacrylate glue? If not suggest you try some on the plastic part. Suppose to adhere to most plastics.

If it will adhere to the plastic, try it. Cyanoacrylate will stick to Corian.

As an experiment I went out to the shop and found a piece of scrap Corian 3/4" by 3/4". Cut two pieces 6" long. Ran through table saw to get clean edge.

I then glued them together (1 1/2 X 3/4 X 6) with some medium cyanoacrylate glue. Clamped with quick clamps. Let dry for about 30 minutes. Temperature about 45 degrees.

Seem to be well bonded.

Put in a vice clamping one piece. Used an 8" adjustable wrench to grip the other piece. While I was able to break them apart, it took some effort. About the amount of force you would need to break loose a well tightened 3/4" bolt.

May have been stronger if I had let cure longer.

Took more force to break the joint apart than it took to break a 3/4" X 3/4" X 6" piece into.

PS
Made a nice joint also. When sanded, the seam disappeared, just like with the Corian adhesive. Now I can glue my Corian scraps together without the Corian adhesive.