Yep, its time to get the plumber back in to do a proper test. Gas really isn't something to be taking chances with. I would suggest having them do a complete system pressure check, not just the new gas line. Once they are there, you might as well have them pressure it all up and find and fix any leaks they find. Mark is dead on for testing system. We unhook from meter, then put on a fitting that has a gauge with scrader vavle (actuall gas testing gauge) then disconnect all appliences at unions and cap. We actaully test at 20 pounds for 15 minutes(I know, overkill but overkill is better than kill). Then once test holds and is approved, reconnect meter and appliences, then soap all joints that did not under go pressure test(unions that were capped, meter spuds, gas valves, pilots tubes etc,) just to make double sure. Also a good idea to spray complete shutoff valves at each applience, as they do have a tendency to leak at stem.

Long story short,, bahomeowner, get a pro into take care of this for you. I don't mean to be a drama queen, but it could be a matter of life and death.

Hi Harold

Even the last test I did was with my licensed plumber and I am going to do that this weekend.

I just want to make sure that the test I did today and posted in this discussion thread is correct and would like to know everyone's comments and suggestions.

Thanks

I hope you don't mind if I jump in with my 2 cents... You already got excellent responses above...

1. It is much more difficult to test entire gas system, meaning old and new piping. Some Inspectors will allow you to test only the new part but I understand that may not be the option in your situation. To test only new pipe, you would start with Gas Rated Ball valve at the point of connection with old system and continue to the new location. Then, you can just shut off the ball valve, put gauge on the other side of the new pipe and pressure it. ( Btw: This ball valve has to be accessible and if inside the wall, access door must be installed ) But I understand some Inspectors will ask you to test entire gas system prior signing off final inspection.

2. It is difficult to test entire system the way you are attempting to test it. As other Experts already mentioned above, do not test the gas meter.

3. You have to remove all gas valves and install rigid pipe caps on each of its location. Gas valves used to connect appliance with gas flex may not hold 10 psi. Most of them are rated for less. The valves we are using are rated for 3 psi. Therefore, if you leave them on the pipe they will slowly release pressure giving you the reading you are getting.

4. Also, since you are testing entire house system, you could have a small leak anyplace in the system. This leak may not leak under regular pressure on house side ( 0.3 psi in my area), but will leak when pressurized to 10 psi.

5.It is difficult to trace old leaks since you may have leaking joint somewhere inside the wall, in crawls space hidden behind a joist, or in the attic covered with insutalion. That's why we always try to test only the new work.

It is certainly a job for professional plumber, not for a HomeOwner.

Let us know how you did... Interested to know how you solved this problem... Good Luck... Milo

Hi All

I really appreciate all your experts response to my question.

I had done all the above test with a professional licensed plumber. We had modified the gas line to add an extension for the cooking range. Once we verified the leaks, we wanted to pressure test the line. We inserted gas gauge on the end where it was going to be connected to the gas range, and pumped in air from end after shutting down the main valve. We had removed the gas lines to appliances (water heater and central air to avoid any issues as per the experts advice in this forum). We did not remove the gas line near the main gas valve as we did not want to break it or damage it right now. After the preparations were done, we started to inject air from the other end of the gauge and still the reading was at 0. We changed a different gauge and still the same problem.

Any suggestions please...

Thanks

Did you disconnect gas meter and plugged the pipe before it goes into your house ?

Did you use compressor to pump up the system ? Or hand pump ?

Hi Milo

No that's the only thing I did not do as the licensed contractor thought the pipes being old might cause some other issues and decided to do it later.

We used compressor to pump the air into the line.

Thanks

You are doing this with the assistance of a licensed plumber?

Yes - All my tests were done and reported in this thread was with a licensed contractor.

But is he a plumber?

He is a general contractor.

You really need a licensed plumber on this one. If you didn't disconnect meter you most likely have already damaged meter. Its this simple,, if gauge doesn't go up at all, there is a serious leak somewhere. I wish you the best of luck, not much more we can do for you from here. Take care. Lee.

Gas meters in my area have pressure regulator installed on left side of the meter. The regulator reduces incoming gas pressure to 0.3 psi. If you happen to have such a pressure regulator on your gas meter than all pressure you are trying to put in is most likely escaping through the regulator.

I agree with MGD77: call licensed plumber, journeyman. He'll know how to deal with it. It is gas you are dealing with so you want to be 100% sure all is tested properly.

Hi All

Sorry for not updating you the status. I finally got the contractor to plug the lines that are connected to my appliances. I also removed the main connection near the meter reading and plugged it as well. I installed 2 guages one near the main line and the other near the other end of the new gas line in the kitchen and pumped in 10PSI air into the line.
I waited for 15mins and I noticed small drop in air pressure maybe it went around 9.8 or 9.9PSI. Is that acceptable as per the standard testing.

Thanks

Bahomeowner

Such a small drop in pressure is acceptable. It may be caused by pressure equalizing across the system and / or by differences in temperature as the pipes run throughout your house. But you are definitely on the right tract.

However, if it continues steady decline, you should investigate. Leave it pumped up for 30 minutes and see how low it will drop.

I personally find any drop whatsoever in fifteen minutes unacceptable. I would do as Milo says and retest for thirty minutes. If pressure keeps dropping, pump system up to 50 pounds or so and soap all accessible joints.

Hi All

I tested multiple times and I noticed that the pressure is held at 10PSI for 15-30 minutes but it drops down over a period. I mean if I look at 1hr it will be at 9.8PSI and so on.

Does it mean the pipes are leaking?

Thanks

Tanveer

Hi All

I would really like to thank you all the experts for their valuable guidance and patience in answering my questions. I finally got the gas pressure test passed. The inspector finally approved the pressure test. I followed the instructions as provided by the experts in this forum and it really worked.
I have one last question to ask - I need to get the mechnical final inspection where I have been told to get the appliance in place and call for inspection.

Can you please let me know what needs to be done...

Thanks

BaHomeOwner

Well, I wouldn't think so. What are they going to inspect, it's a stove not a furnace. Call the local building office, but I would think the gas inspection should be all that is needed.

They do it when they are slow. Inspector wants to see a gas shut off valve installed on each appliance and also wants to see the type of gas flex you used. That's all. This inspection will be only a formality. Inspector should be in 'n' out in 2 minutes.

I had the gas range right in place - I told the inspector I can hook it up and keep it ready. He just took only 5mins for the gas pressure test. He told me call for another inspection and that is costing me 100dollars.

Thanks

Bahomeowner