Don't open the wall by the toilet just to change that wye fitting around. If it's in there it will be fine!

In terms of the wye fitting and the sanitary tee... check back later tonight and I'll draw something up... :)

MARK

Mark-

Many, many thanks!

Here is that pic (I had a few more minutes than I thought)... :)

Picture on left is existing, of course.

Picture on right is what should have been done.

Let me know if you have questions...

MARK

Wow! This is perfect! I totally get it now. Thanks so much!

By the way...

That flexible gas connector by the washing machine should be disconnected and the gas line should be capped off... even if only temporary. Just to be safe... ;)

In fact, the gas pipe should be stubbed out of the wall and capped (without shutoff). Then later after the walls are sheetrocked you add the shutoff and any other piping needed.

Just F.Y.I.

MARK

I had to go back and look at the photos. Unfortunately that work all took place about 6 months ago and the walls are all up and painted, but thanks for the advice. Obviously I didn't know better 6 months ago, but the next time around I'll be sure to do so.

We are in the process of having an addition built on our house and were faced with the decision of adding a laundry room to the addition or to an existing closet. With the advice/guidance you and Tom provided it definitely works best in the existing closet, freeing up some space in the addition. It also reduces the cost of the addition and allows me to handle this when I have the time and the resources. Just wanted to make sure it was really possible before I pulled it from the addition.

Thanks!

Post # 23: In the posted photo: incoming 2" line is reduced to 1 1/2" before it connects to 3" sanitary T. Change it to 2" all the way... and do not use San T . Use Y.

Geez Milo.. thanks for your input on this one... :rolleyes:... but you may want to start back at post#12 where we already went over what you stated in GREAT DETAIL

Then look at post #23 again will you? Seems I not only stated what you did but I also drew it all up with an added vent for the tub?

Mark- One last question. Looking at the photo, do you think I'll be able to fit all of this? I'm really hopeful I can.

Thanks!

I sure think you can...

All in all it will be easy IF you use a shielded clamp as in the picture below.

Here, you will pipe the 3" wye and the tub and tub vent and then use the clamp to join the final fit between the 2" pipes that will need to join together (old to new).

The rubber sleeve is actually folded back on itself so you can roll the new 2" pipe into alignment with the old pipe and then flip the rubber sleeve back over and then slide the clamp in place...

That should get the underground finished anyway.

Let us know if need help above ground.

MARK

So, I am sure it's a foolish question, but why use a clamp instead of just gluing all the pieces together?

I've yet to see a "foolish" question out of you yet Stubs

Most likely there will not be enough flexiblity in the pipes to allow you to install a PVC coupling at the junction where old 2" pipe meets new 2" pipe. Pipe would need to move at a minimum 3/4".

It can be done without clamp, but wanted you to know other option.. if needed.. :)

Nothing worse then starting the job to find out you can't finish it without going BACK TO HOME DEPOT.. ya know?

Purchase a shielded clamp and a 2" PVC coupling... return the one not used!

MARK

Ok, so just so I understand, I should scrap just about everything that's under there right now, right? The 2" coming in from the left, should I cut that before the fittings (45s), then remove the p-trap and cut the current sanitary tee where it ties into the 3"?

What fittings do you suggest for getting the 2" to curve around on its way to wye? Basically same as currently exists or is there a better way?

Now, everywhere else I should just glue it all up, right? I am just hoping there's enough room to tie into the 3".

Bump...

Hi Stubs:

Check out my pic. Below. Let me know if all makes sense.

MARK