Can I apply the cement board on top of the already placed green board.

In addition, it was really difficult to apply the holes for the handles, and the cement board seems really hard to cut, I don't have the right tools. Does home depo cut it to my dimensions?

I don't know how the flange level with the level of the tile. I have to make sure when I go home today.

I will have to make sure that the flange is at the same level.

Can I place the cement board on top of the green dry wall, in addition the holes for the shower handles were really hard to cut out with the green board. How do I make with in a cement board?

Just to let you know, you took my happiness away! I thought I was done, now I have all this work to do:-(

Toolbeltgirl... sorry again... no to putting concrete board on top of greenboard... same issues, rot/mold, wicking occurring only now there is concrete board on top... just not considered good practice. You take care.

You would be compounding your problem to put Wonderboard on topo of drywall. Just rip it down and remove all nails/screws. Also, your shower mixer is not designed for a wall this thick and you may throuw off the shower pan guys. Hardiebacker is a bear to cut. You can score it like drywall but make 3-4 cuts and be prepared for a difficult snap. I frequently use a carbide blade on a circular saw but you need a mask and goggles. Cement board cuts the same as Hardie, just a bit easier. You can also cut both with a course blade in a jig saw, through the blade away when done.

The inside of the showe walls are 8ft high. The tile is only going up to 61/2 ft.

Is it OK to just place the cement board to where the tile will be applied or do I do it up to the ceiling? The tile is also going to be applied as 4ft around the bathroom, so I have to applie the special board there?

You can stop the cement board at the top of your tile line at 6.5'. The 4' of tile around the rest of the room can be just greenboard, I think you said you already used greenboard for the rest of the room so it can stay.

The tile company is actually installing the cement board in the shower. And I removed the green dry wall last night.

Regarding the toilet, do you think I can replace the base where the toilet is supposed to go, or should I hire someone to do that?

Thank you

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Regarding the toilet, do you think I can replace the base where the toilet is supposed to go,

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By "base" do you mean the toilet flange? Why do you wish to replace it? If it's broken they make repair kits for that. If it's just rusty then it should be OK. Give us the details. Regards. Tom

It's just really rusty. Also the previous owners let a toilet leak damgage the floor, I'm not sure if that leak was coming from the valve that turns on and off, or ift it was because of the flange being so old!
Thank you

Wire brush the flange a bit but the wax seal should still make a good seal againist sewer gas. Once everything is back together check your supply stop for dripping, same for the connection at the underside of the tank. If you are installing a new toilet or never set a toilet before we can help with that. Tom's done a million toilets and I'm just 999,000 behind him.

Ok, right now I have a rag covering the whole to prevent the gases from coming up. My understanding is that I should take the flange a part (is there a screws keeping it together on top) then proceed to brush with a wire brush, and place it all together again.

I'm bying a water saving toilet, and the wax to go around the glange. Is there something else I'm missing?

Don't remove the flange, just brush it in place and vac up any debris. The toilet will likely come with all parts installed inside tha tank, you mount the toilet to the floor and then the tank on the toilet. You can usually buy a small kit that has the wax ring, replacement brass bolts and braided supply line, this kit is pretty much the only stuff not supplied with the toilet. Remember to remove that rag! When you are ready to set the toilet come on back here and we can walk you through the tspes, not difficult and we will try to not breaker your china.

I checked the flange last night after I cleaned it up. There was a brass wring (very old) around it, the nails were all rusty, and it was loose (there was 3 screws on it but they were not attached to anything. The actual inside was very soft, and it had a small hole on the side. When looking inside the hole, you could see that the soft part was placed inside the hole, and it looks removable. Do you think I should just get a plumber to come over and fix it for me?

Thank you

While looking through the web, it seems to me that I can purchase a device that is going to fit inside the hole and allow for the ring to be attached to it on top, followed by the wax.

I also noticed that there are pieces that have the ring and the inside fitting thing already put together. Actually one claimed that it did not need the wax ring making it easier to apply the toilet on top. Since I'm 5ft tall and only 110 lbs, I thought that applying the one without the wax my be easier for me. What do you think?

You can always call a plumber anywhere along a project if you feel you may be getting over your head. Any chance of a picture of what you see? That would help a lot. Does it look like any of this? Installing A New Toilet