 |
Double check that package, they sometimes come with two plastic compression rings, one for 1.5 and another for 1.25" pipes. You may be using the wrong ring. When you slide the ring onto the tail piece it should be slidable but give some resistance, it is snug.
They are both the same size. They are slideable but not snug. Please advise.
What do you mean by "prime and glue"?
Does the ring have any wiggle to it once it is on the pipe? If it does it is not the correct ring, they must be snug. Do you still have the packaging it came in, if so, what does it tell us?
We did a quick exchange there and I got confused. Who talked about prime and glue, Speedball1, Iamgrowler or Ballengerb1?
Instructions for installing a new lavatory waste
The first part of the waste is connected as per instructions that came with it, starting with the piece that comes through the drain hole in the lavatory bowl. The flange piece that sits on top of the hole needs plumbers putty to seal the flange. The threads on the shaft need pipe thread compound so water does not seep down the threads through the large rubber gasket that connects to the bottom of the bowl with the bevel part touching the bowl. The bottom nut is then snugged down firmly but not so hard as to break the flange or the bowl. The plunger rod is inserted in the hole in the back of the faucet and connected via the additional parts provided to connect to the back of the lavatory waste to operate the drain plunger. The 1 1/4" threaded tailpiece is then made ready by applying pipe thread compound on the threads and hand threaded inside the bottom of the lavatory waste assembly. from here you will connect the trap, either directly is it is high enough or by way of an extension pipe. the trap and extension pipe has an enlarged portion at the end to receive the 1 1/4" tailpiece from the lavatory waste assembly. The top of this enlarged portion has threads to receive a nut which is called a slip joint nut. A beveled plastic or square cut rubber washer which is called a slip joint washer is installed under the nut. On the plastic washer the flat side touches the nut. This nut is tightened enough that it compresses the washer and firmly holds the joint from leaking or slipping. This is called a slip joint or a slip joint connection. The trap is designed to hold about 2 to 4 inches of water which keeps sewer odor from entering the home. The pipe from the trap goes into the wall at a gradual slope and should be a slip joint there or it could be a soldered [copper with melted lead/tin] joint or threaded or a fernco [rubber sleeve with hose clamps].
Not me -- I'm every bit as befuddled as you are.Quote:
Originally Posted by ballengerb1
Y'know, some folks should just padlock their tool kits, throw away the key and put a reliable Plumber on their speed dial.
Growler you got me rolling on the floor. Had that though a few times today. Anyone else want to join the befuddled team, we got room.
I'm not amused gentlemen. Speedball1 is the person who mentioned "prime and glue"...
Right.Quote:
Originally Posted by bredin01
Speedball (as did Ballenger B) also gave you a very concise step by step 'primer', including illustrations, describing how to accomplish the task.Quote:
Speedball1 is the person who mentioned "prime and glue"...
Frankly, I'm baffled by your continued confusion.
This whole situation sounds like an individual 'playing' the guys trying to help. We are honestly trying to help you and if you are unable to garnish and apply the information given you should never own tools. I personally will not be further responding to this string.
It's not a matter of confusion, it's a matter of your advice not working as you say it will. I need to know what speedball1 meant by "prime and glue". I am not a plumber like you folks are and I do not appreciate the critical remarks. I accomplish plenty of projects with tools and do not need your cocky remarks. My specialty is high tech sales and I would certainly never be critical of those who are not as educated as I am when asking for help. Some of your remarks are simply uncalled for. If you would like to help then help, otherwise don't provide your critical responses. Anybody can do that.
To join, or make a joint, between two pieces of PVC you must first paint the parts with PVC primer to remove the glaze. Next you paint the joints with glue to weld them together. Are we past the connection between the trap raiser and the tailpiece? Do you understand what you'll need to complete the connection? Regards, TomQuote:
I need to know what speedball1 meant by "prime and glue".
Speedball, thanks for your kind response. The tailpiece and "raiser" (6" connector pipe) is brass and they came with "slip joint" parts. The problem is that when using these parts the tailpiece is not snug on the 6" connector pipe below it.
And it be if you changed the compression nut to a 1 1/2 X1 1/4" compression nut with a 1 1/4" gasket.Quote:
Originally Posted by bredin01
Sorry, I was under the impression that you were working with PVC. My apologies! Tom
Is a compression nut and gasket the same as a slip joint assembly?
Yes. The compression nut compresses the gasket against the tailpiece and this makes a water tight connection. Regards, tomQuote:
Originally Posted by bredin01
So I presume that the ones that were enclosed in the packaging are of poor quality and that is why they are not snug even though they state that they are for a 1 and 1/4" pipe? I guess I need to try and buy some other one(s)?
Now I need some information. You say the trap's metal, is it 1 1/2 or 1 1/4"?
Regards, Tom
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:10 AM. |