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    violet0019's Avatar
    violet0019 Posts: 208, Reputation: 9
    Full Member
     
    #1

    Dec 6, 2009, 10:14 AM
    How to get a stronger flush on the old toilet/and holes in rim at top?
    I live in an upper duplex and there are two older toilets (1960's). One is fantastic with a :p strong flush. The other one is so weak and sluggish :(
    As I am ill, it is quite difficult for me to bend down for any length of time. Someone mentioned that they had heard that perhaps the reason for this very weak flush is that the holes around the rim of the top of the toilet are blocked, and suggested that I should use a safety pin :eek:? And unblock each one! Could this be the solution? :rolleyes: And if yes, is there any easier way to physically do this > myself (aside from hiring a plumber!)? i.e. if I would use an old toothbrush dipped in bleach... or.. :confused:
    I appreciate any better suggestions, opinions, advice on finding a way to obtain a better, stronger flush, (and if at all possible - "miraculously" using more natural products? As my son has allergies etc.)
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #2

    Dec 6, 2009, 01:26 PM

    I have one that most repair plumbers miss.. Look down at the bottom of the bowl. If there is a small hole, then that is a jet that starts the syphon action. If it's clogged the water will just swirl around and slowly go down leaving solids behind. Take your finger,(UGH! ) and run it around the inside of the opening. Over the years minerals build up and cut down on the syphon (flush) action. If it is rough or you feel build up, take a table knife and put a bend in it to get around the curve in the bowl and chip and scrap it clear. Next take a coathanger and clear out the holes around the rim. They start the swirling action. And last, check the water level in the tank. It should be 1/2" below the top of the over flow tube. And speaking of the overflow tube, Make sure the small 1/8" tube from the ballcock to the white overflow tube is connected so it discharges in it and that it's flowing when the ballcock fills. This is what raises the water level in the bowl. For a good solid flush they all have to work together. Hope this helps and thank you for rating my reply.. Tom
    violet0019's Avatar
    violet0019 Posts: 208, Reputation: 9
    Full Member
     
    #3

    Dec 6, 2009, 06:43 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by speedball1 View Post
    I have one that most repair plumbers miss.. Look down at the bottom of the bowl. If there is a small hole, then that is a jet that starts the syphon action. If it's clogged the water will just swirl around and slowly go down leaving solids behind. Take your finger,(UGH!!) and run it around the inside of the opening. Over the years minerals build up and cut down on the syphon (flush) action. If it is rough or you feel build up, take a table knife and put a bend in it to get around the curve in the bowl and chip and scrap it clear. Next take a coathanger and clear out the holes around the rim. They start the swirling action. And last, check the water level in the tank. It should be 1/2" below the top of the over flow tube. And speaking of the overflow tube, Make sure the small 1/8" tube from the ballcock to the white overflow tube is connected so it discharges in it and that it's flowing when the ballcock fills. This is what raises the water level in the bowl. For a good solid flush they all have to work together. Hope this helps and thank you for rating my reply.. Tom
    Thank you for your instructions! :eek: Can you please advise re the coathanger step - any tricks on what is the easiest way to use it, i.e. do I need to bend it a certain way >how? At what angle? >at the curved end... or.. :eek: And the "small hole, then that is a jet that starts the syphon action." >> will your instructions on using a knife leave any permanent scratches at the bottom of the bowl? :confused:

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