[plug]

I have a 2000 Civic that has died twice while running in the last 6 months. First time I put in a new coil and it ran fine. The second time it quit I have no spark, and I have fuel.

I have replaced the:

Distributor
ECM
Crank Position Sensor
Plugs, Wires, Cap & Rotor

There is no spark when it cranks. I have put a test light on the plug wire. When I turn the ignition on the number II position, the CEL light goes off after 2 seconds, I can hear a click and the fuel pump runs, another click and it goes off. I have checked most of the fuses and all are good.

At this point I am really frustrated. I read some of the threads on this website and tried a few things. I did not see a reply on what action to take if the CEL light goes off after 2 seconds and the fuel pump runs. I don't think it is the ECM, and I'm not sure I can do the K test.

I think it may be the:

Main relay (I'm not even sure where it is)

Map Sensor

Can anyone help me out and shed some light on this.

I thank you in advance.

Plug

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Was the distributor made by Honda? We have had many problems from new aftermarket distributors for Hondas. If you feel the distributor housing is fine, I'd recommend changing the Ignition Control Module, being sure to apply the heat transfer compound:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

It's definitely a distributor-related problem. It is not related to the ECM, since the CEL comes on and goes off normally.

[plug]

I tried 2 different remanufactured distributors from Advance Auto. Then I put in a used Honda distribututor from a salvage yard that they said it came out of a running vehicle. I tried to purchase individual parts like pick up coil from advance, but they said you have to purchase the whole distributor.

How about the ignition switch?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I bought an aftermarket ICM for my 1993 Civic from Advance Auto Parts. You can check online what they offer. Your description doesn't sound like an ignition switch problem at all. Since you have a Honda distributor housing, I would simply buy a new ICM and install it. ICMs are probably the most problematic part on Hondas of your generation. I'd be surprised if it didn't solve your problem.

[lilsnell8]

I had this same thing happen on my godsisters car and it ended up being the timing belt so like me I fiddled around with all those parts and I had to change the timing belt... exact same car (o some ignition parts on the lx and ex are diff too)

[plug]

The timing belt was changed also.

[plug]

Where is the ignition control module located? Is it inside the distributor?

If I have replaced the distrbutor, does that mean I have replaced the module as well?

Thanks

[TxGreaseMonkey]

The ICM, inside the used Honda distributor, is likely bad. Follow the directions I provided.

[plug]

Right now I have a remanufactured Advance Auto distributor in the car. Would the ICM be bad in that also?

I called Advance, they told me they do not list a ICM, they called it a Ignition Spark Module.

Is that the same thing? It lists for $97.00.

Thanks.

[plug]

Changed the ICM. Still no spark.

What else could it be?

What should I check Next?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing.

. Check all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multi-meter.

. Tachometer Test. Disconnect tachometer wire (if equipped). A shorted tachometer can prevent the vehicle from starting. The blue wire going to the Ignition Control Module (igniter) should be unfastened. Try starting the car again. If it starts, the problem is with the tachometer.

. Power to Distributor Test. Turn ignition OFF. Disconnect the 2-P connector from the distributor. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between BLK/YEL (+) terminal and body ground. There should be 12+ volts read. If not, repair open in BLK/YEL wire between the 2-P connector and ignition switch.

[plug]

Cleaned ECM ground at thermostat.

No tach.

Checked for voltage at connector for yellow/black wire. Have voltage.

Put test light on + and - terminals on coil. Had voltage at both terminals.

Put test light on output of coil and turned motor over. No light, no volts.

What do I check next?

Should there be voltage on negative lead on the coil?


Thank you.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I would return the distributor to Advance Auto and tell them it doesn't work.

[plug]

I took the distributor back to Advance.

Using my stock Honda distrib, I bought a new ICM and installed it.

What else could it be?

Thanks.

[plug]

I also bought a used stock Honda distributor (supposedly out of a running car) and tried that. Still no spark. I changed the ECM also.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Don't know anything else to suggest.

[plug]

How do I check for a bad coil?