Nordyne Furnace Model # L1RA 045N-08A. Blower runs constantly, whether the thermostat is on; no flame, no ignition, no heat. Have to unplug furnace to stop the blower. Red status light just steadily blinks on and off, not in a particular cadence. HELP! What do we do? Unit is still under warranty.
Thanks

Unit is still under warranty.

By all means call the company back that did the install and have them fix it under warranty. You should not have to mess with it since you paid them to do the job.

Have the same problem but my furnace is not under warranty anymore.
hvac1000 can you help what is wrong, please ?
Red light is blinking just one time constantly.
No flame, blower is running all the time, even if thermostat is OFF.

It is very difficult to follow a add on post to someone else's thread so start your own thread.

What really compounds the issue is NO Brand OR Exact Model number posted for your problem.

There are 5,372 different brands and model numbers for furnaces made over the years. Mt crystal ball is broken and I just cannot tell exactly what your exact brand and model number is from here until I get that dag gone crystal ball fixed. Most furnaces are different and some have different problems.

Yes, you have right. I'm sorry. I should post it earlier, was to sleepy (2am in the morning stopped working).
So the furnace is: Case is Westinghouse but inside says NORDYNE, model:
L1RA 108C-16B
I found under hood this red light status blinking one time constantly.
Found also over this help website that might be a problem with flame sensor. Is it right ?
Will try to find out this flame sensor location in next minutes.
Right now I'm changing t-stat.
Will keep you posted.

No, it is not t-stat. Once I turn on the switch which is by the furnace. Blower starts running without fire (just air).
Will try to find this flame sensor.

http://www.nordyne.com/Literature/020B.pdf

http://www.grandaireac.com/products/...PL_708311g.pdf

See page 20. For fault codes.

http://www.batchelorsupply.com/Nordy...as%20furn).pdf

What flame sensors look like examples.

I finally found it. I'm so glad your are online.
It is the switch or ignition switch. Rounded "thing" from which is going this rubber pipe. I have opened this and looks like inside there is very tiny rubber membrain which is broken.
Here is the part number:
MPL-9300-V-0.55-DEACT-N/O-VS
632365
DC2104 COSTA RICA 4236
You think I can by it somewhere on the ground not over the internet. It's 32 F outside.

http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/85441/dsc01004.1.jpg
http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/85441/dsc01005.jpg
http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/85441/dsc01006.jpg

You think this might cause the problem ?

YEP

632365 Is the Nordyne part number. Make sure you get the correct one since the pressures they work under are different on many units. And no there is no way around the safe operation of the furnace without this device. I just thought I would answer before you might ask.

Where do you think I can find it ? So it can work today (sunday). Or the only one way is online ?
Thank you very much for your help.

PS I have used a piece of cheap thin electric tape and a VERY small amount of super glue to do a temp repair before. Just a thought.

Bad news: I fixed the membrain with piece of tape and superglue but fire doesn't show up.
Blower runs but no fire. Have cleaned flame sensor as well. You think by fixing this membrain is not enough ? Needs to be new ?

Well you are going to have to replace the part anyway since the fix is jut temporary. Just it out of the circuit for a test.

Well, I called for local technician. We will se how much he is going to to charge me for Sunday emegrency. Hope he has one in his truck.
So this is the only one problem why my burner doesn't come out ?
Red light still blinking one time...
I don't want to be overcharged...

The pressure switch is damaged and needs to be replaced. Turn power off to furnace to reset and try with a jumper between the wires on the pressure switch. This will test the furnace and see if it will work with out the defective pressure switch installed. You cannot run the furnace for any length of time with the wires for the switch jumpered. This is for test purposes only. Monday will be less expensive for sure. Sunday rates are higher than during to week.

Nope. Short wired doesn't help at all. No fire after 25 seconds (I was scared to run longer - should I try for longer time and wait for fire ?)
Even if it's shortened - still red light blinking.

The limit circuit is probably open. Look for a round small disc control and see if it has a reset button in the center. If so push it in and try to run the furnace again. If this does not work then you will need service to figure it out and to replace the other part.

I found two small discs with reset buttons. One is above the burner another under. Both of them has reset buttons but one looks like couldn't be resetted. Button is hard to press.
I did this procedure still nothing...

The one hard to press could be defective. If you have a meter you can check it or here again jump them out of the circuit on a temporary basis only to test..

Technician came in. He is here and said the control panel (motherboard) needs to be replaced and pressure switch (like I told him).
I don't understand if there is any reason to replace the board ? Could be burned by my jumper on switch like you told me ?
Fat pig wants to rip me off on $150 :/
Went back to supply warehouse to find exact model numer of the switch (have tried 2 different ones and still doesn't go on... )

I just went by the number of flashes you posted and the legend for your furnace. Jumping does not hurt circuit boards of components as long as it was done properly.
Sometimes other components/sections are defective besides what the flash indicates but not often.

Hi, sorry for a break with infos.
Technician just replaced my pressure switch, he changed some sensor which goes straight into the duct (two long legs and sensor on the end).
He also mentioned that chimney liner needs to be done. Probably I have furnace duct connected into brick chimney without liner inside. He said it may cause later problems with the furnace.

I figured it was the pressure switch but the sensor I had no idea. Better git the chimney fixed pronto. Good luck.

You have helped me a lot - I'm going to rate you right now :)

It is amazing how this user can be helpful. Thank you very much.

Could you tell me how much would cost installation of new furnace liner inside the chimney and connect it ?
Basement, first floor, second floor, roof.
About 25 feet.

I am sorry but I would not even want to guess, The material cost and labor is all set locally so the prices will be different all over the country. Sorry. Get at least 2 estimates.