Ask Me Help Desk - New $6,000 tempstar won't work

Your unit is 4 tons . It is too big for 2000 sq. Ft. That is why it does not cool,and why it is too humid. See manf. Spec for 2,000 sq. Ft.

This post is over a year old. LOL

I hate to say this, but after saving for a year or two, we wanted a new ac unit. Living in az, its mandatory. We were recommended a tempstar. I have except for year one, had to repair this unit. 5 condenser motors, 1 blower motor, a host of contactors and other parts, the thermostat control board, etc. 300-400$ each time, for 10 yrs. I would never buy a tempstar again, nor take it if it were free. The old goetl that I took off was working fine, and my neighbors still have theirs, never doing a repair while my "new unit" is a maintenance DOG.

Hi I am a HVAC Tech also
Ask the guy if the pressure on his gages match in PSIG on the low and the high side if they don't and one is lower then the other and won't pump up
then most likley your TXV Valve is not working properly. When dealing with R410A you have steps you must do to install a unit correctly I always use heat sinks
"ie Wet Wrags" and I wrap them around the TXV Valve when brazing the line set to the coil and the condenser it helps keep the high heat from damaging the bulb that is clamped to the suction side line in the coil. The reason I say this is because there is only so much that can be wrong in this case it is only on the cooling stage the heater is not the issue so stop messing with the blower speeds have the guy check to see if any lines are kinked off and try the TXV Valve if the valve is locked in the opened or closed position no cooling will happen. You will know this if your gages are not correct because one will not pump up over 100-150 psig if so change the txv valve and run again. That should fix the problem. Last time I checked they were around $190.00 also before you go out and buy a txv valve do this first.
check your wires from heater to thermostat
Red= Power
White= Heat
Yellow = Cooling
Green = Fan
Blue = Common Ground
They should match
if installing a two stage system don't forget the secound stage wire connections
next
check that you have 27 volts going to the condenser
it should be a
red wire
and a
white wire
attached to the main board red wire goes to the y and the white goes to the c on the board
and the other side of the red and white wire goes to the condenser capasitor " if installing a two stage system there will be 3 wires to the board and condensor"
next
don't forget to pump down the line set before letting out the juice very important
you must pull down three times to get out any moisture in line set
you have to bring system down to 500 microns or under
fill lines with dry nitrogen to 150 psig let sit 10 to 15 min then start your
1st pull down 1500 Microns
fill dry nitrogen 150 PSIG
2nd pull down 1500 Microns
fill dry nitrogen 150 PSIG
3rd and final pull down 500 Microns or below
this takes all the moisture out of line set
now you can let out the juice
all this should be checked and done before system start up
if all that was done already
next
make sure condenser comes on and you here the line set fill with fluid
then blower at heater should turn on.
next
if all wires are correct then that rules out any wire issue all connections must be tight
now onto gages
the pressure range usually on a R410A 4Ton system range from 120 - 150 PSIG on the low side and 350 to 400 PSIG on the high side this should be perfect for a 50 foot line set.
most of the time the manufacture sends all condensors out full of refrigerant for a 25 to 50 foot line set
don't put any more refrigerant in condenser you will over charge unit
next
after checking your gages and if all is OK then you should check for kinks in line set
if none are found
next
check to see if the coil is freezing up with ice with new systems you can take the front panel off and look inside
if no ice then see if the guy got the paper work out of the coil before installing it.

I think that's about it on setting up a R410A System for now its getting late

but let me leave your HVAC Guy a thought
if line is cleaned and juice is flowing through it where does it go but to the coil and the TXV Valve
and if gages are not right and you fill some puron in it and it still don't work your question should be answered by now
does the compressor come on and do you here the juice flowing through the line set to the coil then it should leed you to the What "TXV Valve"

Let me know if this helped

This post is over two years old... and people are still trying to help. LOL

Hey girl you shpuld have this guy/company take back this unit. There is a lemon law that states that after 5 vist the unit should be replace with a new one or you can get your money back.if it was me i will get my money back and call sears the do good work.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SUPERNYC

HEY GIRL YOU SHPULD HAVE THIS GUY/COMPANY TAKE BACK THIS UNIT. THEIR IS A LEMON LAW THAT STATES THAT AFTER 5 VIST THE UNIT SHOULD BE REPLACE WITH A NEW ONE OR YOU CAN GET YOUR MONEY BACK.IF IT WAS ME I WILL GET MY MONEY BACK AND CALL SEARS THE DO GOOD WORK.

This post is over 2 years old,, waisting the skin off your typing finger

LOL I guess no one reads.

I am also having major trouble with TEMPSTAR - did you ever get your issue resolved? What did you do?
If not - I'd like to start some action against TEMPSTAR.

I have a tempstar 2 stage furnace, the blower always starts in low speed and then goes into high speed right away. The instructions state the unit should heat the house in low speed for 12 minutes and if heat is still needed, it would go to high speed. The dip switch has three switches. The #1 & #3 is off and #2 is on.

Why doesn' it heat in low speed for 12 minutes?
Thank you