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I am wanting install an Elektromec Fan motor into my cooker hood. It has six wires coming out :brown/blue/white/red/orange/black. I need to know what each of these wires does?(in plain simple English!). I believe it has three speeds and would fit in a BoschDKE995EGB Cooker hood or a Neff. The model no is EGBR1136.1CL.F 6.3uf’
I don’t my paying providing the information resolves my problem!
Colin
Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: Notes on the Troubleshooting and Repair of Small Household Appliances and Power Tools
Note section 14.12
There will likely be a common, high, low, medium
and two leads for a capacitor
Two of the colors will likely have zero ohms. One will go to the external capacitor.
The trouble will be, identifying the other side of the cap and the speed windings. But the cap winding should be identifyable with the resistance matrix.
If you can post that, then we ought to be able to determine the color code. Using a lamp in series will prevent damage when doing the final test.
Hi
Thank you for your reply. There is no visible capacitor and I wondered if the was a starter winding built in. I have had it running but only slowly and it developes a cooking smell! (which is not bacon! ) To fit both Neff & Bosch I would have thought it could be standard but nobody seems to know. I am unable to test as I write but will do so at the first opportunity
Colin
The 6.3 uf is the value of a capacitor. A 6UF cap is located here: CeilingFanParts.com - Switchco Products - 2-Wire Capacitors
Capacitors are always external. They need to be rated for an AC voltage.
This may help. It may not: Ceiling Fand wiring Diagrams
Tuff finding info on this, appear to be 3 speed. Can you get the control? At the end of the model number it says "6.3uF" which usually means 6.3 micro farads(The Value of the Capacitor)The capacitor(if it does use one) needs to be rated for the voltage or higher.
Just a wild guess, and wouldn't try yet, could be something like blue and brown to capacitor, white to neutral, and red, orange and black for the speeds? It really bites that some common information is not more easily available.
I checked out the fan diagrams link provide by KISS, The reverse switch they show is the
L,1,2,3 type switch. Usually on fans they use a double pole double throw switch which swaps 2 wires.
Here are Wiring Readings
Meter set to 200 ohms
+ on Brown - on Blue = Flash reading only
+ on Brown - on Black = 135.2
+ on Brown - on Red = 21.9
+ on Brown - on orange =172.4
+ on Brown - White =193.8
Blue was split to feed two points
I understand motors to a degree, was always curious how to determine where to apply voltage to a motor to operate, if 2 speed, and for reverse, and for dual or multiple voltage,
Motor guys could say out of their head, The post he provided may answer my questions.
I think he or other motor person needs these resistance measurments:
Brown to: Blue, white, red, orange, and black.
Blue to: White, red, orange, and black.
White to: Red, orange, and black
Red to Orange than Black. Then
Resistance between Orange and Black.
ALL readings are important. If I get a chance, or no one answers, I will decypher.
I bet KISS could get it, But needs all above resistance readings.
I just noticed you mentioned a "Flash Reading". With resistance you have a resistance, a short, or open (infinity). If it was an Analog meter on a Capacitor, and you touched leads needle would kick over the slowly drift back. A digital meter may give a "flash reading"(eratic?)you describe?
Strat:
The guy with the diagrams has a cryptic style. He states: Reversing switch truth table (all types described here, yellow switches)
1 (Forward):L to 1 , 2 to 3
2 (Reverse):L to 3 , 2 to 1
Which swaps wires. Just not obvious.
Colinn:
I need the matrix. Polarity doesn't matter.
Colors on x axis, Colors on y axis, Resistances between the colors.
If two colors;
------wht blk
blk 10 0
what 0 10
Just fill in the complete table.
Here is the matrix
Brown Blue Black Red Orange White
Brown Flash 134.3 21.7 171.5 192.6
Blue Flash 94.9 Flash 58.3 36.6
Black 135.2 94.9 113 37.5 59
Red 21.9 Flash 113 150 171
Orange 172.4 58.5 37.6 150 22.4
White 193.8 36.6 59.1 171.5 22.4
Hope it is OK
Cheers
Colin
Brown Blue Black Red Orange White
Brown Flash 134.3 21.7 171.5 192.6
Blue Flash 94.9 Flash 58.3 36.6
Black 135.2 94.9 113 37.5 59
Red 21.9 Flash 113 150 171
Orange 172.4 58.5 37.6 150 22.4
White 193.8 36.6 59.1 171.5 22.4
Second attempt
Colin
Colin:
Something is wrong.
White-White must be zero
Red to Red must be zero
Orange to Orange must be zero
etc.
And it has to be consistent.
What does flash mean? Are you using auto-range?
What happens when you just short the leads of the meter together?
Well, actually zero doesn't exist, but it has to be a small number like <0.6 or so.
Something may be wrong with your leads, the connections or the meter. You can hold the wires to the probes with your fingers. The resistance of the body won't matter.
I loaded the table into Excel.
didyou get my poor effort of a matrix?
Kiss, I think he was measuring white, red and orange to each of the other wires.
Colin, The reason a color was dropped after each color was because the resistance test has been done already. Once brown was measured for resistance between the others, then when you get to blue, you don't have to measure to brown, it should be the same as
Brown to blue.
What kind of Meter(Analog or digital?) Explain Flash.
Kiss, I would have expected some open readings, unless motor was controlled by taps?
Brown Blue Black Red Orange White
Brown Flash 134.3 21.7 171.5 192.6
Blue Flash 0 94.9 Flash 58.3 36.6
Black 135.2 94.9 0 113 37.5 59
Red 21.9 Flash 113 0 150 171
Orange 172.4 58.5 37.6 150 0 22.4
White 193.8 36.6 59.1 171.5 22.4 0
Using digital meter set at 200ohns
Flash means a figure briefly appears and meter goes back to 1
Touching the probes together reads 01.0
Let's go with:
White is common
Orange Hi
Blue Medium
Black Low
Capacitor between Red and Brown
Put a light bulb in series with the motor and use the low speed. Try something like 25 watt. If there are any ratings on the nameplate like HP or watts, post that and I might change the light bulb wattage.
How am I wiring the capacitor in? I don't know! Sorry So I am sayng from the mains is what?
The capacitor has two leads and is non-polorized.
Connect one end to Red and the other lead to Brown.
To make the motor run at low speed:
Cap the orange wire and the blue wire. Meaning they go nowhere.
Connect Hot (Black) to a 25 W lamp and the other end of the lamp to Black (motor) for testing.
Connect Neutral (White) to White (motor)
The only light bulb I can lay my hands on is 100w.
The motor is rated at 200w
In the UK neutral is usually blue?
Colin
The 100 W ought to be fine for the low speed. The light might light a little, but the fan should spin.
The idea here is the light bulb is a current dependent resistor. The idea here is if there is a short, the light bulb glows and the current is limited to the wattage of the light lbulb. It's an old trick. It basically prevents you from letting out the "magic smoke" so to speak.
Once you let out the "magic smoke" the device ceases to function, therefore magic smoke is the reason why electronics actually work. <G>.
I am still slightly confused I am feeding mains 230v Live and neutral You say the neutral goes to white! The live goes to brown where is the rd connected.
When I collected this motor there were red/blue/white/orange /black in that order on a connector plug. Then there were two wires brown / blue separate from the other but the blue wire had a branch off to the connector plug and they had spade connectors on! Do you think these were meant to go to a separate capacitor and should I have one now for the suggeted wirng?
Gee, I wish you would have said that earlier.
Telling me you were in the UK would have helped too
OK, I'm confused too. The spade terminals are brown and blue. Yes/No?
If this is the case, then these are extremely likely the leads for the capacitor. You Definitely need one. Capacitors come with spade terminals.
Many times one side of the cap goes to the mains.
Can I assume that there are two wires on one pin of this connector?
One end of the spade terminal (color) goes to what other wire color (motor) of the connector?
I am really sory I did not intend to mislead you.There were two wires going to the blue. Don't ask me why but I thought the white was for the fast speed. After tomorrow I am away for two weeks and may not have access to a computer but I will buy a 6.3uf (that's what is written on the motor) capacitor on my journeys. The good thing is I won't need an extractor fan whilst I am away .
Regards
Colin
So, that makes Brown to one side of the cap
Blue is a main and by color code, it is a Neutral.
Power gets applied to one of the three leads for each speed.
So, that makes Orange high, White medium and Black is low.
If the readings are Black = 134 Orange = 175 White = 192\Why is orange the fast rather than the whites? Just curious!
Colin
Forget my last message. You are correct, orange is the middle speed according to the control box!! I now feel confident we have cracked it thanks to your thought provoking contribution.
The problem is mine in failing to recognise there was a cpacitor required in the first place. I don't know if I will be able to get a capacitor before I go away for two weeks, but I assure you I will let you know the result in two weekes time.
Thank you very very much for your help, without it I would still be scratching my head.
I feel sure it will now work correctly.
Thanks again,
Colin
I don't like guessing with motors.
What motor was in the cooking hood originally? Where did you get the new motor from?
Hi
Back again thought I would call in at my local elecrical wholesaler and pick up a 6.3uf capacitor! Wrong!! He tells me that I may need a 400v capacitor? Not a 240v that I asked for. The voltage is 240v and 200W and it says 6.3uf on the motor, what am I looking for?
It's not a bad idea to have a higher value capacitor than the supply voltage. I know in the US fans generally have 230v capacitors despite the supply being 120v. I don't remember the reason. Someone else here may know more.
Higher voltage is a good thing. Basically 230 V is about 322 V peak to peak if my math is right and that adds some sort of safety margin. There are problems using a 1000 V cap to replace a 16 V cap, but that beyond the scope of this discussion. The 400 V cap is fine and desirable.
FWIW: Capacitors in parallel add Ct=C1+C2+... Cn and capacitors in series use the formula 1/Ct= 1/C1+1/C2+... 1/Cn)
KISS, I am not trying to be arrogant, and I did not read this whole thread, but you are aware the OP is in the UK, aren't you.Quote:
Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid
I knew this from the original post and have kept away because of it.
Yep, found that out eventually. That would have helped if I had found out earlier in the thread. There was some new information as to which wires had fastons, so I'm confident of the last wiring determination.
It should be required on this site that you give your country of origin when you post. I too am not good with UK electrical questions.
True, this should apply to all message boards.Quote:
Originally Posted by ceilingfanrepair
I am not good either. I am lost after brown=hot and blue=neutral.
The thought rarely even occurs to me that someone is posting from outside the US.
With as many posts as you have I am surprised. I see this all the time on other boards.Quote:
Originally Posted by ceilingfanrepair
I know, it just rarely crosses my mind. I always assume that everyone else out there is exactly like me
I am awaiting delivery of 6.3 cap on Thursday, I cannot thank enough the numerous and varied contributors to my query from the UK, Thank you all!
I will post the final (I hope) results this weekend.
Colin
Hi Evertbody
Good news Fan now running on 3 speeds for those interested the final wiring config is as follows: Black =Fast speed. Orange = Medium speed. Red = Neutral. White = Slow speed. Blue & Brown to a 4uf capacitor.
Once again thank you to all contributors. I hope I will be able to assist someone in the not too distant future
Colin UK
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